differential tempering or not?

u r bound and determined to make me type ant u!!!:(
ther r several ways i skin that cat
sometimes i use clay and water
sometimes spring harden the whole blade and flame harden the edge
( works well w L6)
some times oil quench the whole knife then draw the back( this is my less favorite because of the sometimes inconsistant results )
ask questions??
harley
www.lonesomepineknives.com
 
Bruce,

for your rope cutting the first thing is EDGE GEOMETRY. The second thing is sharp. For one piece of one inch hemp technique is not as important as the first two and sharp comes second to edge geometry. I can cut up to four pieces of rope with the edge that I put on all my knives. after that I cut lots of rope but could get no more than that. I then put a fine polished edge on my knife and worked on my technique and cleanly cut eight peices of rope, at the montana knife show but had already choked and been eliminated from the competion.

Bill Burke
 
Ok I am confused. What is the besy way to do it as a general rule? Edge quench or full quench and draw back? Is the second what is referred to as selective tempering? I was edge quenching but have thought that full quenching and drawing back would produce a more springy blade. I want flexibility with steel memory so it returns to straight withing reason. I realize anything bent 90 degrees will normally not return to full straight but will an edge quench soft back at a 45 degree flex return to straight? By the way Ed, loved your book especially the part about the sick child who received the knife before he passed. Almost made me cry being a father myself. Cory
 
Thanks Cory Martin is remembered as a good kid as Ray and Martin senior did us all a fovor by sharing the experience.

No one can tell you which will work best for you in your shop with your steel. I only know what works and doesn't work for me and my stuff. Do some experiments in your shop, etch blades with the soft back draw and edge quench, Cut, Bend, Flex, compare the performance charastics and enjoy destroying blades until you have answered the issues for your self. Don't look at the investement as wasted time, you will learn a lot. Most important, enjoy the voyage.
 
There has been a lot of great information on this thread. Ed, I can tell this topic is one that is dear to your heart. It is without a doubt the one that you have taken the most interest in.

Bill, I knew that edge geometry was important, but did not realize that it is as important as you have stated. When you put it the way you did it sure does make sense though.

I think this forum teaches me more about knives than any of the rest. Thanks guys, I really do appreciate it.
 
It is for my Journeyman Stamp.
They had things messed up with my paper work and they are not sure if I test for my judging this year or next.....
I thought that I was supposed to test this year,which I can do the cutting test,But to go for the stamp at the Blade show I am not sure yet..
Bruce
 
Another thought to add to this discussion since there are quite a few going for their journeyman stamps.

When I was getting ready for the test I forged ground and heat treated several knives at the same time. Each were worked as exactly the same as I was able at that time. I then put one of them throught the entire test. If it did not pass, the rest went through the same test. This was an excellent learning experience. I had been using some "X' oil, when I got ready to make the test blades I bought gallon of new "X" oil just to give the test blades the best chance. All of my former test blades (with the old oil) had passed easily. Suddenly none of them would pass. I broke a lot of blades trying to get something to pass. Finally out of despiration I tried my old oil. the first blades passed.

I called the manufacturer, told him the new oil was different than the old. He informed me that they had changed from a slow oil to a fast oil a long time ago and no one else had complained. I asked why he did not change the label, he informed me it was not necessary.

That is why there is a 50 gallon drum of Texaco Type A quenching oil out side of my shop, enough to last me 100 years! Never again will I face an unknown variable if I can help it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top