• Happy Thanksgiving to all of you! I hope that you all have something to be grateful for this year and for many years to come

  • The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/

  • America has reached 250 years, and I am grateful to be here, in the best country in the world. Thank every one of you who helps make this country a better place, those who have gone before and risked it all, and those who've paid the ultimate price to make the United States what we are today.

    Happy Birthday America! Let Freedom Ring for all time!

Diamond Rod update

S

SubSpace

Joined
May 26, 2011
Messages
630
I posted a little while ago asking about the Spyderco diamond rods and how would I know when to stop and move on. Well, I finally worked up the courage to put my beloved GEC Maverick to the diamond. I only made about five or six passes each side on the flat side only of the diamond stones at 30 degrees, then switched to 40 degrees and did the normal sharpmaker routine.

There is a highly noticeable difference in cutting performance. Am I dreaming, or was five or six strokes really all it took to get my edge in shape? I can't believe I reprofiled the blade in that little time. What did I do?

Confused but pleased--

Andrew
 
SubSpace said:
I posted a little while ago asking about the Spyderco diamond rods and how would I know when to stop and move on. Well, I finally worked up the courage to put my beloved GEC Maverick to the diamond. I only made about five or six passes each side on the flat side only of the diamond stones at 30 degrees, then switched to 40 degrees and did the normal sharpmaker routine.

There is a highly noticeable difference in cutting performance. Am I dreaming, or was five or six strokes really all it took to get my edge in shape? I can't believe I reprofiled the blade in that little time. What did I do?

Confused but pleased--

Andrew
Click to expand...

I assume your GEC is 1095? If so, you've now been properly introduced to the character of both the steel and the diamond. ;)

Diamond will cut anything, and simpler steels like 1095, which lack hard carbides, will be like butter on a diamond hone. It's often all too easy to 'over-sharpen' 1095 on diamond, because it'll remove steel so fast. That's why so many will caution to go very, very light on diamond, when sharpening carbon steels or some of the simpler & softer stainless steels (like 420/440 series steels, for example). More abrasion-resistant steels like S30V will still take more time, even on diamond, but will still finish up much faster than if trying to use other abrasives.

You're ahead of the curve already. Many who've tried diamond hones for the first time, will over-grind a blade on it (too long, with too heavy pressure). You were paying enough attention to notice how fast the diamond was working, and kept the number of passes minimal and light. That's exactly how diamond hones were intended to be used. Nice job Andrew! :thumbup:
 
I got really confused when I first tried sharpening a SAK for a friend. I guess I got so used to the whole "super steel" thing that I got out of touch with how a blade should feel on a stone. What should have been hair popping sharp was barely paper cutting. I went back and used about a quarter of the number of strokes and half the pressure, and it was sharp again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top