Diamond steels-----any good, or not?

just wondering if anybody had an opinion on diamond sharp. steels. Are they about the same courseness as a ceramic one? I read Cliff Stamp's post about sharpening khuks, and was wondering if I'm better off buying a ceramis rod instead. I'm having a hard time putting a fine edge on my GS after I "sharpened out" some pitting on the blade edge. Is the diamond steel to rough/course for a final edge? Any help would be greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks alot!

Rob
 
I

Ice

Joined
Sep 2, 1999
Messages
146
MauiRob,I use the DMT stones all the time and have very good luck.I use the fine grit mostly but the mid. is good if the edge is nicked up a lot. I too have trouble getting that fine edge on my G.S. I think it has more to do with the steep angle of the blade and the hardness it is temperd at. I can get it sharp but not what I would call razor sharp. On this style of blade I believe it is not really intended to take that kind of an edge as it is more like a sword edge than it is a knife edge. Ether way I have no trouble cutting with it as the weight tends to help carry it thru. The ceramic work well also, I also use the Spyderco Med. tri-angle sharpener. Which ever you choose will work just a matter of chose or carry ability.
 
MauiRob,
I like to use the Spyderco ceramic (triangle cross section) sticks. They work fine for me. I use the coarse stone first, then the finer one last. I don't actually change the angle of the edge, I just refine it. If you put a razor edge on it and use it for wood, the edge will not last. But it depends on what you want to use your Khukuri for. My Sirupatis all have edges that will slice paper sheets easily, mine are reserved for weapons use. Eventually I will get some other styles for camping chores.
 
:
I have a triangular "burr" knife that I hollow ground from a 3 cornered file.Thats a 240* included angle if I did my math right.
When I use a fine india stone on it the knife is not just "shaving sharp" but "hair popping sharp."

The trick is to get the angles even and burr free.Be sure you're getting a burr down one whole edge before starting to hone the other side.
My GS is very much "shaving sharp" and remains so after cutting wood,even hard woods.
If it isn't quite up to par after some extensive chopping you can use the chakma to bring it back to shaving again.
I haven't been on to see if a mini-test we done over at Lynn Griffth's has been posted,but I cut a 3/8" bolt in two with the AK Bowie pushed through the edge with a vise and it rolled up a bit which is what is to be desired.
Richard,another forumite,was surprised to find the rolled part of the edge gone and the edge back to what he calls scary sharp after about 5 minutes work with the chakma.
That's the way the should all be.
I had truble when I first started buying and tryingto sharpen the khukuris too,so don't feel bad.
The chakma use takes a bit of practice.A good tip on theier use is to start out pushing the material the way you want it to go firmly and as you bring the edge back then start using lighter stroes until you get down to just the weight of the chakma itself.Your khkuri's will be shaving sharp!!

Oh!! I like the duo-fold DMT's with the double grits.
I have a blue and red and a red and green.
The next one will be the black and blue for heavier work around the house.
Those things are awesome!!

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

Khukuri FAQ


 
I use forged steel rod to sharpening my khurkri
and after that I use chakma for final..but I'm still not satisfied . It is got any level or grid to
choose for sharpening.
Need advice from expert.
 
I'm still wet behind the ears with Khuks as well, however, I have good success with the chakma for general use, a butcher's steel for more serious stuff. I get the edge as good as I can with the steel first, (if necessary), then use the chakma. After this, I use a piece of 600 grit wet/dry sand in a tubular shape (wrapped around a dowel, etc.) to perform the final finishing. My khuks are always shaving sharp after this. I use them primarily for chopping brush, and splitting wood. Unless I contact concrete or metal, the edge rarely needs more than a quick touch up with the chakma. Even after a 2 hour attack on the brush (varying sizes and hardnesses), my Sirupati would still shave! It had only one small nick from striking a rock, which was easily taken care of with the chakma. These are REALLY SERIOUS tools. I agree with others, though, it does take a little while to get used to it. The first several times I "sharpened" my blades, they were duller than when I started.

Rob
 
The Khukuri, because of the ever changing blade angle, requires different methods to obtain a working, or refined edge. For a quick job on a new blade that is not real sharp I do the following. I will remove enough metal with one of the small carbide sharpeners 30 degrees total. I put the knife against a bench edge out, I put on a Kevelar glove with S/S wire mesh inside the kevelar. About six passes, and you have a pretty sharp blade, I then take the knife to a 12" Medium Ez Lap Diamond rod { With Guard } To get a near shaving edge, and a very good chopping edge. If I require a hair popping edge, I further refine the edge with a large 12" butchers ceramic rod for the ultimate edge. The small carbide tool should only need to be used once, unless you really do a number on the edge. Butchers ceramics are no longer avaliable in long large diameters, because as the commercial meat packers found, they broke when a butcher walked in to a table. A hook file in a shallow diamond configuration will also set up the blade for a start. These also work well if you spend long hours in country, and need a real quick serviceable edge. This also goes for the small light carbide,but the down side is that you remove a lot of metal at one time.

Floyd
 
Wow, thanks for all the great responses! I think I'll print out this page and keep it for future reference---come to think of it, its not a bad idea for alot of the great info on this forum. Yesterday I had very good results with a butcher's steel by Forstner that has a med and fine hone on one steel. However, I'm really excited that there are so many options when it comes time to sharpen again. I'm especially encouraged to hear that you can put a sharp edge on the khukuris with the chakma. Again thanks so much for all the advice! I hope to return the favor some day (when I actually know something. Ha Ha!).

Thanks again.

Rob
 
I have to go and get the old grinding stone my brother gave me. Probably 80 yrs. old. It's about 2' in diameter, maybe 3" wide. ----- I can hook up an electric motor if the pedals don't work. Those old wheels can really put and edge on a blade like nothing I know .

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I wouldn't dare to take my blades to a wheel like that, but that's cause I'm a total novice when it comes to sharpening. I'd probably end up with a khukuri implanted into my knee--which might be an idea for the home defense thread--Ha Ha!
 
Rob --- The wheel will turn very slow and it is very very smooth to the touch. I took my time and sharpened a machete with one and touched a heavy plastic garbage barrell, and the machete sliced all the way down through. I was amazed.

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DMT's fine large rod is actually fairly coarse compared to say a fine ceramic stone. I would not want to leave an edge that coarse on a high impact knife, the micro serrations are too weak. I would finish with a ceramic rod and/or a loaded strop. As Yvsa noted, once you get it very sharp, simple steeling will be enough for a long time.

-Cliff
 
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