Did I bite off more than I can chew?

samuraistuart

samuraistuart

Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
3,158
I've been "eyeing" a san-mai project for some time now, and bit the bullet. I ordered a bar, from workshopheaven, of their Japanese layered steel. I got the White #2 core with iron "jacket". I'm stricly stock removal. I got to thinking....is the iron jacket going to present a problem to a stock removal guy who uses files to cut his bevels? I do have a 4x36 el cheapo hardware store stationary belt sander, but I only use it to clean up profile lines and what have you, not to cut bevels. My concern is the iron (of which I have ZERO knowledge and experience in working with) is going to present a problem to my filing. I would think that the iron should be easier to cut than steel, but what do I know? Any comfort would be MOST appreciated, but I want the truth.....even if I can't handle it!

As a side note.....I ordered a Simonds Multi-Cut file from Grainger's. Whoah....that thing is cool. I'm used to the modern Nicholson stuff. The teeth on the Simonds are higher and sharper. No comparison. Someone suggested NOS (new old stock) files, of which I was not even familiar with. The older USA made files being much better, I understand.

Thanks for your replies!
 
Iron should be easier to file than steel.

The Simonds multi-cut file is a specific design made to work with ferrous metals. Other file companies will call that design a Chipbreaker file. Basically you have a very aggressive single cut file with grooves cut into them at intervals to prevent the metal filings from clogging the teeth. Those grooves make that diamond pattern you see. Nicholson has an equivalent being their Magicut file, though their interval grooves are spaced tighter together and uniform in angle so that it looks almost like a double cut file.

I have a nos Nicholson Magicut and a new stock Pferd Chipbreaker (made in Germany). They're both very good. The Nicholson feels a bit better in quality, especially when I look at the sides of the file and compare the uniformity of the teeth. But I don't know if that's just because of the individual ones I have in my possession.
 
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The iron cheeks will not present you with any problem provided you are using good quality thick files. As long as everything is held in check, you will be able to maintain a nice even bevel. The iron will cut faster than the steel, just account for it with your pressure. You will feel it grab a little more but just take it slow and everything will be good to go.
Makes for a hella nice finished piece....
 
Yasuki laminated steel works very well with hand tools. The iron will file away as the steel is removed. The file is a flat object, and unless you are rocking it back and forth, it will remove equal amounts of iron and steel. The same goes for sanding. Use a hard backer block, or a granite surface plate ( or other flat surface) to sand on. If the abrasive surface is flat, the bevel will be flat.

One caveat is to make sure where the core is, and set the edge in the center. The laminations can vary a bit, and even be slightly diagonal. A few strokes with 120 grit paper and a dip in dilute FC will show the steel from the iron sharply. Check the bevels occasionally this way as you work them, and make any adjustments needed to put the edge where you want it.

TIPs:
Leave the edge fairly thick pre-HT. This is a very high carbon steel, and can warp a bit, or crack, if too thin.
Temper immediately after the quench.
Make the final edge fairly low angle, as this is a slicer steel.
This is a steel that does best with well controlled HT. It isn't a 2BF steel.
Coat the blade with a thin wash of satanite before HT.
 
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