design feature toughness

I make my plunges sharp. Not 90 degree inside corners sharp, but like a 3/32" or so radius... And I have never had a blade fail at the plunge.
 
I make my plunges sharp. Not 90 degree inside corners sharp, but like a 3/32" or so radius... And I have never had a blade fail at the plunge.

It's true that even a small radius like that helps a great deal. :thumbup: The same goes for the transition between the shoulders and tang of a narrow-tang knife. It's simply a matter of distributing stress, in kind of the same way that an arched doorway is stronger than a rectangular one.

In my former life in the printing/converting industry, I used hundreds of solid rotary dies and cylinders like this:

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I never saw one break that had even a very small radius between the body and the "shafts" on each end that fit into the bearing blocks. I saw several of 'em break that had 90degree inside corners there. Believe me, blowing up a $2K piece of tooling and putting a $30K job on hold while you wait for a new one to come in gets people all kinds of irritated. Point is, it doesn't take as much pressure as you might think to snap off a 2" diameter chunk of hardened tool steel if all the stress is focused on that one tiny, tiny area.
 
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I make my plunges sharp. Not 90 degree inside corners sharp, but like a 3/32" or so radius... And I have never had a blade fail at the plunge.

i hope that people dont think that i am trying to bash on knives that have plung grinds because i am not, my purpose for this thread is to find a way to push the limits of the steel with out having any issues with the design. i want to make a knife that if it fails it will be because the material cant take it any more not because of a thumb ramp or jimping or plung grind.
 
James nailed it when he mentioned "compromise". If I want to build tough, I compromise cutting and slicing ability. Finding that sweet spot is the key. I have a model that has a 5" handle with a 6" blade. It is close to .300" thick at the spine. It will never win any cutting competitions and will probably destroy a perfectly good sushi roll... but it fits my ideal of a "survival" knife perfectly(for the moment). I named it the PIG... Purposefully Inflated Geometry.:p

Hey rick that sounds awesome! Also what kind of resin do you coat your wrapped handles in? And does it stay flexable after cured?
 
I think Scott Gossman already made your knife. :D

This one has an 8 inch blade of 3/16 A2. Full tang, thick all the way to the tip. Convex edge. No weak points here!

 
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