DIY Camp Shelter

An actual tent is straight up cheaper.

Otherwise I am getting in to tarp camping but am going a fairly expensive route.

Alton bug bivy, valhalla hootchie, sea to summit mat and pillow. It is getting up to about $400.

Having the mat and two pillows. (Side sleeper. Has really helped me not just give up on the idea.
 
Anyway. We have a company over here called Tas. Who do a hootchie for about $50 which is perfectly serviceable.

 
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Ok. Here is my tip. Which is a cool trick my brother showed me.

For your tarp. Get twice as much cord as you need. Fold it in half then at the loop end tie a granny knot. Leave a space, tie a knot and so on.

Eventually you will have an adjustable cord you can quickly tie your tarp down with and then just as quickly release it.

Just leave them tied to your tarp and you have just saved yourself a huge amount of effort.
 
They should have all got naked and cuddled. Body heat and all that.

My answer was similar to barleywino. Dig into the snow, set the tarp up over the hole, lay down my pad, and climb in my bag. I'd be dead, wouldn't I? It's tricky because you can't just start a fire on the snow, even if you could gather enough wood and you had the time to process it. You'd need to get down to solid ground first and then clear enough space around it to prevent the fire from drowning in melted snow. It depends a lot on how deep the snow is and how hard it is packed, and how much time you have which is basically no time at all from the scenario.

Of course if you have a camp stove then you could make your shelter really small and burn the stove for warmth. But would you suffocate?
Boil water and make a hot water bottle.
 
Perhaps if you were wearing a poncho, you could sit on your pack and set the lit stove (on very low setting) between your legs underneath the poncho? you would probably want to be wearing a down hood or something similar also
Good thinking, but your face would still get frost bite, I bet. I don't know if a poncho would really provide enough insulation either. And then there is the worry about melting a hole in it.

Of course the tricky thing about burning a camp/backpacking stove is that it uses oxygen and makes carbon monoxide, which is odorless and requires a detector to alert you about unsafe levels. You're not supposed to use portable stoves in an enclosed area for that reason alone. It's not safe. You could die. That's why I think suffocation would be a real concern. You need a way to circulate enough air, but doing that is going to let your heat out and the cold in.

I also wonder about the viability of using tea candles... You can boil water with them. It just takes a while. Something which builds up heat that slow... could you make it work?
 
Good thinking, but your face would still get frost bite, I bet. I don't know if a poncho would really provide enough insulation either. And then there is the worry about melting a hole in it.

Of course the tricky thing about burning a camp/backpacking stove is that it uses oxygen and makes carbon monoxide, which is odorless and requires a detector to alert you about unsafe levels. You're not supposed to use portable stoves in an enclosed area for that reason alone. It's not safe. You could die. That's why I think suffocation would be a real concern. You need a way to circulate enough air, but doing that is going to let your heat out and the cold in.

I also wonder about the viability of using tea candles... You can boil water with them. It just takes a while. Something which builds up heat that slow... could you make it work?
I have heard you can put them under a plant pot and then it retains the heat.
 
A few thoughts quickly, environment is really key, humidity is a major factor that has to be planned for, or ignored and weight saved, but you need to know that ahead of time.
Heating air is pointless if you have to circulate it, so a propane radiant heater can be useful since most of the heat is not lost to the cold air. Still not ideal in a sleeping situation though unless not waking up is alright with you. (be kind to your local SAR team, body recovery makes it hard for them to keep people) but a straight stove is just, well, suicidal.
PRACTICE, actually sleep outside in a range of local conditions, a few hundred feet of elevation change can have a huge difference, as can valleys, draws and other features, these need to be learned to avoid waking up in the early morning in areas prone to thermal inversion, or again, planned around.
Know your body type, some guys can generate heat, some cannot, but if you are thinking you will get sleep with an open flame near you... bad move. This really depends on you, the hot water bottle method doesn't work for everyone, and in fact is worse for some guys. I'm a small dude with little thermal mass, and a very slow metabolic response curve, if I start with external heat, I'll be cold later, if start a little cool but with enough insulation, I'll be fine, but odds are I'll be low on insulation and still cold. Life is tough. You have to know yourself to make it work. I've camped from sub-arctic to sub tropic, and been overheated and hypothermic in both. Until you know your body's response, you cannot know what you will do. I grew up in a house with wood heat, so my body wakes me up when cold, but that was 15? years of training, most people just stay asleep, maybe forever. That's not a "survival mechanism" it's just me, it's not a value judgment. It's saved my ass at least once, but so would have better prep.

Having a pocket full of techniques is good, you will never know what will be the right option on a given day. That having been said, there is no substitute for experience, and you need to try a bunch of things to find out what works for you, and in fairness, I know a lot of guys who 20 years ago were good with a foam sheet and a tarp, but these days need a bit more gear to be functional the next day, and these are not hobby guys, they are pros, but age does shitty things to your body.

