Diamond stone advice

klammer

klammer

Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
580
Looking for a coarser stone for starting my edge bevels. The DMT "coarse" flat plate I have takes a long long time even starting from a thin edge. They sell the 2 different styles - the metal plates and the plastics backed plates...I have all solid plates and like them apart from the swarf really builds up fast. My concern is the plastic backed plates are not as flat? Is there a better option apart from these in the "extra coarse" Grit:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=67660&cat=1,43072

and

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=33005&cat=1,43072

Cheers,
Klammer
 
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May be just me, but the links no worky. DMT does have an extra extra coarse stone. Coarse for DMT, IIRC, is 325 grit. Extra coarse is 220 grit and Extra Extra coarse is 120 grit. I'm talking the Diasharp line....the one with steel base and no "holes" on the surface. I have the whole line.....and the 120 grit stone does remove material fast. If that was all I have...the 120 grit stone would work fine. But I use a slow speed wet grinder in 320 grit, and it cuts a bevel in a hurry. You can use your belt sander too, maybe a 120 grit or 220 grit belt, just keep it super cool.
 
Links not working.



DMT has an extra-coarse plate (220 grit), and XX-course ( 120) too. I use solid plates on lower grits. I have the plastic insert plates for fine and super fine.
http://theperfectedge.com/?product=d11x-continuous-diamond

The Perfect Edge carries a great selection of sharpening supplies and Howard is a good fellow to deal with.
 
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Links corrected - thanks Stu - I have Diasharp stone in coarse (solid metal). My question is really is there any pro's / con's between the plastic backed and metal backed stones that DMT produces?
 
I really don't know if there is much difference in the plastic vs steel based stones. The plastic ones do have the holes on the surface, and the steel based ones (in the Dia Sharp line) do not. I prefer the smooth surface of the Dia sharp line. As far as machining tolerances and flex.....probably not enough to be an issue at all. Good thought, tho, and there may be a bigger difference than I would imagine....I really couldn't tell you.

Bob, I've been contemplating purchasing a low grit waterstone, but usually just turn to the belt grinder with a 120 grit belt, and keep it cool while doing so. Or the grizzly slow speed water stone. I know micro tempering may be an issue with powered sharpening, but what do you think about the low grit waterstones vs slow speed waterstone grinder vs belt sander etc? My concern is the low grit waterstone would dish out in a hurry....but I have no experience with anything below 1000 grit (jap) waterstones. I do have a 1000 4000 8000 12000.

Well, looking at the thing, the Atoma is diamond, right? So it won't dish out like I am thinking then, right?
 
The Atoma is a diamond stone. The more I use mine the better it seems to cut. My usual procedure is to grind my knives hardened down to .010" edge thickness. When the knife is completed, I use an EdgePro to cut in the bevels. I start with the Atoma 140. With a .010" edge thickness, it takes me about 400 strokes per side to get a burr on one of my 3" EDC blades. It sounds like a lot but it really doesn't take that long. From there I work through the EdgePro waterstones which I've read are not that good but, I'm getting some very keen edges. I dress the waterstones with the Atoma which makes things pretty easy. In about 25 knives, I've only had to dress the 120 and 220 stones. I get a very consistent, mirror polished, super sharp edge that has better edge retention than any factory knife I've ever owned.

Bob
 
I saw a stone a couple of years ago. I want to say it was SiC and around 60 grit. The reviews all said that it was as fast as using a belt grinder, only with no heat. I believe it was somewhat costly. Anyone know the stone?

As for DMT plates, I've read nothing but good about Ultra Sharp diamond plates. They don't have a big variety of grits and they are 2 or 2.5x6, but they are way less than DMT. They make a larger one that is dual sided with a holder. It's a bench stone size, and has diagonal line scoring to mimic an expanded surface stone. Anyone here tried any of these? I'm very likely going to purchase a set.
 
I use the edge pro apex, and the low grit is 120, which I rarely use. I typically start at 220. I have water stones up to 8000 grit on top of the edge pro system. I typically only use those on kitchen slicers now. The 2000g polishing tape on the edge pro is plenty sharp for skinners and edc's. Edge pro claims its 2000 is equivalent to 10,000 water stones, but it isn't quite the same. 1000 is finer than than my 2000 grit water stone, but my 8000g water stone is a more refined edge than the edge pro.
 
I have a 120 Edge Pro stone. I'm not all that enamored with it honestly. I tried using my go-to lube (usp mineral oil) and the stone separated from the holder. I glued it back on (can't remember what I used) and after that I realized that water was probably necessary. I also use a touch of soap with the water. It hasn't separated again, but It's not a particularly aggressive stone overall. I get much better cutting with a Norton bench stone that is rated higher in grit. I use Bar Keepers Friend (oxalic acid) to clean all of my stones because it does a fantastic job of eating swarf. Maybe I should try the 220?
 
Omega Leather Works said:
I have a 120 Edge Pro stone. I'm not all that enamored with it honestly. I tried using my go-to lube (usp mineral oil) and the stone separated from the holder. I glued it back on (can't remember what I used) and after that I realized that water was probably necessary. I also use a touch of soap with the water. It hasn't separated again, but It's not a particularly aggressive stone overall. I get much better cutting with a Norton bench stone that is rated higher in grit. I use Bar Keepers Friend (oxalic acid) to clean all of my stones because it does a fantastic job of eating swarf. Maybe I should try the 220?
Click to expand...

Definitely use water instead of oil. I find the 120g stone only useful on harder stainless. For carbon steel, the 220g cuts as well, and clogs less. The 600 and up stones cut pretty quickly. Damp but not wet seems to work the best. If the load up, they don't cut worth crap until cleaned out.
 
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