didnt bring my edge small enough befor heat treating

Unstabilized black palm is why it gets its nickname - "Porcupine wood". Coat the handle with CA until it won't absorb any more. Sand the handle back down to the wood and repeat until it won't take any resin. Then sand to the wood and take up to 1000 grit. That should keep the fiber bundles in place.

CONGRATULATIONS - You are the 1,000,000th maker to put the handle on too soon! Don't worry, you won't make that mistake again :)
 
Is CA super glue?

I did have to re-sand my handle and apply more coats of teak oil. All the sanding of the blade made my hands black and I transferred it to the handle so the wood was all nasty looking.
 
k, a little research and answered my own q. I think i might try the CA finish. Looks promising and you can finish to a matte instead of glass if you want. I think the grain will look better too with higher contrast since its clear vs yellow-ish with most finishes. The light grain takes on more finish so it becomes darker.
 
If you already oiled it, the CA may not penetrate as well. Wipe it down with acetone well first to clean off as much teak oil as possible.
 
just found an old thread that Stacy posted this in. Wish I read this before I sent my D2 blades into heat treatment with a thickness of ~.040

Shallow hardening carbon steels, 1095,W-1,W-2, and low manganese steel - .040-.050

Deeer hardening carbon steels, steel with more manganese, and higher alloy steels - .030-.040

Air hardening steels with plate quench -.010-.020
 
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