D Drop bear , if walking I'm rolling an older tarptent notch, but when vehicle based, it's all canvas for me with a Burke and Wills single. Even in real QLD heat the canvas just handles the humidity much better than nylon. I'm honestly shocked that canvas bedrolls are not still common in the arctic as the advantage of getting a fire reflector and the added spark safety is really key. But then again, when you hit the really deep snow, most guys are happy with a few big skins, so I guess that helps.
 
A few thoughts quickly, environment is really key, humidity is a major factor that has to be planned for, or ignored and weight saved, but you need to know that ahead of time.
Heating air is pointless if you have to circulate it, so a propane radiant heater can be useful since most of the heat is not lost to the cold air. Still not ideal in a sleeping situation though unless not waking up is alright with you. (be kind to your local SAR team, body recovery makes it hard for them to keep people) but a straight stove is just, well, suicidal.
PRACTICE, actually sleep outside in a range of local conditions, a few hundred feet of elevation change can have a huge difference, as can valleys, draws and other features, these need to be learned to avoid waking up in the early morning in areas prone to thermal inversion, or again, planned around.
Know your body type, some guys can generate heat, some cannot, but if you are thinking you will get sleep with an open flame near you... bad move. This really depends on you, the hot water bottle method doesn't work for everyone, and in fact is worse for some guys. I'm a small dude with little thermal mass, and a very slow metabolic response curve, if I start with external heat, I'll be cold later, if start a little cool but with enough insulation, I'll be fine, but odds are I'll be low on insulation and still cold. Life is tough. You have to know yourself to make it work. I've camped from sub-arctic to sub tropic, and been overheated and hypothermic in both. Until you know your body's response, you cannot know what you will do. I grew up in a house with wood heat, so my body wakes me up when cold, but that was 15? years of training, most people just stay asleep, maybe forever. That's not a "survival mechanism" it's just me, it's not a value judgment. It's saved my ass at least once, but so would have better prep.

Having a pocket full of techniques is good, you will never know what will be the right option on a given day. That having been said, there is no substitute for experience, and you need to try a bunch of things to find out what works for you, and in fairness, I know a lot of guys who 20 years ago were good with a foam sheet and a tarp, but these days need a bit more gear to be functional the next day, and these are not hobby guys, they are pros, but age does shitty things to your body.

D Drop bear , if walking I'm rolling an older tarptent notch, but when vehicle based, it's all canvas for me with a Burke and Wills single. Even in real QLD heat the canvas just handles the humidity much better than nylon. I'm honestly shocked that canvas bedrolls are not still common in the arctic as the advantage of getting a fire reflector and the added spark safety is really key. But then again, when you hit the really deep snow, most guys are happy with a few big skins, so I guess that helps.

I am thinking the tarp space should air me out a bit better.

I did a canvas stretcher tent car camping and that was too hot.
 
I am thinking the tarp space should air me out a bit better.

I did a canvas stretcher tent car camping and that was too hot.
Yeah, the Notch is a fully mesh inner, so all I'm doing is taking the easier set-up for a tarp and the advantage of supported bug netting (because I don't need to spend all night breathing mozzies) And for the swag, if it's hot I'll leave it with the canvas fully open if the weather seems clear, and if that changes, it's two seconds to flip it back into place, plus I can still use it as a windbreak. Basically doing exactly what you are doing, just a little different. I don't think I'd enjoy the swag as much if I couldn't fully vent it.
 
The style of shelter is very relative and totally particular.
For the last 10 years I have only used hammocks and a tarpaulin roof, even in winter. But our winter in southern Brazil is close to -6, -7 degrees Celsius, generally staying around 0 degrees Celsius. In summer around 30 degrees Celsius.
I have used several styles of shelter, each with its own style of simplicity in a favorable environment.

Current, with a fire pit nearby to keep me warm:



With natural resources:





With simple canvas used in civil construction:



 
Hypothetical. Your group is walking in a snow-covered wood, temperature's about 10 degrees. Suddenly, a freak chill comes in and temperature drops to -30 degrees. What do you do? Assume the usual camping tools and equipment available.
Wake up from the nap on the beach in Belize to find the guide grilling fresh caught mahi for fish tacos. I was cold once, and I didn't like it.
 
