DMT Aligner Kit

[nickE10mm]

This is exactly what I do on my Sebenza and SnG. I used my Edgepro to profile them down to 30 then go to work on the Sharpmaker at 40 to put a microbevel on there. This makes the Sebbie an incredible slicer with the advantage of a robust edge. Even the SnG, which gets used quite hard from time to time, will go for quite a while between touch ups.

Yep....

You know how everyone always talks about how they get a Sharpmaker then go around their house sharpening anything and everything in sight? Well my problem with that was that all the tools that HADNT been sharpened in a while needed a reprofile rather than a touch-up. I'm looking forward to actually having the MEANS to reprofile those tools.

Anxiously awaiting my diamonds...

 

[nickE10mm]

Does anyone know for sure if the DMT Aligner system's listed angles are INCLUSIVE or "per-side"? I can assume but I can't tell from the pictures.

Thanks in advance....

 

[gajinoz]

The angles you set are per side. Therefore, when you sharpen both sides of the knife at the 17 setting, it will have a total edge angle of 34. (As an example).

 

[nickE10mm]

The angles you set are per side. Therefore, when you sharpen both sides of the knife at the 17 setting, it will have a total edge angle of 34. (As an example).

Okay... well thats a bummer, since that would mean that I can't get anything more acute than 16 degress. I thought there was a 7 adjustment range that went lower AND higher than the sharpmaker. Bummer.

 

[gajinoz]

The aligner has the same problem as pretty much any clamp system, especially on small knives, the lower the angle the more the clamp gets in the way of the stone as you move it back and forth.

 

[nickE10mm]

The aligner has the same problem as pretty much any clamp system, especially on small knives, the lower the angle the more the clamp gets in the way of the stone as you move it back and forth.

DMT should consider selling an "alternate" clamp that covers a much thinner angle "range" for people who desire it. It would simply have to be longer and not as thick,

 

[gajinoz]

DMT should consider selling an "alternate" clamp that covers a much thinner angle "range" for people who desire it. It would simply have to be longer and not as thick,

What I think might be better is a system that held the handle of the knife so that the area around the blade was completely clear.

 

[Esav Benyamin]

What I think might be better is a system that held the handle of the knife so that the area around the blade was completely clear.

There is. It's called free-handing.

 

[gajinoz]

There is. It's called free-handing.

Silly bugger.

True enough but, if you're a bit anal about exact and consistent edge angles and you have little or no freehand experience, the kits are it I'm afraid.

Actually the aligner clamp is probably a great way into the world of freehand for the novice, it can be used in a semi freehand way on any bench stone and it will help you recognise a particular angle so you can progress to real freehand.

 

[THG]

Actually the aligner clamp is probably a great way into the world of freehand for the novice, it can be used in a semi freehand way on any bench stone and it will help you recognise a particular angle so you can progress to real freehand.

I agree. I learned a lot from my using my Aligner on desktop benchstones. Now I freehand everything. Except when I rebevel; then I use either the Aligner or an angle block (I guess the latter is still freehanding.)

And just btw, sharpening is more about "feeling" an angle rather than "holding" a certain angle and just passing the knife. At least that's been my experience. When I discovered the "feel" is when I had a major breakthrough in my sharpening abilities.

 

[nickE10mm]

Okay.... got my Aligner today and just now was able to open it up and mess around with it. Brought some cheap knives with me here to work (graveyard shift).... Gerber LST (was actually already AT work cause its my "apple knife"), Kabar Dozier folding hunter (AUS8) and of course my EDC (BM Griptilian sheepsfoot 154CM). I followed this process almost exactly with each knife.

Aligner for the primary bevel 17/34 deg:

1) blue stone about 30-50 light strokes per side (to rebevel the primary) at the lowest settings (16" or so, per SIDE I'm told ...). Some strokes were circular to remove metal quickly but finishing strokes were whole blade strokes.

2) red stone about 15-20 light full blade strokes per side at lowest angle.

3) green stone about 15-20 light full blade strokes per side at lowest angle.

on to Sharpmaker for my secondary bevel at 20/40 deg:

4) brown corners about 20 light strokes

5) brown flats about 20 light strokes

6) white corners about 20 light strokes

7) white flats about 20 VERY light strokes ending in BARELY ANY pressure

to the strop (belt loaded with Cr2O3)

8) about 20 light strops per side followed by *ONE* VERY LIGHT HIGHER-ANGLE PASS per side.


