Design critique wanted

H

Halbrust

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Aug 8, 2015
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Dimensions on each knife are 4" X 1.5"
Will be made from 1/8" O1 tool steel, professionally heat treated.

Scandi grind on the trailing point and sheepsfoot. Chisel grind on the chisel point.

Still debating on whether I should add a lanyard hole, and whether or not to add handle scales.



Harsh critique wanted. I think they are awesome little designs, but I know they can be better. Help me get them better before I start cutting and grinding.
Your opinion on the lanyard hole and scales is also appreciated.

I am working on a drop point in the same size and theme, just haven't got a profile I'm happy with yet.
 
If Mother Goose and Grim are looking for knives, those will work great!
 
IMO, more handle is needed. Also, on sonething that small, I'd say scales are a must, just make them removeable for those that want it slimmer. Lanyard holes aren't hard, allow more adding if a lanyard to fill out the hand. So yes and yes

But, id only be interested in the chisle, do beyond that its just meh to me
 
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To be frank, those are terrible. Look at some knives online and in The Gallery and The Exchange to see what a knife should look like.

I know you are trying for a necker, but you need to learn knifemaking first.

I would suggest you start with a simple design like a drop point hunter and use 1/8" stock.
 
After I sketched these up I found a posting by John of JK Knives.
He calls his "tin knives" as they are meant to fit in an Altoids tin survival pack. I did some quick Google searches for tin knives and found a few more makers who produce them as well.
These weren't designed as tin knives per say, because I don't do the survival thing. But it is ideally a small two finger grip that can be kept in tight spaces. I was thinking pocket, glove box, or in a sheath around the neck, but an Altoids tin work too.

Of the similar knives I've found none had handle scales. I wondered if there was a reason for this? If there isn't a reason, I'll make some with and some without. I'll let the users decide which is preferable.
I don't like lanyards. I can't think of a situation where I would want a lanyard on my knife. But you're right MIGUY, the lanyard whole should be there, and the user can decide to use it or not.

What about the jimping on the chisel blade? I don't like jimping, but I thought it could actually serve a purpose on this one.
 
It appears you are trying to get 3 items from one piece of 12" long stock...none of these are that appealing. Make a nice drop point hunter and make a keychain bottle opener or widgets from the left over piece of material.
 
Regardless of what you like/dislike. Are you making them for you, or to sell?
 
I have to make at least a cardboard mock up, to know how it feels in my hand, before I begin cutting steel. For making mock ups, I also like the 1/8" and 3/16" beech wood that they sell in art supply stores. I would seriously make models of these before cutting steel.

I looked at your drawings and thought about the dimensions, and I assumed were joking; like you were being funny. You need to give some serious thought to the usefulness of these. Compactness and portability are not everything.
 
From going off your originals these are some quick improvements I made. If you say it is to get 2 fingers grip on it make them able to do that right now it looks like a one finger grip with the way you designed the handles .
These are merely suggestions, hope it helps.

JP
 
For small knives, they are much too wide. They should be half the width.

Here's a small 5" oal knife I made a little while ago. Notice how it looks like a normal knife, only smaller?

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This ^ check out the boker gnome - handle has to be less wide so that you can get decent purchase when using the top of the blade as a thumb ramp.
 
For me, any knife that I make or buy has got to be at least a 3 finger knife. Anything less doesn't have any control or leverage. Justin's modifications help you out a ton IMO.
 
I like the middle design, round off the front ahead of the serrations, and add a little length for grip
 
Design has to follow function. Ask yourself what those serrations would do besides chafe your fingers?

The redrawn chisel ground knife in the middle is a good style....and has been for many years. It is called a Graham Razel. I met Jon and his brother about 15 years ago when they set up next to me at the Southeast Custom Knife Show. They were brand new and introducing a basic simple necker and EDC design then. Today they are a successful company with many designs and styles. Simple as it was, it was out of the box at the time, but still had all the design and function requisites. I can't find the photo right now, but the second link below is the basic shape. The ring was added later. In the beginning it was almost a sharpened bar of steel with a paracord wrap. Later they added a serrated line cutter on the last inch of edge, IIRC.

http://www.grahamknives.com/fixedblades/
http://www.grahamknives.com/fixedblades/
 
Here's a small necker I made from 01 and ebony that's similar to what you're going for. It's actually quite comfortable in the hand. I put an asymmetrical shaping on the handle and can barely get three fingers on it. They pinky just kinda figures itself out. The grip is actually really positive too. It feels okay left handed, but with your right hand it feels like a mold. I really liked it.

42191af3eff717ee5d4588aa79eb89f1.jpg
bfc6f6c61f707e63133664eed36dde3a.jpg
cf6647f20035445e4d3cc57ba9dda149.jpg
 
I agree with all of the critiques. I made one early on similar to the middle one.

Untitled by AccountName2011, on Flickr

It's from a saw blade. 1/16 thick. I did a chisel grind tanto. It's a somewhat useful shop blade, but as others said its not really a good design.
 
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saltyveins said:
I agree with all of the critiques. I made one early on similar to the middle one. (Flickr and my iPad don't like each other anymore, but here is the link https://flic.kr/p/hTFAdJ )

It's from a saw blade. 1/16 thick. I did a chisel grind tanto. It's a somewhat useful shop blade, but as others said its not really a good design.
Click to expand...
The razel ring is interesting on that one. Do you think an extra 1.5" of handle would have done the trick?
 
cchu518 said:
The razel ring is interesting on that one. Do you think an extra 1.5" of handle would have done the trick?
Click to expand...

Hard to say. I ended up making the ID of ring larger, but I never use the hole. But the ring itself sits pretty comfortably in the palm of my hand, and grip mostly in a pinch grip. I use the knife mostly to open plastic packages, cut strips of sandpaper, and to scrape off excess superglue.

ETA: Let me be clear, I am not saying that my knife/design was a good choice...or made a good knife. It is a pretty ugly cutting tool, and probably less effective than a box cutter with a fresh blade in 98% of usages. But hey I made it from one of my grandfathers old saw blades (he died when I was 5 if that gives you an idea of it's age), I get some usage from it, learned a good bit about grinding, and knife design or lack there of. If I had it to do over again, I would have used that piece of steel to make a bottle opener. In fact I may just do that with the other saw blade.
 
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