Did I ruin my blade.

Joined
Dec 28, 2012
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So today I was heating up a small blade from a piece of spring steel with any oxycetaline torch. Right before I quenched a few sparks shot off a spot. I think the spot went away but it is in temper right now. My question is did I ruin my heat treat by overheating it?
 
Yes, but it can be recovered from if you didn't burn up the blade. If there's a small burned spot, grind past that, then triple normalize. Do your heat treatment again after that and don't get it that hot.

A torch would not be my first choice for heat treatment.
 
Yes, but it can be recovered from if you didn't burn up the blade. If there's a small burned spot, grind past that, then triple normalize. Do your heat treatment again after that and don't get it that hot.

A torch would not be my first choice for heat treatment.
Thanks but what if there is no visible spot. Next Time I will try a firepit for heat treating.
 
i think i understand where youre coming from. my original approach to knife making was that i should be able to do this without spending a ton of money, and i did. i made pretty good knives out of coil springs with a oxy/acetylene torch and some fireplace bricks, also with a pit dug in the backyard and fed with coal and a hair dryer motor attached to an old fence post tube. i only used local or found wood. i still like the idea of that approach. however, if and when you get some money saved up buy an oven. h.t. with the oven will give you superior, and more importantly, predictable results. that said build a little 3 sided wall outta old bricks to reflect some of that torch heat back at the blade and use a magnet to tell when your almost there. sparks=bad, very bad. good luck man.
leif
 
Thanks I have a 3 foot piece of 1095 that I will have the knives made from that heat treated by peters.
 
i think i understand where youre coming from. my original approach to knife making was that i should be able to do this without spending a ton of money, and i did. i made pretty good knives out of coil springs with a oxy/acetylene torch and some fireplace bricks, also with a pit dug in the backyard and fed with coal and a hair dryer motor attached to an old fence post tube. i only used local or found wood. i still like the idea of that approach. however, if and when you get some money saved up buy an oven. h.t. with the oven will give you superior, and more importantly, predictable results. that said build a little 3 sided wall outta old bricks to reflect some of that torch heat back at the blade and use a magnet to tell when your almost there. sparks=bad, very bad. good luck man.
leif

Looking on Craigslist and after temper it just appears as a very light blotch. Thing I'll either reheatreat or use as a pattern
 
Yeah, normalize then ht again.

I just ht three 15n20 knives with a propane torch connected to a 20lbs tank blew into a L shape red-brick forge. tempered twice at 275F using a toaster oven. I am getting better controlling the forge exhaust, all three blades are straight and w/o scales. Flame from this torch is quite big so blades get heated pretty evenly. I plan keep this setup for quick burn fun & tinker ht. I am building a propane forge. It will be fun to play with my new Evenheat oven in a few weeks. heheh, I've a dorky plan for performance test identical 52100 blade profile & geometry ht by each setup.
 
Two possibilities come to mind. The sparks were something on the blade that the torch blew off and burned, or you burned the steel itself. The former is basically a nonissue. The latter means you started to melt the steel and where ever that happened cannot be fixed.
 
Bluntcut -
275F is way too low for tempering 15N20. The minimum is 350F. Also, a torch is a really ,really, poor heat source for 15N20. This steel requires good heat control and a proper soak.

Fadugleman -
Using an A/0 torch for HT can be done, but a rosebud tip is needed. 1095 isn't the best steel for a torch HT. 5160 or 1084 would be better choices. If there is excess oxygen, it will affect the steel. Seeing sparks is a very bad sign. Use a large flame with as low an oxygen feed as possible. Placing a few firebricks together to make a niche to shield the blade helps a lot ( Use soft firebricks, don't use red bricks).
 
If you're stuck heating with a torch.

Try putting your blade steel on a chuck of say 1/2 x 3 mild steel and applying the flame to the mild steel.

Then let the heat conduct up to your blade steel.

It will even your your heat and you can watch the blade colours more easily.
 
Bluntcut -
275F is way too low for tempering 15N20. The minimum is 350F. Also, a torch is a really ,really, poor heat source for 15N20. This steel requires good heat control and a proper soak.

Fadugleman -
Using an A/0 torch for HT can be done, but a rosebud tip is needed. 1095 isn't the best steel for a torch HT. 5160 or 1084 would be better choices. If there is excess oxygen, it will affect the steel. Seeing sparks is a very bad sign. Use a large flame with as low an oxygen feed as possible. Placing a few firebricks together to make a niche to shield the blade helps a lot ( Use soft firebricks, don't use red bricks).

Thanks for the response that steel is not 1095 but spring steel from an old disc. When I am ready to heat treat 1095 i will send it away to be done 3rd party so I dont ruin it. This was just a prototype if you will.
 
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