Difficult to sharpen 440C after heat treat

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Jan 5, 2015
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I have made several batches of simple kitchen paring knives using 440C from Admiral (1/16" starting thickness). The first couple batches I ran up to 1850F in my Paragon furnace and held it there for 25 minutes. I then immediately air/plate quenched to room temp. I then immediately placed blades in dry ice/RV antifreeze which freezes at -50F for 24 hours. Then tempered twice at 300F for two hours each time. All went well and knifes sharpened well using Razor Sharp 80 grit grinding wheel and honing wheel. Super sharp.

The next couple batches I inserted a step after air/plate quench where I cooled the blade in deep freeze from room temp to approx 0F for a couple hours (or overnight on one batch) prior to cryo. The thought was to avoid possible warping when I had gone from room temp to -50F (even though I did not previously get warping - I know, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!). I also got a bit distracted on one batch and did not get the final temper completed (still as 300F twice for two hours) until a day later. The result was most of these knives being impossible to sharpen with the Razor Sharp grinding wheel. I was able to put an acceptable edge on these using my 2 x 72 belt grinder using 220 grit, then 300, then 600, then 1200. However, it was not crazy sharp like the first couple batches.

I then tried the same heat treat, air/plate quench, cool to 0F in deep freeze for a few hours, then -50F shallow cryo for 24 hours, then changed the temper to 400F twice for two hours each time to try to lower the RC hardness. No luck. I still could not sharpen with the grinding wheel (3000 rpm with 80 grit that I re-gritted several times thinking the grit had worn off too much).

I have been making knives for about 18 months and still need to get a RC hardness tester. I know, get the right tools so you can do the job right. However, at this point I cannot tell you what the resulting RC hardness was in any of the above described procedures. I am getting a tester this week to help diagnose the problem.

If it is not an issue of the RC being too high, the other idea I had is that the delay between air/plate quench and cryo (by putting the blades in my deep freezer), as well as the 24-48 hour delay between cryo and tempering could have caused carbides to form which are too hard to sharpen with the Razor Sharp grinding wheel.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your input.
 
The term cryo implies -300 F .But -50F or -100F it's called sub-zero ! After quench [leave in foil ] temper quickly otherwise you risk cracking.
Grinding after hardening should be done wet . Otherwise you will damage the HT !
 
First, it isn't cryo, as mete pointed out.
Second, there should be no long delay in getting the blade to -100°F. A short 30 minute snap temper at 300F will prevent cracking if that is a worry, but I rarely do this and have no problems. Placing blades in the freezer for 24 hours is a technique promoted by a certain old knifemaker, but it does nothing at all, metallurgically. The best method is to get the blade to -100F as smoothly and continuously as possible.
Third, -50F isn't really cold enough. You should be getting close to -100F with dry ice and denatured alcohol.
Last, if doing sub-zero treatment in dry ice slurry, there is no need to keep it there for a long time. Ten minutes is more than sufficient. The austenite to martensite transformation ends once the blade reaches around -100F, and longer holds do nothing more. If using liquid nitrogen at below -300F, a hold of three to six hours has benefit for the eta carbides.

The optimal HT procedure for most stainless steel is to pre-heat at around 1400F, ramp up to austenitization for 30-45 minutes, cool between thick aluminum bars for a few minutes, remove from the HT foil, and when at ambient place in dry-ice and alcohol or in liquid nitrogen. The more continuous the heat up and cool down is, the better the results. After the cold treatment, warm to room temperature and do two temper cycles for one hour each. A few stainless steels can benefit from three tempers. Between the temper cycles, quickly cool the blade in water and then do the next temper. Rapid cooling from temper is slightly more beneficial than slow cooling, but it really is mainly a time saver.

As an experiment, try bumping up your austenitization temp to 1875F. See if that helps.
 
Thanks for the help. I think I will skip the dry ice for a batch or two and get a RC tester and see how it goes. I had used RV antifreeze as it was suggested in lieu of acetone or alcohol somewhere (safer) and readily available, but it freezes at -50F. If I go back to doing "sub zero" (thanks for the correction), I will try denatured alcohol which I have in the shop for other uses. I will bump up the austenitization temp to 1875 and increase hold time to 30 min. The blade is quite thin for this type of knife so I have not previously done a hold at 1400F to get even heat through the thickness since it is so thin. I have just done max ramp heating with room temp furnace and room temp, wrapped blade up to 1850F. I will add a hold of 10 min at 1400F into the program. I will reduce temper time from 2 hours to 1 hour - not sure where I got 2 hours since I just re-read the Admiral HT instructions for their 440C and they say 1 hour at 300F for 60RC. Thanks again for the help!!
 
As far as being hard to sharpen I haven't had any problems with 440c. My ht is 1400 for 10 min, 1900 for 30 min, plate quench, dry ice/denatured alcohol and temper twice at 400. This gives me about 57-58. Sharpen with a 400 grit belt on the grinder.
 
Probably you should understand what kind of difficulty you have. Sharpening problems you mostly have for different reasons

RA, a lot of it and you wont' be able to reach a stable apex
Soft steel, pretty much the same as RA in terms of sharpening issues
Huge carbides, they crumble leaving a ragged, softer matrix behind...a lousy edge
Too hard, brittle steel, will chip way before reaching a keen/sharp edge.

You should be able to feel (maybe to see with a loupe) what's your issue and review the HT accordingly.
 
Is the edge geometry the same on all of the blades? I might have missed it, but I didn't see edge thickness, or sharpening angle.
 
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