Disappointed

Makael said:
With all of the buffing that goes on compound definately gets into the action, I always use hot water, dawn and a tooth brush. Dry. Then flush with WD40. Dry that and then lightly oil. The entire process I open and shut the blade repeatedly during the process.
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Agreed. That cleaning process always works for me.
I have a drawer I store my knives in.
I always store my auto in the open position when not in use. So if the spring were to get any memory it would not be in the closed position.
I've read it shouldn't. But since I have been doing that it always opens very well.
 
Almost need a sticky for cleaning and oiling as there seems to be this Complaint or question comes around regular like. It is common for finishing and polishing compound that gets into the action to gum it up. The only concern for using soapy water would be if the handle materials were not stabilized materials and letting them soak and swell. If it’s done in a short time and dried quickly It wouldn’t be a problem. Then I’d treat it with a good protective oil to resist absorption.
 
I've never used soap and water on a knife to clean it. Water and most steel arent friends. I just use a heavy amount of oil and blow it out with canned compressed air, and air hose, or a straw. Work it several times and reapply until clean, usually one or two times does the trick.

I'm sure the factory can do it because I have gotten several with no compound. Oil and a compressor would work.
 
GPyro said:
Agreed. That cleaning process always works for me.
I have a drawer I store my knives in.
I always store my auto in the open position when not in use. So if the spring were to get any memory it would not be in the closed position.
I've read it shouldn't. But since I have been doing that it always opens very well.
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quality springs.......keeping closed has zero effect. I can verify many autos I own that stay closed for years and work just fine and just as fast. its open and closed as a whole as in cycling that wears springs out over time. rapid firing and closing over and over also will wear the life out much faster.
 
A soap and water scrubbing won't hurt any knife. Rinse it thoroughly and dry it good. Oil it up and it's fine.

Soap and water won't hurt a Buck knife, period.

There are a very few exceptions, but Buck blade steels are stainless. The rest of the metal parts are brass, stainless, or nickel silver, none of which is harmed by clean water. Scale materials aren't harmed by water exposure during the time needed in even a vigorous scrubbing and rinsing. Tropical woods, like ebony, are generally stable as heck without being 'stabilized'.

I've got a two dot 110 that has been my hunting knife since it was bought new many years ago. I remember a hunting trip once that involved me falling in a slough, a two mile slog out of there, and a long drive home. By the time I even thought about the knife it had been wet for hours. It suffered no ill effects. That was hardly the only time that knife got wet, and it still functions perfectly.

It's funny to read worries about the durability of various parts of Buck knives. It may be a oversimplification, but they guarantee these things forever. They haven't made many mistakes over the years.

They're meant to be used for a lifetime. Stop worrying over trifles.
 
I wo
dsutton24 said:
A soap and water scrubbing won't hurt any knife. Rinse it thoroughly and dry it good. Oil it up and it's fine.

Soap and water won't hurt a Buck knife, period.

There are a very few exceptions, but Buck blade steels are stainless. The rest of the metal parts are brass, stainless, or nickel silver, none of which is harmed by clean water. Scale materials aren't harmed by water exposure during the time needed in even a vigorous scrubbing and rinsing. Tropical woods, like ebony, are generally stable as heck without being 'stabilized'.

I've got a two dot 110 that has been my hunting knife since it was bought new many years ago. I remember a hunting trip once that involved me falling in a slough, a two mile slog out of there, and a long drive home. By the time I even thought about the knife it had been wet for hours. It suffered no ill effects. That was hardly the only time that knife got wet, and it still functions perfectly.

It's funny to read worries about the durability of various parts of Buck knives. It may be a oversimplification, but they guarantee these things forever. They haven't made many mistakes over the years.

They're meant to be used for a lifetime. Stop worrying over trifles.
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I’d have to disagree with you on being completely indestructible and rust proof. I have a set of Buck kitchen knives 420hc that my ex girlfriend left a couple in a sink of soapy dawn dishwater. They rusted real bad and I had to use some penetrating oil with a scotchbrite pad to remove the rust. It etched them deep enough to leave a definite impression. The paperstone handles were okay but along the tang it rusted. My buddy had an older boning knife I can’t remember the model but it had a wood handle, looked like walnut, that swelled and warped away from the tang. He had it re-handled with micarta. So yes they can absorb water and swell if it is not stabilized and soaks for a time. Now I’ll agree that a regular washing and drying won’t hurt but you don’t want to leave them soak or use soap that has VOCs or salts for the active ingredient, some can even dissolve resins over time.
 
Something must be in your soap or water. Because ours have soaked over night in water among food material in the sink and I washed them the next day. This had no effect.? No rust and the handles were not coming loose. DM
 
David Martin said:
Something must be in your soap or water. Because ours have soaked over night in water among food material in the sink and I washed them the next day. This had no effect.? No rust and the handles were not coming loose. DM
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^could be. I have limestone hard water chlorinated like a swimming pool in taste and it tends to rust spot quickly 420hc.
 
