DMT aligner vs high end systems

L

Lennyo3034

Joined
Nov 27, 2012
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I'm looking to get a DMT aligner sharpening system, and I'm wondering what I will be missing by not going with an edge pro or wicked edge? I've seen videos of people sharpening on the wicked edge and getting extremely sharp hair whittling edges, and I'm wondering if that can be done with the DMT? I plan to upgrade it as I go (new finer stones, something I can put paste on, etc.) and I'm wondering what I will be missing once upgraded?

Is there another sharpening system I should be looking in to? I'd like to get a nice polished edge as sharp as possible. A flat grind is sufficient and I don't think I have the skill or experience to try to do a convex grind. I'm hoping to keep everything under $100, although I don't mind buying worthwhile upgrades to the DMT down the line.
 
I like my dmt aligner,gets good results.I sold my edge pro apex found it a bit messy and scratched the blade even when taped up.Might just be me being clumsy tho
 
I stayed on the fence for a very long time, as to whether I wanted to spend the $$$ on the EP (or even if I really needed one). I was on the fence long enough to spend more time using other systems (Lansky, Gatco, DMT Aligner/Magna-Guide), and learned an awful lot. Finally felt like I'd learned enough that I no longer felt the need for getting into a whole new system, especially considering the cost. I'm sure the EP and WickedEdge are good, but it's quite possible to produce great edges by other means, if you're patient and willing to pay attention to the fundamentals of the sharpening process. The more you learn about the basics (maintaining angle, using light pressure, selecting appropriate abrasives for the steel, etc.), the more you'll notice how little you need, in terms of expensive tools, to make some really sharp edges. It always, always, always comes down to good technique in the end, no matter how much money, or how little, you spend in getting there.


David
 
I've never used any of the high end systems, but I really like my DMT aligner. I can sharpen any knife with it, even machetes and such, it just requires moving the clamp on the blade once or twice depending on the length of the blade. The stones for the aligner are relatively cheap and they last a very long time if you are not abusing them (using too much pressure). You can get very creative and squeeze a ton of functionality out of it, for example: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/993761-DMT-Aligner-Strop-Insert (I just made another insert with horse hide last night, going to update that thread once I get a chance to try it out).

I also have the Lansky clamp and use the DMT aligner stones with the Lansky clamp for some blades. I find that the Lansky clamp works better with very small blades, but the DMT clamp works better with medium-large sized blades, but if you only want to have one clamp you can use the zip-tie spacer trick: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...paper-is-there-a-burr?p=10704738#post10704738

I also like that the aligner stones are small enough that I can take them with me as a field sharpening tool either freehand or I can bring the clamp along since it weighs almost nothing.
 
I use the DMT Aligner stones in the Edge Pro Apex. It works great, and is a major step up from the little hand-held thingee that comes with the Aligner. I find it's really valuable to have both systems:

Edge Pro Apex with synthetic stones for softer steels and any knife over 3.5 inches (like my 9.5 inch carbon steel chefs' knife). The diamond stones are used on really hard steels or ceramic blades. I can't see myself going back to the little plastic jig for the Aligner. If I am out and about and expect to have to touch-up a blade, I will carry a small diamond stone loose in my pocket and free-hand it.

Cheers!
 
I use my DMT Aligner far more often than my EdgePro. I can use the DMT Aligner with its own stones, with bench stones or with sandpaper, and carrying it with a couple of squares of sandpaper is ALL I ever need when camping or traveling. The EdgePro is great when I have larger blades to work on, or need to sharpen a lot of knives at once, but the DMT Aligner is the go-to for simple sharpening when I want a perfect edge.