RESULTS:

The Gerber, which wouldn't cut butter before, now slices newsprint quite nicely... the serrations are also nice and polished looking as I got out the Aligner's serration file).

The Kabar Dozier has been restored to its prior state... it will push cut newsprint and it seems that its primary bevels are noticeably cleaner and more well defined now. Nice!

My new BM Griptilian HG (plain blade) already shaved and, despite my rigorous use all day today in the yard, was STILL poppin' hairs.... but IT NOW WHITTLES HAIR. SUPER sharp.

I'll have to say that, despite the fact that the Aligner's angle "choices" are less than ideal, they at least equal the Sharpmaker, however, the two systems make a nice combination for those who need a nice, guided reprofile to set the stage for an amazing secondary bevel. The diamonds simply CHEW through metal which is quite nice.

If I were rich I'd go out and buy a DMT benchstones (XXC through XXF) and practice my freehanding but I can't afford anything of the sort right now.

GOOD STUFF!

 

[THG]

If I were rich I'd go out and buy a DMT benchstones (XXC through XXF) and practice my freehanding but I can't afford anything of the sort right now.

Save the money, and get the 11.5" x 2" stones. Don't settle for less because it's cheaper and then regret it later.

 

[nickE10mm]

Update:

I spent about 20 mins (total) getting a Schrade Old Timer folder (that I've NEVER BEEN ABLE TO GET SHARP) to an amazingLy keen edge. It will now shave and pushcut newsprint. This knife was a gift and I never wanted to use it due to edge suckiness so this is a nice relief. The steel in the old Schrade may not be so terrible after all LOL.

Another bonus is that I really got the hang of the Aligner on this particular sharpening session. It's truly a great way to learn the motions of freehand for later.

 

[Gadgetaholic]

Another bonus is that I really got the hang of the Aligner on this particular sharpening session. It's truly a great way to learn the motions of freehand for later.

Since using the Aligner I have decided that at some point I'd like to get a couple of larger stones for freehand sharpening. Before I got the Aligner I doubted my ability to hold an angle and do a good job freehand, now I think I could do OK freehand. I couldn't match the consistent angle of the Aligner though.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

So this thread has me almost convinced to get a DMT aligner kit, but the thing I have always struggled with on every sharpening solution I have used so far is getting the tip of the blade sharp (user error, I'm sure). I've tried the Lansky and several types of blocks, etc and usually I can get the belly of the blade sharp but not the tip, which is very frustrating! Any tips for a novice, guys?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

So this thread has me almost convinced to get a DMT aligner kit, but the thing I have always struggled with on every sharpening solution I have used so far is getting the tip of the blade sharp (user error, I'm sure). I've tried the Lansky and several types of blocks, etc and usually I can get the belly of the blade sharp but not the tip, which is very frustrating! Any tips for a novice, guys?

With regard to using the Lansky, the main things to focus on when doing the tip:

1.) Near the tip, try to keep the stone's motion directly perpendicular to the blade edge. In my experience, I've noticed that if I tried to 'sweep' the hone along the length of the edge, either moving from belly to tip or in the opposite direction, there's more of a tendency to rock or tip the hone to one side or the other, or running the stone all the way off the tip, which usually results in either 'rounding off' the tip, or in bumping or catching the hone on the tip. If you move the hone directly into the edge, it's easier (for me, at least) to focus on keeping the hone level & flush to the edge.

2.) At or near the tip, use VERY LIGHT pressure. Leaning into the hone with too much pressure will likely result in much the same problems as mentioned above (rounding off, flat-spotting or otherwise damaging the tip). With this in mind, use the coarsest hone necessary to do the work. In most cases, depending upon the clamp's position on the blade, the honing angle at the tip will almost always be more acute (shallower), and this necessitates removing more metal, producing a wider bevel near the tip. With light pressure, this'll obviously take more time.

3.) Use shorter, more controlled strokes near the tip. Again, this'll allow you to focus on keeping things steady & smooth.

