Design Critique if you're bored

oic0

oic0

Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
368
Its cold outside, my tools are outside, every time I go out I end up turning around and going back inside... but I still sit at work all day wanting to make a knife lol. Anyhow, I doodled a potential design for my next attempt and am open to any changes that people think would improve the design.

The bottom of the handle, I'm sorta leaning more towards a chunk of brass down there instead of the bare tang in my drawing. Also the handle material is a generic wood texture, I plan on using some compressed dark bamboo floor tile for scales. 25 cents at lowes so I figured id give it a shot.

2dlkcag.jpg
 
I would test the bamboo a bit before making an actual knife.

You didn't give any specs as to the intended use and sizes, but the design looks OK. I would just take the handle material to the end without any exposed tang or butt cap. Also, you will have to round off that pointed butt tip or it will eat your hand. I think that canvas Micarta and Corby bolts would work well with this blade.
 
Advice applied. I will test the flooring stuff. I'll grind a piece to get past the surface layer and see how it holds up to abuse and moisture. It kinda looks like pressed together bamboo layers with some sort of binder. Solid all the way through.

I guess this would be a skinner or bush craft? I just enjoy making things but rarely think far enough head to have a purpose in mind. I guess I should work on that lol.

ma82lw.jpg
 
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Looks like a nice practical, makeable design. How thick do you plan the blade to be, what grind, etc.? A short grind like that might be best done hollow, else I'd raise it up a bit if doing flat grinds on average stock for a knife that (assumed) size.
 
0.187 thick. All I've got the skill and equipment for is scandi, flat grind, and convex. Hate to admit it but part of the logic behind the design is that I can for the most part avoid a plunge line. I need to practice them, I don't usually get them perfect, but I could take it to full flat and hope for the best. If I don't get it perfect this design should hide it pretty well and its not like I'm selling it.
 
I like it, but for some reason as I look at the shape, I keep seeing it with the spine cut out lik a very large clip. Basically take the section of curve from the top of the grind to the front of the scales and invert it. Sort of a sharpfinger-esque style, I think it will help balance the shape better between large unused area above the grind and the handle. I like the visual balance to be close to a physical balance point and there is a lot of mass out front on that desgn.

Personal opinion only. Its worth no more than $0.02.


-Xander
 
fast14riot said:
I like it, but for some reason as I look at the shape, I keep seeing it with the spine cut out lik a very large clip. Basically take the section of curve from the top of the grind to the front of the scales and invert it. Sort of a sharpfinger-esque style, I think it will help balance the shape better between large unused area above the grind and the handle. I like the visual balance to be close to a physical balance point and there is a lot of mass out front on that desgn.

Personal opinion only. Its worth no more than $0.02.


-Xander
Click to expand...

Have to raise the point a bit and reshape the handle. I always have liked their design. Use mine a lot. Probably won't make this now but stashing it away in my folder for future use.

2ih6tye.jpg
 
I actually like the first design best as long as you take Stacy's advice and round the underside of the rear handle. I would use that knife in the kitchen. I wouldn't consider it a skinner or bushcraft. Just my 2¢.:)
 
Mooseyard said:
I actually like the first design best as long as you take Stacy's advice and round the underside of the rear handle. I would use that knife in the kitchen. I wouldn't consider it a skinner or bushcraft. Just my 2¢.:)
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Agreed. On this design I actually like the exposed tang, but would round it a touch. I normally don't like exposed tangs on the rear end of a knife, but I think the style of this one just asks for it.

I also, don't think it would make a great skinner with how straight the edge is. Not to say it wouldn't make a nice general purpose knife. It looks nice, just not a good design for a skinner.
 
I will offer my services to test the prototype!! :D I like the exposed tang-this could be pulled off if the knife was large enough. Also-what about a full flat grind?
 
I'm still learning the basics. If I might ask, what makes it look like a kitchen knife? Not that thats a bad thing. I'm just wondering since thats a bit of a trend for me. Things I design often tend to end up looking kitcheny. Then because my brain didn't pocess that it should have been a kitchen knife, its usually too thick or the grind is wrong for real kitchen work lol. One of my last knives (when youve only made a few, each is one of your last lol) even I can admit looks like a kitchen knife... but I made the dang thing thick enough to be used as a crowbar and its a scandi grind. About all it would be good for is mashing the potatoes as you cut them. :rolleyes: . http://i46.tinypic.com/o6mq74.jpg I'm still at the point in my learning when I'm just glad something gets completed, looks like a knife, and can cut something, but still lol.

Is it how far the blade comes down past the handle? that ratio? For instance, if I chop some material off like this does it look more like a general knife, or still kitcheny?


*I left the colorized file with its layers at work. All I have at home is the original silhouette to work with, which would be what I would print to cut out as a stencil anyway.
6z1085.jpg

That would also let me make the handle wider and fit on the same 1.5 inch wide stock (length also increases to 10.5).
 
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oic0 said:
If I might ask, what makes it look like a kitchen knife?
Click to expand...

First is the good knuckle clearance, needed for working on a cutting board. It also has a good belly. It's almost a hybrid of a chopper and a slicer.
 
Ended up making that last one I posted as a silhouette, post 12. Dropped it on the way to quench. restarted the heat treat but the drop still introduced a bit of warp (About 2mm at the tip when held on a flat surface). Trying to straighten it out in the oven with some pennies, clamps, and plates now.
 
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if the first design was a kitchen knife then the handle butt could protect the blade if dropped if it was heavy enough to drop butt down yet be balance well.
 
Just because I hate leaving things unfinished. Here is the pattern I went with and the mostly finished product. I didn't get the grind. One side has a couple more degrees to it than the other making the edge off center. The edge is straight, just off center. Imma finish it and if the wife doesn't claim it, probably give it away to a friend and start over again on the same pattern. It should be great functionally, I'm just not happy with it aesthetically. Also discovered that if you stone wash without lube the dust gets pounded into softer parts of the steal. Gave a pretty cool mottled finish near the spine that faded out towards the hardened edge and was symmetrical side to side, but ended up sanding it off and going again with some oil in there... but might play with that in the future since I of course can't do forge finish without a forge.

jp7dl2.jpg
 
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