My Izula slices tomatoes at a straight angle very well. I've honed it on my japanese waterstones so I can shave with it. So, regarding my previous post: I'm talking about slicing at an angle. I come from Sweden. Here we are used to scandinavian ground blades which are possibly the very best carvers/slicers there are. Yes, they chip n' break, but their geometry allows for superior slicing (especially wood). Having said that, a 20 degree edge is a sturdy, long lived one. It is very well suited for a survival blade and it will stay sharp much longer than a scandi. However, a thinner grind with a 20 degree edge will cut better than a thicker ground blade with the same edge angle. I mentioned breaking. I know that carbon steel should be softer and more durable, but i dropped a carbon folder on the street once and the blade broke straight off. It was an EKA (Sweden) and ever since I've been suspicious of the durability of the material. It's not for nothing that pretty much all survival blades made out of carbon steel seem to have a thicker spine than their stainless counterparts. I don't know — I may just be guessing, but that was the reason for suggesting a 440C instead of 1095 on a hypothetically thinner blade.
@Bolt-action bultema:
Yeah, the reprofiling of the blade is a good solution and I might do that at some point, but for now I'm waiting for it to get dull (testing the longevity). After that I'm going to sharpen it at about 18 degrees and see what that does. Thx for the tip though.