Describe Your Perfect......

JK Knives

JK Knives

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All around outdoors knife. (I refuse to call them "bushcraft knives"). Blade length, shape, thickness, whatever. I`m looking to come up with some new designs, and always welcome input from you all.
 
JK Knives said:
All around outdoors knife. (I refuse to call them "bushcraft knives"). Blade length, shape, thickness, whatever. I`m looking to come up with some new designs, and always welcome input from you all.
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It would be hard to improve on some of your existing knives. My preference is for a:

4" to 5" blade
full tang
no less than 1/8" thick but 3/16" is best
drop point (1st choice) or a spear point
scandi grind to keep the thickness or a full flat grind
I like a section of flat on the spine with some file work for finger control
Don't care about a pronounced choil if there is a finger rest in the handle. Actually I prefer no file work on the choil.
A lanyard hole (or 2)
I prefer wood scales to other materials but I can see the appeal of some man made choices - Kraton and linen micarta are great.

Here are some of yours that I think are excellent "all around outdoors knives" - though admittedly with some style diversion from my list :)
 
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4" spear point blade
Flat or high sabre grind
1/8" thick w/lanyard hole
No choil
Heavily coated handle material that won't absorb water.
Carbon steel blade
everything else I can work around.
 
Rule Number Nine.
You could change the handle to match the customer's taste/handsize but the blade shape and size are, in my never humble opinion, perfect.

I could see other mods such as thumb ramps or choils if a customer wants them. The basic design leaves a lot of room for customization.
 
4 1/4" Blade(drop point)
4 3/4" handle
9/64" thick
1 1/8" at the widest point
O1 Tool steel
contoured straight grain desert ironwood
black,orange,black liners
aluminum loveless bolts and lanyard tube(weight saving)
thin tapered tang(weight saving)
convex edge(weight saving) No matter what the hype is at the moment, I'll put my convex against any scandi for woods work any day. Plus you said all around knife.
no jimping or finger choils
I live in the mountains and sometimes put on a lot of miles, so a solid but light weight blade is very effective for what I do. I have a very similar blade to this and it only weighs 5.2oz. I can do anything very effectively, from slice tomatoes to baton wood without blinking an eye.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/xydg0yqhyv5ugyc/AABTfnBscDre-1BoT-0Wfaqpa
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/wutshxc322fv4vg/AACjlM03DondeP55D9D2_DzAa
 
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I am always excited if a maker asks for some input.

I 2nd the blades of the above (4th and 5th pictures shows it nicely), a pointy spear point, not so much a Kephart point if that makes sense. 4 to 4 1/4 inch length and 1 inch wide , similar handle length for better control overall. Full thin tapered tang or heavily skeletonized. If tapered than the scales "have to make up for it". Maybe just good quality epoxy with no bolts at all (for weight), if bolts than I then G10/Micarta. A rather oval shape handle with a bit contour, distal scale taper as a "thumb rest" in different holds. round butt (using as a drill with palm on top) and a lanyard hole. Tiny guard (only to know where I am). 52100, A2, O1 or 3V. If scandi grind then 1/8 thick, I'd prefer a heigh zero convex on 5/32 though. Rounded spine (I always use a steel and scraper), no filework for me. I would prefer simple grippy Micarta (Maroon Linen Micarta?), if wood than Desert Ironwood or Cocobolo (less maintenance).
 
Here are my two favorites when they were new. First one is my hands down favorite. I think you know the specs.



I also like this one by BHK, but I don't take it out very much since I got the JK CBK. 4" saber ground blade with convexed edge. 5/32" thick. 4 3/4" micarta handle.



I need to take some dirty knife pics!
 
3 of mine are from you. Phoenix, Rule #9, and JK Original. All have seen a lot of use and I'd trust my life to each.
 
