Dissection of a Gerber LMF II

E.Carlson

E.Carlson

Joined
Mar 28, 2016
Messages
811
This knife sits next to my woodstove and has been used for nothing besides splitting kindling for many years. The handle finally started getting loose so I decided to see if I could rehandle it because, why not?
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Hmmm... not what I was expecting. Looks like I may need to make my first hidden tang. The pommel is probably a lost cause.
I'm headed to the cabin for a few days so I have plenty of time to think it over.
I'm open to any suggestions!
 
Timbear said:
I think Gerber has a lifetime warranty.
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*lol*
this was clever, though not sure it was intended that way.

Personally, I would grind the guards flush and then use the original guard/handle attachment holes as new tang shoulders, and grind/file off the excess. From there, do a hidden tang. Not sure it would be as strong as the original, but it would look a lot better and give you a lot of handle options.
 
daizee said:
*lol*
this was clever, though not sure it was intended that way.

Personally, I would grind the guards flush and then use the original guard/handle attachment holes as new tang shoulders, and grind/file off the excess. From there, do a hidden tang. Not sure it would be as strong as the original, but it would look a lot better and give you a lot of handle options.
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Ha I'm not that clever... Just mentioned it in case he didn't want to fool with it and probably get a brand new knife :) +1 on your advice ^^^ I think it would be stronger if he did it himself :)
 
it would be easier to do a frame handle with 3 pieces of wood. you would omit making the hidden tang slot which is not much fun, and avoid reshaping the tang.
 
When you guys do frames are the layers held together mechanically or just epoxy? I was thinking about doing one to use different wood in the center.
 
i put pins around the handle plus epoxy so its a mechanically secure piece. i have seen it done with just wood and epoxy too, so it will work both ways.
 
I would do a mortised handle ( or a frame handle) and use Corby bolts through the four holes (three in the tang and one on the pommel).
Use good 24 hour epoxy and screw the Corby's down snug.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I would do a mortised handle ( or a frame handle) and use Corby bolts through the four holes (three in the tang and one on the pommel).
Use good 24 hour epoxy and screw the Corby's down snug.
Click to expand...
I think that is what I'm going to try, but I think I'll try to drill a new corby hole in the tang. The 2 front holes were never used for bolts, but were holes for lashing the knife for a tacticool spear. I plan on grinding the little nubs flush and I'm afraid it the holes will end up too close to the edges.
 
GotSteel said:
I was thinking of buying one until I saw that tiny tang, thanks! Subbd
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Although I'm not impressed with how it is put together, I can say that this knife has withstood a life of abuse that I would never attempt to put another knife through. Literally nothing but battoning for the past 6 years. I wouldn't try to claim warranty because I feel it lived up to its purpose.
I believe the tang and pommel are separated to keep the handle completely insulated from electric shock.
 
Yeah that makes sense, I'm pretty sure they switched steels on it too from sandvik to 420hc or something like that I don't know how much different they are but remember reading that the 420 rolls easier, but a lot of people swear by them so it must be good, maybe I'll still buy one, up between that and Ontario M3
 
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