Hypothetical. Your group is walking in a snow-covered wood, temperature's about 10 degrees. Suddenly, a freak chill comes in and temperature drops to -30 degrees. What do you do? Assume the usual camping tools and equipment available.
I know people who have been in this situation, I'm guessing you are in F, not C, but it's close enough at that point to not matter. If this is a true freak chill, then you are dead because even on a chilly day in Queensland it's not hitting -30 and even a massive fire will not keep everyone alive. The other latent conditions just would not permit it. If this is the kind of freak chill that rips through the Rockies or hits the Atlantic coasts, (eastern Canada, UK) then you are at least possibly partly ready.
Step one is Bothy the main group in the large tarp, get a human heat zone going in the best place possible, most of the folks just being ground anchors, a few making the place more comfortable. Outside you have a rotating group (based on group size, twos or more, but not much more) making a wind break with the available tools, evaluating firewood sources.
Additional "inside" tasks is getting comms to rescue, preparing food for those on outside rotations, and health checks. External tasks would also be getting exact location if GPS was not available/reliable.
Once an initial windbreak/fire reflector is set, then it can be evaluated as to the ease of making a more ideal shelter, or clearing ground/setting groundsheets and digging in for the duration. I'm assuming a group of 8 or more, if you are running a group of less than that with no comms, then chances are getting very dicey, but still, bothy most of the group to create a warming pocket and run a high frequency of rotation for outside tasks, this allows those outside to utilize some of the insulation layers of those who are inside the temporary shelter. At -30 if you can avoid frostbite, you are well ahead of the game.
As for the Swedish skiers, I'm not familiar with that story, so I cannot say what they did "wrong" all I can say is that when you get that temp swing, you are well into "survival not guaranteed" territory, as some humans (probably me included) just cannot adapt that fast. I mean, if everyone has a good skill set and can organize, you have a decent shot at holding out for a while, but there are just too many variable to say that any level of prep makes it certain.
 
The Anaris accident in Sweden (February 1978.) I don't know why there's a lack of online material on the subject, but for one youtube documentary. It's considered a "soft" version of the more controversial 1959 Djatlov Pass Accident. Eerily, it involved the same number of hikers/skiers. The main difference between the two is that search and rescue in Anaris arrived within hours, whereas in Djatlov, it took two months. I had nightmares about Djatlov until more objective articles (and more scientific findings) finally went online, explaining the most likely cause of the accident.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dyatlov_Pass_incident
 
Isn't there those weird emergency tents. That almost wrap around you?

That's what is also called a portable bothy, and using a tarp for the same technique is something that does get taught. I know a guy who needed to buy an hour or to get things sorted, and a bag like that made the difference between him and his group surviving and possibly not, they got caught in a snow storm in very damp conditions, and the group panicking was a very real risk. He was able to orient, get rescue started, and create a more stable shelter and everyone was fine.
 
As far as Djatlov or maybe anaris, conditions like that happen in the rockies as well, but you are also talking lightning strike bad luck, so you can only prepare so much, and in modern times, you'd likely get several hours warning that the low pressure zone was building, and thus be able to make plans, where they would have had almost no chance at predicting that.
 
I have heard you can put them under a plant pot and then it retains the heat.
Yeah I've seen videos on that before but I never tried it. So... I just went down to the store and grabbed a couple of clay flower pots. I'm going to try this in the next couple of days.

I saw some warnings that doing it with tea candles can be a little dangerous because the wax can get too hot and the fumes can cause a flash fire. I think maybe the key to avoiding that is keeping enough space between the candles and the lip of the flower pots, so that the candles don't have a chance to overheat.

I also got a few cans of sterno to try it with. I have a carbon monoxide alarm ready as well, and a backup alarm in case the first one fails. I'll also have two small fire extinguishers on standby.
 
Yeah I've seen videos on that before but I never tried it. So... I just went down to the store and grabbed a couple of clay flower pots. I'm going to try this in the next couple of days.

I saw some warnings that doing it with tea candles can be a little dangerous because the wax can get too hot and the fumes can cause a flash fire. I think maybe the key to avoiding that is keeping enough space between the candles and the lip of the flower pots, so that the candles don't have a chance to overheat.

I also got a few cans of sterno to try it with. I have a carbon monoxide alarm ready as well, and a backup alarm in case the first one fails. I'll also have two small fire extinguishers on standby.
I assume the pot might blow up if there are air bubbles in it as well.

But hey. Live risk. Right?
 
I assume the pot might blow up if there are air bubbles in it as well.

But hey. Live risk. Right?

You had me worried for a minute there. I had to go look that up.

Based on what I am seeing, the danger isn't from trapped air, otherwise you'd probably already have had the pot explode inside the kiln before you had a chance to buy it. The danger is in having water trapped inside the pot from watering plants in it. The trapped water then expands and vaporizes when the pots are heated. With nowhere to go, the expansion of the trapped water can cause a pressure buildup, and subsequently, an explosion.

The pots I will be testing this with have never been used before. They're brand new. So that shouldn't be an issue.
 
I have heard you can put them under a plant pot and then it retains the heat.

Literally doesn't work for heating a room. Total BS. Pots get super hot but you can put something an inch away and it won't heat up. Waste of time. Wanted to believe this would do something but all the naysayers are absolutely correct. If you want super hot clay pots, then this works great. Not really good for anything else.
 
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