did I just ruin my 2.7 ?

Well at least you didn't go full Gaston on that edge.
Put a secondary on it and it should be fine.
 
Ya you didn't ruin anything there. Have a chat with each of your fingers though, and remind them to stay out of its way.
 
Hard Knocks said:
Ya you didn't ruin anything there. Have a chat with each of your fingers though, and remind them to stay out of its way.
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Absolutely this... I have minced my fingers to pieces on obtuse blades... this guy could take a whole thumb off!! Looks good and slicey though!!!
 
Looks like a little piranha ready to slice through anything :thumbup:
 
It honestly depends on what you're using the 2.7 for.
If you're going for a wicked slicer, I'd leave it alone.
You can always add a secondary if you end up damaging it.
 
I'd leave it alone, too, and then just begin applying the secondary as necessary for resharp. You should get a lot of service out of it that way.
 
Soo I ended up getting some chipping and I went with a secondary bevel with my kme 17° . So I'm wondering what , if any issues , will a secondary bevel cause . Is there a specific use for the second bevel ? I've never seen them on a factory mass knife so I'm guessing they are not particularly needed . Any input would be appreciated thx
 
sfrigon1 said:
Soo I ended up getting some chipping and I went with a secondary bevel with my kme 17° . So I'm wondering what , if any issues , will a secondary bevel cause . Is there a specific use for the second bevel ? I've never seen them on a factory mass knife so I'm guessing they are not particularly needed . Any input would be appreciated thx
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So technically the edge-bevel IS the "secondary bevel", commonly cut at 15-20 dps relative to the centerline of the apex. The first or "primary bevel" is the one behind it that covers the face of the knife and gives it the primary wedge shape, commonly 5-10 dps.

Now, a LOT of knives also have a "microbevel" cut right up to the very apex of the knife. This is often applied in the process of burr removal after sharpening the edge bevel, and is usually 2-3 degrees less acute than the edge bevel itself. It may be applied with a flat stone or rod or accomplished via stropping which gives the apex a micro-convexity that similarly increases the angle. You may not see that microbevel on your factory knife, but it is commonly there, even on knives as humble as an opinel.

The entire reason for a microbevel (which you might consider tertiary) or even a secondary "edge bevel" for that matter is to increase the thickness of the geometry directly behind the apex so as to support it for greater durability in use. Durability of a knife edge is dependent first upon the structural integrity of the edge material (the steel matrix in this case, with its inherent strength and toughness) and then the thickness of that material. Whether or not a tertiary bevel is "needed" is entirely dependent upon how the user employs the knife. When a user experiences chipping or rolling at the apex of their cutting tool, the first thing to try is application of a tertiary or microbevel at the apex :thumbup: You might try stropping to make your apex convex if you have the means available, otherwise go right ahead and resharpen at that new angle with your flat hone.

In summary:
1) actually a lot of factory knives have another bevel within the edge bevel, a 'microbevel' to support the apex and improve durability.
2) whether or not a bevel at 17-dps is required is dependent on your use. If you experience chipping at 15-dps then YES you need a somewhat thicker angle :thumbup: Someone else who uses their knife differently might not need it *shrug* It's your knife, your use is what counts.
3) Thanks for this update! Keep it coming, and enjoy that knife!
 
A microbevel on the edge is basically what forms when you strop or run a couple passes on the sharpmaker to maintain your edge. There's no structural problem with having one.

If I read your post correctly, you went 10 deg per side (I could be wrong, but if it's 20dps then it would match the factory bevel and not cause this thread). Your suggested 17dps is not bad, but still a little thin. I'd go with 20dps myself. Whatever angle, you don't want to sharpen too much. A few swipes each side, or just barely enough to remove most of the chips.

Edit: didn't see the above post while mashing out this response on the phone. So basically, I concur. Lol
 
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I agree with both of the above gentleman as well, especially as summarized in these statments:

chiral.grolim said:
....1) actually a lot of factory knives have another bevel within the edge bevel, a 'microbevel' to support the apex and improve durability.
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coiledwire said:
A microbevel on the edge is basically what forms when you strop or run a couple passes on the sharpmaker to maintain your edge. There's no structural problem with having one.
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sfrigon1, you aren't doing anything wrong IMO. You're going to know exactly what that little blade likes before you're done. I'm betting that you're getting close to having an optimal working edge angle on it for your uses, and the addition of the slightly more obtuse microbevel is exactly the right step to take at this point IMO.
 
Hopefully I didn't over sharpen at the 17° I just tried to create a consistent line along the edge of both sides maybe a 64th of an inch
 
sfrigon1 said:
Great ! It needed the secondary bevel for sure but it still bites pretty good and I am more than happy w the 20cv👍
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Glad to hear it!

What have you been using your 2.7 for? I did a little wood work with mine when I first got it, but my 3v 4.7 is such a bully and steals most of my time from other blades.
 
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