Different locking mechanisms and wear

[DocJD]

I recall at one point the catalog having an explanation about how it was self adjusting as the lock wore. I really gotta get one now, ha ha.

I highly recommend the Cold Steel AD-10 for anyone wanting to try out a Tri-ad lock knife . They really got the action smooth and easy on this particular model .

 

[marthinus]

Interesting discussion.

When discussing wear and locks personally we would want to define some parameters.

For me, wear means that a lock will wear to a point where the lock is compromised to the point it wont keep the blade open. This means nuisance such as blade play is acceptable.

To date I have seen a 45 year old Buck 110 where the back lock has bottomed out and the blade started giving some play. But still functions perfectly with regards to keeping the blade open.

There has been a report here and there of tri ad doing similar but the blade wont close on your fingers.

I have seen liner locks move across the entire blade (granted the execution had room for improvement) but similar to above though there was blade play the blade wont just close on your hands.


Below some reading on the complexity of liner and frame lock geometry that is key to good safe lock.

Liner locks- why?

 

[FrannaM]

I have a Spyderco Tenacious with a worn out liner lock. When the blade is opened, the lock springs all the way to the liner on t he other side. The blade "locks," but it wiggles noticeably. The knife is maybe ten years old, at the most. Probably not bad mileage, considering initial cost.

That's what happened to my Ambitious. I In the case of liner lock, the liner needs to be of a decent steel to combat prolonged wear. In the case of the Ambitious it may be a combination of cheap liner steel and the already low grade 8cr13mov used for the blade. My budget RAT 1 (AUS8) has seen more use than my S Ambitious and the liner still has rather early lockup.

 

[willard0341]

I prefer a steel insert on frame locks myself. However, CRK frame locks are no slouch when it comes to wear. The owner of a sporting goods store I do business with let me hold his well used, decade old Sebenza. The lock bar was about 3/4 of the way toward the opposite scale. That isn’t too bad IMO for a 10 year old folder. His store no longer carried them, so he wasn’t trying to get me buy one.

I would give a dollor bill to see his knife when it came out of the box 10 years ago.... i bet it was right at 75% (or your three quarters)

 

[sabre cat]

...Without meaning to be a snarky old fart, I find it intriguing that the new breed of knife intelligentsia who seem to be obsessed with these sorts of things also tend to be the same folks who switch knives with roughly the same frequency as they change their socks.

But I have the color of my socks and my knives coordinated!

I once wore out the lock on a CRKT M16-02 Tanto. Does that count for anything?

 

[sharp_edge]

I prefer a steel insert on frame locks myself. However, CRK frame locks are no slouch when it comes to wear. The owner of a sporting goods store I do business with let me hold his well used, decade old Sebenza. The lock bar was about 3/4 of the way toward the opposite scale. That isn’t too bad IMO for a 10 year old folder. His store no longer carried them, so he wasn’t trying to get me buy one.

Did the owner tell you the lockbar of his sebenza wore and traveled? AFAIK, that is about the lockup % of new Sebenzas.

 

[allenC]

In my experience, liner locks tend to wear the most.

Least wear...Bali-Song latch lock. I've never seen one wore out.

 

[TheEdge01]

Did the owner tell you the lockbar of his sebenza wore and traveled? AFAIK, that is about the lockup % of new Sebenzas.

No, he didn’t say it traveled. I figured it naturally happened over time as the knife is being used.

 

[kniferbro]

No, he didn’t say it traveled. I figured it naturally happened over time as the knife is being used.

Yeah CRK aims for like 50-70ish % on their lock up straight from the factory. So even MORE of a testament

 

[Weiss]

That's what happened to my Ambitious. I In the case of liner lock, the liner needs to be of a decent steel to combat prolonged wear. In the case of the Ambitious it may be a combination of cheap liner steel and the already low grade 8cr13mov used for the blade. My budget RAT 1 (AUS8) has seen more use than my S Ambitious and the liner still has rather early lockup.

Your RAT 1 sounds like my Utilitac II. I've had that knife almost as long as the Tenacious, and the liner lock looks like it hasn't moved at all over the years.

 

[FrannaM]

Your RAT 1 sounds like my Utilitac II. I've had that knife almost as long as the Tenacious, and the liner lock looks like it hasn't moved at all over the years.

I have always wondered about the liner steel when purchasing a decent quality liner lock knife.
Not a lot of emphasis gets put on liner steel type under knife specifications. You don't often see a manufacturer list the steel used for liners. The Ace Biblio do mention the Liner steel type, which was quite interesting to me.

At the end of the day if you purchase a mid range liner lock folder with a decent blade steel intend to be a user, there is no point if the liner steel isn't also of a decent quality.

 

[Weiss]

Seems like I read somewhere that the liner on the Utilitac II was hardened in some fashion. If that's the case, I suppose that explains why I'm still using it but not so much the Tenacious.