disassembly question

F

fmfbest

Joined
Apr 30, 2007
Messages
18
I noticed some rust on my blade at the pivot today so I went to take it apart to clean it. When I turn the wrench the smooth side of the nut spins with the allen head side and it only loosens a little bit. How do I get past this?
 
Sorry I forgot to add it was a sebbie. I've read through that and didn't see a way to keep both sides of the nuts from spinning.
 
usually for me applying thumb pressure on the other side at the same time is enough to keep that side from spinning.
 
Thumb pressure wasn't enough. I like the duct tape though. I've got some old stuff in the garage thats almost too sticky to use for tape purposes. You know how it can get in the heat. I'll try it.
 
Well the duct tape didn't work. I bought this regular sebbie user grade off another forum member and was very happy until now. I'm starting to think there is loctite in this thing. This is my first Reeve folder and my first attempt at disassembly. How does everyone else prevent this spinning? I mean does it happen to all of them? With nothing to stop the pins from spinning I don't know how it would not happen to them all? I never gave it much thought until now.
 
fmfbest said:
Well the duct tape didn't work. I bought this regular sebbie user grade off another forum member and was very happy until now. I'm starting to think there is loctite in this thing. This is my first Reeve folder and my first attempt at disassembly. How does everyone else prevent this spinning? I mean does it happen to all of them? With nothing to stop the pins from spinning I don't know how it would not happen to them all? I never gave it much thought until now.
Click to expand...

Mine come right out. No unwanted spinning at all.
 
fmfbest said:
I'm starting to think there is loctite in this thing.
Click to expand...

the quick way to test is to heat up a nail w/ a propane torch (red hot and then let it cool to where the color is gone) and then put the nail tip into the screw head for 5-10 seconds. then, immediately try to loosen.
 
There shouldn't be any loctite in it unless you purchased 2nd hand from some idiot or... whatever... The only way I'd heat it is by putting the knife in boiling water for a few minutes. If there's loctite, it should loosen and hopefully you'll open it.
 
RobME said:
There shouldn't be any loctite in it unless you purchased 2nd hand from some idiot or... whatever... The only way I'd heat it is by putting the knife in boiling water for a few minutes. If there's loctite, it should loosen and hopefully you'll open it.
Click to expand...

water won't cut it. red loctite has a melting temp over 300F
 
I'll go through some of these tomorrow and see. I hope if some idiot did put loctite on it that it was the blue stuff not the red. I'm thinking that maybe I shouldn't put off having the blade retumbled at the shop. I tell you it was a sick feeling seeing that rust up in the pivot. I'm a full time swat cop in NC and yesterday was pretty hot and humid here. I spent all day in and out of tac gear so I was soaked when I got home. I'd never worried about it before but my BM975 work EDC was black-T'ed so rust never concerned me much.
 
I wonder if it is not rust but maybe corrosion from the washers. When I took apart my brother's, which is used in a salt water environment, what we thought was rust was really corrosion from the washers. Everything polished right up with some flitz and is smoother than before. Good luck!
 
Itz hell and back,i have been there many times with other knives,never a sebb,the hardest was a arc angel trying to put the clip on the safe handle finally broke it,good luck..............
 
This worked for me on a Microtech once that was lock-tited
Take a Bic Liter and heat the small part of the allen key, After it nice hot insert it in the screw and let it sit awhile to transfer the heat. When your ready to try loosing it give it a FAST JERK while holding the round side with your thumb, Ya have to jerk it to break it loose. I alway lube all the screws when it put them back in. I use RIG on all the screws and they come out great the next time. GOOD-LUCK.....................

:D:D:D Rickster :D:D:D
 
Generally, I think the inside of the female binds up well enough on the Ti to create enough friction to overcome the threads. The screws in my Sebenas have always behaved this way, as far as I can recall. There was one exception, when I got some lube on the inside of the head of one of the females. That one spun, but I was still able to get it with burly thumb pressure.

So, it might be that there's some lube in yours, or it might also be that there's some foreign material in the threads that won't respond to heat... or possibly they are cross-threaded, but I guess that's less likely.

One thing you might try is cutting two small blocks of wood. Drill a hole in one of the blocks a little larger in diameter than the head of the funky screw, and then clamp the blocks together around the knife, so that there's good pressure on the female, but you can still access the head. I would expect that to create enough friction even to allow you to strip the threads.
 
If you have a hex-driver and not one of the "L" shaped drivers you can try giving it a tap as you turn it. That can somethimes free up a sticky screw, one of those drivers that turns when you hit it would be even better if you can get one.

If that dosn't do it then it probably is lock-tited and you will need to brace the female side of the screw real good with a jig of some sort. The other option is to heat it in an attempt to soften the LT, using a soldering iron in usually the best way to do it.

Worst case, you have to drill it out and get a new pivot from CRK.
 
The wooden jig worked. I drilled out the oversize hole in a piece of 1/2" x 1" wood then laid a rubber bicycle inner tube down on my work bench, then laid the sebbie on it, and clamped the wooden jig over it with sqeezable c clamps. It came out on the first try. It was difficult to tell but there may have been a very very small amount of blue loctite on it. It almost looked like it was an attempt to prevent the spinning by applying loctite to the female nut but from the opened male side. I could only see it inside the pivot hole on the lock side (hex side). I'm guessing some made its way into the first thread and locked it up. Rust is now removed and re-oiled so I'm happy. I'll check the other bolts later. Thanks for the idea tsiloics.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top