Developing Stencils

I have that same stencil maker and have had the same problems as the rest of you. I though I was just doing something wrong. It's very frustrating. I have purchase stencils from Marking Methods in the past. They work well but are pretty expensive.

Charles, IMG is International Marking Group
 
You definately have to play with the exposure time depending on the size and font you use, for a basic print font size of 10-16 I have good luck with 2.5 minutes exposure, for a more elaborate calligraphy style font same size it takes a bit longer I use 3 mins. 15 seconds exposure. My problem when I initially posted this was fixed when I developed for longer, like TJ Smith and Blgoode said you need atleast 6-7 minutes of developing, and the stenciled area should be very white after its developed.
 
Its difficult for one person to tell another what times to use for exposure because it all depends on what light you are using and how far away it is from the stencil. I use a 500 watt halogen work light about 2-1/2 feet away from the stencil and expose it for 3 minutes. If you are using a 100 watt bulb 8 inches away, you exposure times may or may not be the same as mine.

I develop the stencil for 4-1/2 minutes in 1/2 cup of water with about 1/3 teaspoon of PH+ (pool chemical) disolved in the water (thanks to Bob Warner for the developer in a pinch formula). I've never used real developer so I have no idea on time required for it. Once I'm done developing I rinse the stencil under running water and rub the area very lightly between my thumb and forefinger. When I'm close to getting all the slime out of the stencil (usually 30 seconds or so), I blast the water thru the stencil while holding both edges. Blow it dry from both sides and then hold it up to a florescent light to look thru it. The stencil area should be very white and if you look real close you can see thru the screening in the middle of the stencil.

It all takes a little experimenting with exposure times, developer times, and cleaning technique but once you get it figured out with the font/logo you are using, write it down and it will work the next time you do it.

Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
 
Everyone seems to have different results. We've made dozens - maybe hundreds of stencils with the Martronic 440 system and it certainly is a learning curve. We found a few things that made a big difference.

  • We found that a minute and a half exposure was plenty.
  • Foil around the sides of the exposure unit helps.
  • Transparencies should be made on a good printer at max quality - and it's important to print on the right side (textured side) of the transparency, or they just smear.
  • Always burn a new stencil on a scrap first. (Old crappy kitchen knives are great candidates)
  • If they don't burn evenly, put them back in the developer and scrub for another 60 seconds. This one tip rescued 75% of our problem stencils.
  • After use, rinse the stencil, dry it and PUT IN AWAY IN A DARK PLACE. Even minor light that gets through a white envelope shortens the life of the stencil dramatically, leading to cracks that burn through. A well cared for stencil lasts for 50 - 100 impressions.
  • Don't go too deep. Even with no deep etching and only blackening, an etch will last for many years of use. Depth leads to reduced stencil life and to fuzzy images.
  • We've never experienced problems with "old" developer or electrolyte. People tend to want to try new solution. We look for problems elsewhere.
Hope that helps somene else's learning curve a bit.

Rob!
 
TJ Smith said:
Hey Brad
Run that PH + for developing stencils by me again.
Thanks
TJ
Click to expand...

Take 1/2 a cup of water, add 1/3 of a level teaspoon of PH+ to it and stir until desolved. After your stencil is exposed, throw it in water/PH+ mixture for the required time. I usually stir it around gently with a plastic sppon but it probably not necessary. When the stencil comes out of the mixture it will feel slimy (not sure if they come out slimy in real developer of not). Then rinse under running tap water while gently rubbing the stencil between your thumb and forefinger.

I keep meaning to get some real developer to try out but I was waiting until I had another order for more stencil film to get it.

Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
 
Teknition said:
Its difficult for one person to tell another what times to use for exposure because it all depends on what light you are using and how far away it is from the stencil. I use a 500 watt halogen work light about 2-1/2 feet away from the stencil and expose it for 3 minutes. If you are using a 100 watt bulb 8 inches away, you exposure times may or may not be the same as mine.

