Diffrent steel

[The Mastiff]

Farid,

Thanks for taking the time to answer the questions not only from me, but from the other posters and readers of this thread.

The video surprised me. You were doing some very hard hitting there. I can see why you are good at the competitions. The steel held up to the mat? How did it do against the pipe? Even a lot of tougher steels and knives would have had trouble with that. I couldn't even estimate the ft lbs of impact on the pipe but it had to be pretty high as hard as you were swinging. That's not something we often see with the super high wear steels. D3 in a Bushcraft knife isn't exactly common either but you obviously are making it work.

It seems you do things against the current of the groupthink but as I said before you always seem to make it work.

By the way, please save me some of that T1 for after the first of the year if possible. I still want to give some of it a try.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[Noctis3880]

Hi Joe,

Ok, first the T-1, This steel has 18% Tungsten so it is around 10% heavier than most steels because of high percentage of (W). provided that it heat-treated correctly it will cut for a very long time and I really like this steel.
REX 121 comes to me at around 57-58RC in the annealed state, you will use lots of ceramic belts, before heat-treating and specially after.

Thicker bevel ? well, in my experience thinner works much better but I know what you are saying. Here is a movie of me using a CPM-10v cutting competition chopper to cut 15mm copper water pipe, this 10v chopper had a thicker edge. I know what you are saying.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcCjUOp5F2U


Test No-1,
I can only tell you about 15v and REX 121, if you were to test these two steels both the same thickness, the ‘same hardness’ and sharpened to a high polished edge, REX 121 at 68- 70RC and 15v to 64-65RC, the REX 121 would cut a lot longer than 15v. because of its matrix (alloy composition) and hardness.

Test No-2,
If you were to test two blades 15v and REX 121, heat-treat the 15v to full hardness and heat-treat the REX 121 to full hardness which is 71.5RC, although this hardness is not advisable, but as a test the performance of the REX 121 would be in my experience around 40-50% more than 15v.
I wanted to start using CPM-REX 121 because there was no other steel out there which could come anywhere near the hardness and wear resistance, not easy to work with before or after heat-treating.
Take care

I'm a bit confused. How would a chopper like say, the ESEE Junglas in 1095 react to the copper pipe compared to the 10V and CPM Rex 121 choppers? I'm just not sure what benefits the 10V chopper would present over plain old 1095, mostly because I would expect good toughness and hardness range would matter more when cutting a copper pipe, but that's just me.

 

[farid.]

Hi Joe, how you doing this evening buddy,
That use to be my last competition chopper, it was very hard to grind as it was CPM-10v steel, It did very well as you can see from the video, one or two very very small mark on the very edge but that’s all, there again I was cutting a 15mm round copper pipe.

I have been using D3 and D6 for quite some time now and they are incredible provided you understand what the steel can and cannot do, my buddy in the U.S uses one for bushcraft and he cannot make them blunt very easily.

Talk to me about the T-1 HSS when you are ready, take care buddy have a good weekend.
Farid

Farid,

Thanks for taking the time to answer the questions not only from me, but from the other posters and readers of this thread.

The video surprised me. You were doing some very hard hitting there. I can see why you are good at the competitions. The steel held up to the mat? How did it do against the pipe? Even a lot of tougher steels and knives would have had trouble with that. I couldn't even estimate the ft lbs of impact on the pipe but it had to be pretty high as hard as you were swinging. That's not something we often see with the super high wear steels. D3 in a Bushcraft knife isn't exactly common either but you obviously are making it work.

It seems you do things against the current of the groupthink but as I said before you always seem to make it work.

By the way, please save me some of that T1 for after the first of the year if possible. I still want to give some of it a try.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[farid.]

I'm a bit confused. How would a chopper like say, the ESEE Junglas in 1095 react to the copper pipe compared to the 10V and CPM Rex 121 choppers? I'm just not sure what benefits the 10V chopper would present over plain old 1095, mostly because I would expect good toughness and hardness range would matter more when cutting a copper pipe, but that's just me.

Good question my friend, there is nothing wrong with 1095 provided it is heat-treated correctly, although it won’t have the same performance as 9v or 10v. As you know I have been labelled a few times in the past by members as the mad scientist of knife and steel, instead of saying things and making comments on things I have not actually done before, I make sure that I actually put these high end steels to the test, it is important to cut hard plastics, it is important to cut copper pipes, it is important to cut aluminium bars and actually try to break the blade in half and see how far it bends before it breaks, These tests are actually very important when you are trying to find out what a particular steel does and doesn’t do.
In my experience every high carbide steel I have used actually bends to some degree before it breaks, how fare they bend depends on the grade of steel, final hardness and the number of tempering cycles, these are just some of the things to consider, I can write a book on all these tests I have carried out and it would be an interesting read.
Take care my friend

 

[neuron]

Good question my friend, there is nothing wrong with 1095 provided it is heat-treated correctly, although it won’t have the same performance as 9v or 10v. As you know I have been labelled a few times in the past by members as the mad scientist of knife and steel, instead of saying things and making comments on things I have not actually done before, I make sure that I actually put these high end steels to the test, it is important to cut hard plastics, it is important to cut copper pipes, it is important to cut aluminium bars and actually try to break the blade in half and see how far it bends before it breaks, These tests are actually very important when you are trying to find out what a particular steel does and doesn’t do.
In my experience every high carbide steel I have used actually bends to some degree before it breaks, how fare they bend depends on the grade of steel, final hardness and the number of tempering cycles, these are just some of the things to consider, I can write a book on all these tests I have carried out and it would be an interesting read.
Take care my friend

I'd buy that book.