I like a knife
Approx 4" blade
4.5" handle
Fulltang
Straight back or drop point
01 tool steel
3/32 or even thinner and my reason for that is I dont do nearly as much bush craft as I do fine work and food prep, and when I use it right I can still do a lot of heavy work with a thin knife that is still user friendly at camp or in the kitchen. The thick blades as much as Id like to think I need them and love them reality is I dont need or use those knives nearly as much. Just my 2 cents but my needs may vary from other guys Im sure just my perference.
 
I'm not going to very helpful I am afraid, The CBK I bought from you has banished my other knives to the dark confines of the "knife bag" (I do have pity and grab one of them on occasion, just so they don't start hating me). I do agree that a less abrupt point on a spear shaped blade is much preferable to what is found on the classic Kephart. Hell, I don't like the steep curve found on the Mora knives either, I have been known to shorten the blade a little to get rid of some of it. The Rule #9, the Bushlore from Condor, and the BHK pictured above are all good examples.

And rdrogers, I wouldn't mind seeing some pictures of your CBK in its more mature state (used).
 
interesting replies so far, I'm contemplating the idea myself, afraid I don't have many answers but I do like a definite point, simple but contours handle, the Tool has been catching my eye a lot as always :)
 
Well...since you're asking and I happened to recently visited your website trying to find something close to what I think is right for me, the list below is what I'd probably order from a custom maker based my experience with the different knives I own:

- Blade shape: Same as your Rule #9. Order of steel preference 3V,01, A2. Doesn't matter really. I've just been on a 3V kick. All in 58-60 HRC.
- Blade: 4" length, 1" max height, Scandi grind at 25 degrees total. Cutting edge that goes almost to the handle. 1/8" or 3/16" thickness. Preferably 1/8". Squared spine in the middle section only for ferro rod work. I like to use my thumb on the spine at the tip and base to make some push cuts so a rounded spine is more comfortable.
- Handle: 4.5" handle with coke bottle contours that is slightly thicker than a Mora Companion HD handle--enough for a medium cadet golf glove. Excuse my lack of terminology but a tapering at the front of the handle towards the blade to allow a thumb rest on a side grip or a pinch grip for food prep. Rounded butt (pummel?) with a hidden lanyard hole like the GSO Survive! series. Black or white beaded or blasted Micarta for non-slip. Red liners.
- Sheath: Wet-formed leather with a detachable dangler attachment or kydex sheath with leather belt loop attached.

Of course some of this I could do on my own like the spine work and and the wet forming of the sheath, or even custom ordering a kydex sheath, but "perfect" for me entails that I don't have to do anything once I pull it out of the box. If you happen to make a knife similar to this some day, sign me up!
 
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this one
image upload free

easy to sharpen, long enuf, short enuf (5" blade) It can fillet, it can slice, it can carve wood, it can baton, it is easy to carry, it is my perfect outdoor knife for general use.
 
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For me, the specs would be something along these lines.
-1095 steel
-4 Inch blade length
-8 or 8.25 inch overall length
-0.125 Inch thickness
-1.25 Inch blade width
-FFG
-Spearpoint
-No choil or jimping
-Handle shape that of the Michigan Trail Knife
-Micarta
 
This one would do nicely...

mqqn said:
Hi folks -

This evening I was delighted to find a package from Mokena, and inside was my new Mack Designed Rule Number 9!!

I asked John to make this knife with his torched oak treatment, so that I have a classic design from one of my knife friends (Mack) with a classic treatment from John.

John used to do a lot more torched oak, and I think he does torched oak better than anyone!

This particular knife has a couple of changes from Mack's standard design.

I asked John to round the spine and delete the thumb-serrations. I also ask John to grind the choil all the way down to the handle so that the blade was sharpened all the way with no unsharpened choil area.

I think he did an outstanding job, and the sheath supplied is the best example I have in terms of finish from the JK Shops - the stuff just keeps getting better and better!!

I took some quick pictures this evening for my friends here -

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Note the black liners -
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Just look at that sheath!

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Perfect grinds as usual!

DSC_7694.JPG


Thanks again John for a great knife, and Mack for a great design!

best
mqqn
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