I develop the stencil for 4-1/2 minutes in 1/2 cup of water with about 1/3 teaspoon of PH+ (pool chemical) disolved in the water (thanks to Bob Warner for the developer in a pinch formula). I've never used real developer so I have no idea on time required for it. Once I'm done developing I rinse the stencil under running water and rub the area very lightly between my thumb and forefinger. When I'm close to getting all the slime out of the stencil (usually 30 seconds or so), I blast the water thru the stencil while holding both edges. Blow it dry from both sides and then hold it up to a florescent light to look thru it. The stencil area should be very white and if you look real close you can see thru the screening in the middle of the stencil.

It all takes a little experimenting with exposure times, developer times, and cleaning technique but once you get it figured out with the font/logo you are using, write it down and it will work the next time you do it.

Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
Click to expand...

Hi Brad,
May I ask what kind of stencil material you use? I havent had good luck with the blue sheets. I want to buy the same as marking methods use at least to see if its works for me but its expensive just to experiment with.
 
I use the blue sheets as well, the Martronics developer came with a bowl and sponge for the developer, I let it sit in the developer for 2 minutes and then gently rub the stencil with the sponge for another 4 minutes. It still comes out a little slimy but a quick rinse with water and its ready to be used.
 
I just got my first set of stencils from TUS this week.:D

Luckily they live in the next town over from me, so I got to go over and meet Jan and his wife(her name escapes me:rolleyes:) They took a ton of time going over designs and fonts with me and made sure I was happy. Very nice people with great service and a good price. $35 for 4 different sizes of my design.

Good luck,
Nathan


Brian, what burl is on that second knife? Beautiful work by the way!!
 
Well mine look really good they just dont allow flow through them. If I look very closely I can see they are closed off still.
 
Bruce Bump said:
Well mine look really good they just dont allow flow through them. If I look very closely I can see they are closed off still.
Click to expand...
I use IMGs blue stencils
I have that problem to. I think it is because the the residue from the stencil is not getting washed out.I use a sonic cleaner with 2 reservoirs.I use IMGs developer on one side and water with a little dawn dish detergent in the other.
One the stencil is washed out and is white I move it to the rinse side for a good rinse.The stencil is slimey after developing and still needs to be rubbed between your fingers or cleaned out.
You can tell if its open by putting the stencil on a paper towel and take a wet towel and press on the stencil. If the water goes through you are probably good. Test on scrap first.
Thanks for the info Brad.
What do you use for electrolyte.
Take care
TJ
 
toecutter said:
I just got my first set of stencils from TUS this week.:D

Luckily they live in the next town over from me, so I got to go over and meet Jan and his wife(her name escapes me:rolleyes:) They took a ton of time going over designs and fonts with me and made sure I was happy. Very nice people with great service and a good price. $35 for 4 different sizes of my design.

Good luck,
Nathan


Brian, what burl is on that second knife? Beautiful work by the way!!
Click to expand...

Jan was extremely patient with my stencil design. We were having computer conflicts with font names and the actual shape of the font. We got it figured out and I got what I wanted. Extremely happy with what I have. Just in case anybody was wondering, there are two versions of the Wizzard font. Mine rocks, and the one on the internet is not so cool.
 
TJ Smith said:
Thanks for the info Brad.
What do you use for electrolyte.
Take care
TJ
Click to expand...


For carbon steel I use electrolyte from Img that I got with my first order. For stainless I use stainless electrolyte I got from Jeff Diotte at Downie knife supply in Canada.


Bruce, If you try your stencil and the electrolyte isn't going thru it, put it back in the developer for 30 seconds or so while rubbing it gently between your fingers, then rinse it out again under the tap. test and repeat as necessary. If you find you have to keep putting it back in the developer, extend your original developer time.

Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
 
I was having problem developing my stencils. I was using a CFL for a light source on someone's suggestion. I had heard that daylight was a good light source for exposing stencil material. I noticed in a photo that the CFL put out a real yellow light, so I changed to a reading lamp bulb with daylight spectrum.(they look blue) That took care of my problem, the stencils wash out well now, and last longer. I don't think the others were ever fully developed. I still store the developed stencils in an Altoids tin to keep them out of the light and air.
Hopefully switching to this type bulb will cure other's problems.

Good Luck
Alden
 
Thanks guys, you've given my new hope. I'll give it another try before I toss the whole mess out in the alley.
 
Ill switch bulbs too! THanks for the help :)
 
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