Design help... Tomahawk..

Overmountain

Overmountain

Joined
May 2, 2013
Messages
1,711
Haven't done a 'hawk before. Wanting to take a spin at a nice tactical type hawk. I happen to have a nice piece of 1/2" thick 1084 that I will be rough cutting and forging the blade and such out of. (Drawing them out in essence.) Same for the handle. I will be using a slotted piece of micarta for the handle that will cover the front of the lower grip area, and just scaling the upper section. I want it to be a heavy hawk of two handed size, but useable with one hand. It will be for my own personal fun and games. I have some work related vehicle disabling and entry tasks I want to give it a spin with... I also like the long beard for the old smack and rake method of 'you know what...'

Input, especially from those who have successfully designed a functioning one, much appreciated.

Forgive my drawing skills... not a Matisse...
c45a35595953667852dc3a868b857358.jpg
 

Attachments

  • c45a35595953667852dc3a868b857358.jpg
    c45a35595953667852dc3a868b857358.jpg
    17.9 KB · Views: 3
I like it the only thing i would change is I might make the spike 1 or 2 inches longer if its a tactical hawk but even then its nice.
 
The overall design looks alright. Purely for aesthetics, though, I would thin and lengthen the spike some, and also increase the width of the area between the upper grip area and the beard. The head just looks a little pinched to me, from edge to spike.
 
Thanks. I will slim it out a little up top by stretching the dimensions between face and spike. Then shorten the vertical of the head as well. Should trim it up a bit...
 
What strikes me right off the bat is the beard. It is too thin and pointy in it's tip. It will likely break off easily. If this is just for show and fun, it may not matter, but if you plan on striking hard things with it, I would try and beef up that beard point.
 
I agree with Stacy, that angled point on the profile behind the beard is a terrible stress point. The blade will fail there with heavy use, it needs to be rounded over to distribute the stress up and into the steel behind that opening.

I like the look. You could preserve those lines by rounding over the profile between the arcs and then carving/grinding/filing a depression into the ax head that preserves the look of the arcs and the point. Kind a like a fuller on a knife. Of course you'll need to leave enough material to distribute the stress. See the drawing below.

It would add a few more hours to the project. :)

blade%2520post1.jpg


Barry

Edit: I have never designed an ax or Tomahawk, just looking at it like an engineer.
 
Last edited:
That area is probably strong enough, considering the thickness ( 1/2"). The actual tip of the beard is my main concern. Since it is the extension of the edge, it will be very thin...and pionted. That combination may snap easily.
 
bladsmth said:
That area is probably strong enough, considering the thickness ( 1/2"). The actual tip of the beard is my main concern. Since it is the extension of the edge, it will be very thin...and pionted. That combination may snap easily.
Click to expand...

It would be very thin. Hadn't considered where it was coming from (off the beveled blade face). I will shorten that up and stretch it out from back to front. It isn't just ornamental so it does need to be strong...

For HT, I was thinking differentially with just the face and spikes leaving the body of the head and handle alone. How far back should I go from the blade edge? I want it to be able to absorb impact as well as be able to pry on things. At the same time the rear spike has to be hard enough to retain an edge after puncturing steel doors, car tires, or flesh and bone. Same thing with the face of the blade to some degree...
 
In 1084, I would do a basic edge quench on both ends. This is where a torch shines. Do the spike first and then the edge. Any tempering and draw back of the spike while heating the edge will be a good thing. Temper the whole thing after the edge is done at 350-400F.
 
Maybe I missed it, but what are the dimensions on your hawk? The area under the head might be too large for a choked up grip, other than that I like your design a lot!
 
Thanks for the HT info Stacy... sounds like a plan.

As for dimensions, it is drawn (very roughly) to scale on 11x16" paper. I am not the worlds greatest artist with a pen and paper so its hard for me to get exactly what's in my head onto the paper. It tends to come out okay in steel though usually. The handle will be about 1.25" wide and the actual grip area about 1.50" give or take. It will probably be a little longer overall and the head 'squished' and drawn out per the suggestions received. I have the working stock cut out and have started beating it into submission...

This is the first 'hawk I have tried so I am anxious to see how it turns out. Will probably be a while before any pics get posted. I have a few others for customers in the works now and I have to keep the lights on in the shop so they come first...

If it turns out good and performs well I may make a copy to sell... I am going to do an upside down magnetic retention sheath (head down) for it as most of the sheaths I have seen are upright and seem slow to draw. The head will sit in a pocket so to speak and the handle will sit in a slot. Magnets will only have to keep it from bouncing up out of the pocket. It will high ride with about 3-4" of handle above the belt line.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top