4.) Slow down. Again, for the same reasons as above.

5.) If you don't do this already, get yourself a black marker (like a Sharpie) and a decent magnifier (at least 5x -10x). And make sure you have good light (use a flashlight if necessary). Use the marker to blacken the area near to, and including, the edge before you start sharpening. Once you've started, frequently inspect the edge with the magnifier to see where the metal's coming off. This is especially important at the tip, because you'll find that it'll take more time to make the 2 sides of the edge come together there. And it'll be immediately obvious if you have any issues with 'rounding off' or otherwise bending or nicking the tip.

One thing that's made a huge difference for me is to use a vise or some other means to mount the Lansky clamp to the table or bench. Some folks have used the Lansky with the clamp held in one hand, while honing with the other. For me, that gets very tiring on the hands, and it'll distract you from the important aspects of the process. If the clamp is mounted on something steady, you'll be more able to focus on the sharpening.

Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[Gadgetaholic]

So this thread has me almost convinced to get a DMT aligner kit, but the thing I have always struggled with on every sharpening solution I have used so far is getting the tip of the blade sharp (user error, I'm sure).

Must be user error. I can get the tip 'shaving sharp' without problem on my Aligner. If I am raising a burr I do it along the entire cutting edge of the blade - I am not too sure why anyone wouldn't be able to do the same. When I test a knife I lose a lot of hair off my arm or leg because I test several parts of the blade including the tip, I also repeat the test on the other side. When I strop I also do some 'tip to handle' strokes (and some tip to mid blade strokes) and make sure I get the tip sharp.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

Oh, I forgot to mention, I sold the Lansky to fund another purchase because I was so frustrated with it. I'm guessing the suggestions still apply to the DMT system? Also, how long of a blade can be sharpened with this system without moving the clamp?

With regard to using the Lansky, the main things to focus on when doing the tip:

1.) Near the tip, try to keep the stone's motion directly perpendicular to the blade edge. In my experience, I've noticed that if I tried to 'sweep' the hone along the length of the edge, either moving from belly to tip or in the opposite direction, there's more of a tendency to rock or tip the hone to one side or the other, or running the stone all the way off the tip, which usually results in either 'rounding off' the tip, or in bumping or catching the hone on the tip. If you move the hone directly into the edge, it's easier (for me, at least) to focus on keeping the hone level & flush to the edge.

2.) At or near the tip, use VERY LIGHT pressure. Leaning into the hone with too much pressure will likely result in much the same problems as mentioned above (rounding off, flat-spotting or otherwise damaging the tip). With this in mind, use the coarsest hone necessary to do the work. In most cases, depending upon the clamp's position on the blade, the honing angle at the tip will almost always be more acute (shallower), and this necessitates removing more metal, producing a wider bevel near the tip. With light pressure, this'll obviously take more time.

3.) Use shorter, more controlled strokes near the tip. Again, this'll allow you to focus on keeping things steady & smooth.

4.) Slow down. Again, for the same reasons as above.

5.) If you don't do this already, get yourself a black marker (like a Sharpie) and a decent magnifier (at least 5x -10x). And make sure you have good light (use a flashlight if necessary). Use the marker to blacken the area near to, and including, the edge before you start sharpening. Once you've started, frequently inspect the edge with the magnifier to see where the metal's coming off. This is especially important at the tip, because you'll find that it'll take more time to make the 2 sides of the edge come together there. And it'll be immediately obvious if you have any issues with 'rounding off' or otherwise bending or nicking the tip.

One thing that's made a huge difference for me is to use a vise or some other means to mount the Lansky clamp to the table or bench. Some folks have used the Lansky with the clamp held in one hand, while honing with the other. For me, that gets very tiring on the hands, and it'll distract you from the important aspects of the process. If the clamp is mounted on something steady, you'll be more able to focus on the sharpening.

Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[neeman]

...
Also, how long of a blade can be sharpened with this system without moving the clamp?

I have sharpened big 7" blades with the DMT Aligner

You divide the blade length in quarters.
Place the Aligner on the 1/4 mark and the 3/4 mark and sharpen half the blade at a time.

Important: make sure the Aligner is the same distance from the spine to maintain the same angle