Designing my jeweler's bench!

Well Jason, I saw your post too late and went ahead and made a mortice thingy. It does feel solid though. The bench pin I made somewhat like what I saw. Without the pin, I can attach the small anvil in the back to the overhang.

jeweler_bench4.jpg


And the lighting/magnifier.

jeweler_bench5.jpg


Now time to do some actual work.;)
 
Just a thought Patrice, turn it over so you have a flat surface to work on instead of a slope. It wil make some things easier. My father used to use a lamp like that when he was tying flies, have you thought about a magnavisor?
 
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I've read that you make different ones depending on the task.
And yes, I do have an OptiVISOR. Essential for detail work.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Jason-That's a great idea!
Click to expand...
+1!

tattooedfreak said:
Just a thought Patrice, turn it over so you have a flat surface to work on instead of a slope. It wil make some things easier. My father used to use a lamp like that when he was tying flies, have you thought about a magnavisor?
Click to expand...
Yup, the flat side up is easier to orient tools perpendicular to stock for many tasks. The beveled surface of the bench-pin facing down gives more hand clearance on the up stroke with the jeweler's saw. (Opportune place to insert the "jerk-off" sticky.)
 
I'll try the flat surface bench pin. I have to make a few of different shapes anyway. Can't wait to try it. And even though I haven't tried it for actual work yet, the arm rests do feel really comfortable. I may even try to find some way to add some to my sanding station.

Thanks again for all your help, much appreciated. :thumbup:
 
Flat side up works a lot better for me too.

One of my most useful bench pins is just a piece of 1 1/4" x 1" mahogany about 8 inches long with a square cut end. It is really nice for holding the work against the end for doing filework. It also works way better than a vise for filing curved edges like finger grooves and such.

I think you'll find that the pin you've made is a little short for most work. I like about 6 to 8 inches for most of mine. Enough length so my hand doesn't hit anything while sawing and a file doesn't hit the clamp but not so much that things start to flex. It also gives you room to rest your hand against the side of the pin while using rotary tools.
 
I use a flat piece of 1/4" board that would be technically called a "sawing block." It pivots out of the way when I don't need it.
It works well for filing. I thought about making one out of 1/8" steel or even brass.
 
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