Desert Ironwood ?

B

blackfly

Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
49
How do those who use desert ironwood work it up from raw?
Do you use a metal bandsaw or can a wood bandsaw be used maybe with a bimetal blade?
I have some that was lugged from Arizona just over 40 years ago and I would like to get it knocked into useable pieces for some knives.

Thank you.

blackfly
 
Hold your nose, It's stinky stuff!:barf:

I just had some cut. I don't think it was anything but a regular wood blade
on a quality wood cutting band saw.
 
If you're going to be cutting a lot of it I'd recommend a bi-metal blade on a wood saw. If it's just a few cuts you'll be fine with a regular blade.

No matter how you cut/grind it, WEAR A RESPIRATOR! A good bit of what makes ironwood so hard is that it sucks up silicates from the sand as it's growing. When you let those loose and breathe them in, they stay in your lungs and over time can cause silicosis. For that matter, when you grind and break down the abrasives on your belts the same thing happens. Seeing as it's no fun to slowly drown in your own juices, I'd recommend a respirator for all cutting/grinding operations.

-d
 
To cut slabs use a wide blade about 3/8 to 1/2" and a hook tooth blade with 4-6 tpi. I cut one side as flat as possible and use that to rest on the table while I cut it into usable slabs. If the first cut is not flat us a file to remove any high spots. Use a felt pen and ruler to make a guideline down log. Try to stay on the line otherwise you will have alot of sanding to make flat.
 
Thanks to all who bothered to answer and try to help me out here.

So a 6 tpi, 1/2 inch bimetal blade it is. I have one fairly large piece about 10 x 24 inches that would be a real bear to try to run through the saw so I have been re-doing a carriage for holding the log that I use for working up burls and any wood in the round. Feel kinda like a kid at xmas waiting to see what's inside when it's opened up. Trying to go easy here and not just start making sawdust because even the shorter pieces contain both burl and straighter grain in them and I don't want to mess up what might be the best figure by slicing through it.

I've worked with a number of other "exotics" on different projects and I hear loud and clear what your saying about suiting up and wearing a respirator.
I use tyvex coveralls that get some custom tailoring done with masking tape and if all goes well they will last quite a while.
Learned a long time ago working with glass and resin that the best way to not have any kind of problems when working a materials that might cause a reaction is to keep it off you the best you can and to working as clean as possible. I have been lucky in that I've yet to have a problem while some around me did and in some extreme cases they had to give up a job because of the materials used. I also learned what it is to become "sensitized" as well where what doesn't bother you today may bother you down the road if you work with it a lot.

btboone, I really like your ring work on your site. You seem to have a tasteful eye for a ring and the stone setting that's shown is really well done which in some of those materials must be a chore.

patrick, nice iron on your site as well and I really like the two piece set and your loop sheaths.

Thanks again and I will report back with what I find down in the depths of this stuff.

blackfly
 
That's good info folks! I got a bunch from Don a few weeks ago and have been itching to start working with it. I ALWAYS wear a respirator anyway but now I have a better idea what to expect.
-Mark
 
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