Th
David Martin said:
Something must be in your soap or water. Because ours have soaked over night in water among food material in the sink and I washed them the next day. This had no effect.? No rust and the handles were not coming loose. DM
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There are times when our city water supply gets a heavier dose of chlorine and you can smell it. This along with a surfactant soap and it was two days we were gone before I noticed. My main point being the length of time because I hand wash my knives all the time in dawn dish soap and immediately dry them and never had any problems even on bone or antler handles with non stainless blades.
 
Lesknife said:
I wo

I’d have to disagree with you on being completely indestructible and rust proof. I have a set of Buck kitchen knives 420hc that my ex girlfriend left a couple in a sink of soapy dawn dishwater. They rusted real bad and I had to use some penetrating oil with a scotchbrite pad to remove the rust. It etched them deep enough to leave a definite impression. The paperstone handles were okay but along the tang it rusted. My buddy had an older boning knife I can’t remember the model but it had a wood handle, looked like walnut, that swelled and warped away from the tang. He had it re-handled with micarta. So yes they can absorb water and swell if it is not stabilized and soaks for a time. Now I’ll agree that a regular washing and drying won’t hurt but you don’t want to leave them soak or use soap that has VOCs or salts for the active ingredient, some can even dissolve resins over time.
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Now, where did I say anything about anything 'being completely indestructible and rustproof?'

I never said anything about soaking knives. Just in case anyone missed it, don't soak knives. Anything up to, and including a vigorous scrubbing in soap and water won't harm a knife. The key, as any number of people have said above, is a thorough rinsing, drying, and oiling.

I'm an industrial maintenance man by trade, been doing it for over forty years. I've seen what people are capable of doing to well designed, well maintained, massive machinery. The word indestructible doesn't get used much in our world, people are pretty inventive when it comes to destruction. A week ago I had to deal with a 900 pound cast iron gear case that had been in service for 52 years. It got broken by a green kid with an idea and a dead blow hammer. He knew this gear case was well behaved, and never went back together hard. Well, that ended abruptly.

If you exercise even minimum common sense a Buck knife is a tool for life. The same is true of nearly any other knife.
 
dsutton24 said:
Now, where did I say anything about anything 'being completely indestructible and rustproof?'

I never said anything about soaking knives. Just in case anyone missed it, don't soak knives. Anything up to, and including a vigorous scrubbing in soap and water won't harm a knife. The key, as any number of people have said above, is a thorough rinsing, drying, and oiling.

I'm an industrial maintenance man by trade, been doing it for over forty years. I've seen what people are capable of doing to well designed, well maintained, massive machinery. The word indestructible doesn't get used much in our world, people are pretty inventive when it comes to destruction. A week ago I had to deal with a 900 pound cast iron gear case that had been in service for 52 years. It got broken by a green kid with an idea and a dead blow hammer. He knew this gear case was well behaved, and never went back together hard. Well, that ended abruptly.

If you exercise even minimum common sense a Buck knife is a tool for life. The same is true of nearly any other knife.
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I have very similar experience in the heavy equipment mechanical repairs among many other qualifications and I understand what you are saying. I’ve also been a supervisor, instructor, and trainer teaching the new guys. I think we are actually in agreement just in different aspects. This question is asked by those who don’t have 40 + years experience and in my job we tell the new guys there isn’t any stupid questions and don’t assume anything. I’ve found it prevents those bad experiences by not assuming everyone knows what someone else knows. I entered that bit of information so someone wouldn’t take it the wrong way and ruin a good knife that maybe they could gain some insight as to the reason why not just because I say so.
Anyway I think it’s been covered well and hopefully the OP and others inquiring have a better grasp of knife maintenance.
 
Ok guys I will give you an update.
As I stated previously I purchased this knife from a Fredericksburg Va dealer on line. Two full months to get it. So the day after I started the thread, I jumped in my truck and drove to Fredericksburg and pulled into the parking lot of The Knife Center . Com. I had not called ahead because I like to make bad things worse lol. I’ve been working very little during the Covid nonsense so I had the time and really just wanted to get out. They are about 2.5 hours away and I figured worse case scenario I would visit the battlefields.
From their parking lot, I called and got an answer. I explained the situation and they said no problem, they would pull another one for me and even examine it before shipping it on to me. I told the gal I was in the parking lot and she told me that normally it would be no problem to deal with me in person, but the Governor had issued his orders and under no circumstances would they let me in or would they come out. I wanted to protest and whine about it, but good sense caused me to take it in stride. I knew this could be the case when I left home. Needless to say I totally enjoyed my day touring and educating myself about the battlefields around Fredericksburg. Covid has renewed my interest in the Civil War and I have visited several of the battlefields that are within a days drive. I’m currently reading a book called The War Hits Home, which is exclusively about my hometown of Suffolk.
The Knife Center emailed me a return shipping label and I boxed up my 112 auto and sent it back to them. I received my replacement in exactly 1 week. I’m very happy with it, and I’m happy with The Knife Center. I will say this about the 112. I prefer the 110. It’s just a better fit for my hand. I have several automatics, Some cost more than my Bucks, but my 110 is my favorite. It just works.
 
Lt B said:
Ok guys I will give you an update.
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Glad you got it taken care of.
I was stationed at Ft. Holabird, late 60s-early 70s. Loved to travel to the battlefields and other historic sites around that area.
 
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