DIY mini photon stove.

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Jun 14, 2005
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I have been reading other sites where people are making mini photon stoves out of pop cans and the like. Thought I would try one myself and after two failures, I think I have one right.

I didn't like the aluminum pop cans idea. I wanted one made out of tin so it will be a little more robust.

Found that the Carnation (5 OZ.) condensed milk can, and the La Victoria minced green peppers (4 OZ.)can fit together like a glove, and are the right size. The pepper can also has a ridge on the bottom much like the bottom of a pop can thats perfect for the holes which the flame escapes.

Remember this is a photon stove that works by building up presser. Be careful where you might light it, and tarmix101 takes no responsibility for loss of fingers, or any other body part that is attached to you...... ; )

What you need:
Can of Carnation milk (5 OZ),
Can of La Victoria green peppers (4 OZ)
JB weld
Sharp utility knife
1/16 " drill bit
1/8 " drill bit
1/4 " drill bit
1/4 " machine screw anchor
1'4 " machine screw
110 sandpaper
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Open both containers with a can opener (not the old school kind, and new fangled grip and twist kind) and empty.

Make sure you file any sharp burrs from the inside using a round file or sandpaper.

Peel off the labels, and clean the nuclear glue off using paint thinner or mineral spirits.
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Fit the La Victoria can over the milk can (open side of the milk can down) and mark it so you can cut it to length (the carnation milk can is too tall) using a utility knife. I went all the way around the can several times, and then cut it with tin shears. You don't have to do this however as a few more passes and you could finish it up with some strong scissors.
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Next it's time to put some holes in this baby. Mark the top/center of the pepper can and drill a pilot hole using a 1/8 " bit. Then use the 1/4 " bit to accommodate the machine screw anchor. Use sandpaper to de-burr.

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Use sandpaper to rough up all surfaces inside, especially the top of the La Victoria can. Also rough up the lead machine screw anchor and the outside bottom of the milk can. All this is where there will be JB weld. It will need a good key so everything stays together.

Next mix up some JB weld, and liberally juice up your anchor key and bolt making sure you don't get any on the inside threads. Then using a hammer and anvil beat the key into the lead anchor. Wipe the JB weld away that squirms out. I also spread some JB weld to the sides of the lead anchor where it meets the can to seal it up for sure.
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Next using a 1/16 " bit you can start drilling holes at about 45 degrees in the ridge of the pepper can. Now I have read where some say it needs 24 holes, 20 holes, or 16 holes. I'm starting off with 16 holes. I can always put more in if the flame is too aggressive. The more holes you have, the less presser built up in the can. Also, you don't want to make the holes to big. It will let too much gas out at one time and burn to fast. I just eyeballed the spacing going directly accost from each other. You can come up with a fancy diagram/template if you want using masking tape.
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Now using more JB weld, spread it over the bottom of both cans (inside/bottom of the pepper can, outside bottom of the milk can) about 1/2 of an inch up. Again, we need the stove to build up presser. The machine screw anchor, and bottom of cans need to be sealed so all the presser escapes out the small holes we drilled. Slide the milk can into the pepper can and wipe away the excess off the bottom. Make sure the two cans have enough JB weld to creat a good seal.

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And here we have it. The 1/4" machine screw screws into the 1/4" anchor (hole to poor the alcohol into) to create a air tight seal. Needs to cure for at least 24 hours before I light it so the rest will continue tomorrow night.........
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Tarmix,

Looks awesome! When it's done, would it be possible for me to put this on Klippe - The Wilderness Wiki? It's a community project to amass information useful to outdoors enthusiasts. More information can be found on the site's homepage and on the sticky thread. Anyway, the excellent photos, clear instructions, and great idea would be a superb addition.

You can see some other articles from BladeForums members here:
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Felling_a_Tree_with_a_Small_Knife
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Twist_Bread
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Flint_and_Steel_Firestarter
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Assembling_a_First_Aid_Kit
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Games_to_play_while_on_the_trail

Thank you,
CanDo
 
Tarmix,

Looks awesome! When it's done, would it be possible for me to put this on Klippe - The Wilderness Wiki? It's a community project to amass information useful to outdoors enthusiasts. More information can be found on the site's homepage and on the sticky thread. Anyway, the excellent photos, clear instructions, and great idea would be a superb addition.

You can see some other articles from BladeForums members here:
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Felling_a_Tree_with_a_Small_Knife
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Twist_Bread
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Flint_and_Steel_Firestarter
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Assembling_a_First_Aid_Kit
http://funditor.110mb.com/wiki/index.php/Games_to_play_while_on_the_trail

Thank you,
CanDo

You bet you can. I have looked over that Wiki, and it's very well done. I'd be happy to be part or it. I'll finish it up tomorrow night and post it here.

Thanks, :cool:
 
Well... not total failure, but close. To give you a little background, I made two others before this one.

One was out of pop cans. The top became very brittle and broke down in m pack.

The other I used JB weld to secure a nut underneath the pepper can (in line with the 1/4" hole) and the JB weld always gave way once it heated up.

I thought the machine screw anchor would help, and it did more the most part.

Two things went wrong.

1. The lead sleeve melted. Now the anchor still held hast, but I doubt it will last.

2. The holes are to big. The others I made more holes, but used a small finish nail instead of a 1/16" bit.

Time to make another. Changes will be:

1. A threaded rivet. This should take care of anything melting or coming loose.

2. I'm going back to using a small finish mail to make the gas holes. This time I'll stick with 16 instead of 20.

Pics below of the lighting and the one can of boiled water.

Say tuned for project # 4. ; )

I bought one of those Sterno stoves from Cabalas for about $8.00 for a wind shield.
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I used HEET for a fuel. Methanol alcohol is great for small stoves. One problem is it can hard to see the flame in sunlight.
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I filled the stove about 1/4 full here
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I put a few ounces in a primer pan, and light it to get the presser going here

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You can see the stove taking off here
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Here it is once settled down and the water tin on top of the Sterno stove
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Problems after the water boiled. JB weld came off the lead sleeve
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Lead sleeve melted
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Inside of can
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quess I'll try again. Post what I come up with later.
 
Very cool setup!, however if i may insert a safety warning....ditch the LEAD. Lead fumes are highly poisonous and i would'nt want to see a fellow Bladeforum member get the "lead crazies"

:thumbup::cool:
 
if you are using non magnatic metal try some of the LTR 720 rods. They would work great to weld. We used them at work a few times and they held great. Also used them to repair my old motorcycle lever that broke.

Sasha
 
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