Stitchawl
 
So, what is the real advantage of the Edge-Pro? Is it more precise, versatile, or reliable in its results?
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I stayed on the fence for a very long time, as to whether I wanted to spend the $$$ on the EP (or even if I really needed one). I was on the fence long enough to spend more time using other systems (Lansky, Gatco, DMT Aligner/Magna-Guide), and learned an awful lot. Finally felt like I'd learned enough that I no longer felt the need for getting into a whole new system, especially considering the cost. I'm sure the EP and WickedEdge are good, but it's quite possible to produce great edges by other means, if you're patient and willing to pay attention to the fundamentals of the sharpening process. The more you learn about the basics (maintaining angle, using light pressure, selecting appropriate abrasives for the steel, etc.), the more you'll notice how little you need, in terms of expensive tools, to make some really sharp edges. It always, always, always comes down to good technique in the end, no matter how much money, or how little, you spend in getting there.


David
Click to expand...

That is my experience too. If you don't know how to sharpen, no system will help and alternatively, if you know how to sharpen, you can use almost anything.

The only advantage of the systems is absolutely perfect bevel angles. If that matters to you and you don't want to learn freehanding, go for a system. I own a Lansky and occasionally use it for a 2000 grit vanity edge, but my EDC gets a 325 grit freehand edge.

The Edge Pro can get the lowest angles and I believe it is the most versatile system. Clamps are finicky when the blade has no flat spot to clamp.
 
Another vote for the DMT aligner sys. It simply works extremely well for the cost at approx. $45/50...I've re-profiled bevels in a variety of super steels very quickly with the coarse stone progressing to the extra-fine and use a strop w/white & green compound sometimes for a more polished edge, but generally stop with the fine stone for good general toothy working edge result. The nice thing is that the bevels are the exact same EVERY time as opposed to freehand sharpening. The tapered diamond rod works well for serrations and recurved blades too.

I've never used the high end EP and WE systems but its hard to imagine better results than the DMT aligner kit...and the trick to longevity is using a light touch/pressure, trusting the stones to do the cutting.
 
cm_bushman said:
So, what is the real advantage of the Edge-Pro? Is it more precise, versatile, or reliable in its results?
Click to expand...

Easier to use when sharpening longer or larger blades. The DMT is perfect for a folder. Every bit as good as an EdgePro, although more dificult to get angles other than its own setting. But for $12 (the cost of the clamp alone) it's hard to beat it if you have to spend $250 for a clamp and three stones.


Stitchawl
 
I see. When I seen that the Shapton and Atoma Stones were available for the EP, I began looking at it more closely. After trying out the Aligner though, I doubt I would ever need better edges, and doubt I would get much better results anyways (all of my knives are sub-5" blades). I couldn't be happier with the Aligner, and I recommend it to anyone who wants to maintain hair popping edges but can't get the hang of freehand stones. I'm sure a Lansky or GATCO system would do just as well, though the DMT stones are hard to beat.

I do hope to freehand in the future, and what they say about the guided systems is true: they really do give you a better understanding of the sharpening process.
 
I use my DMT Aligner with great success
It is easy to use and comes up with excellent results

I have used a great deal on Queen D2, which is a very hard steel, and the Queen angles are quite obtuse...

The systen is slower as the stones are only 4" long and you do not use the whole 4"
So swop round the stone to get them to wear more evenly

I puchased all the stones from Extra Course to Extra Extra Fine
I found the Extra Fine (green) is as far as I need to go, and do not need the EEF
I purchased a new Extra Course as this stone takes the brunt of the work in reprofiling

I then strop on white compound

Of course I do not use the Jig for my scandi grinds, I have waterstones for that

Bottom line
I highly recommend the DMT Aligner
 
neeman said:
I use my DMT Aligner with great success
It is easy to use and comes up with excellent results

I have used a great deal on Queen D2, which is a very hard steel, and the Queen angles are quite obtuse...

The systen is slower as the stones are only 4" long and you do not use the whole 4"
So swop round the stone to get them to wear more evenly

I puchased all the stones from Extra Course to Extra Extra Fine
I found the Extra Fine (green) is as far as I need to go, and do not need the EEF
I purchased a new Extra Course as this stone takes the brunt of the work in reprofiling

I then strop on white compound

Of course I do not use the Jig for my scandi grinds, I have waterstones for that

Bottom line
I highly recommend the DMT Aligner
Click to expand...

I'm still on the fence about DMT aligner or edge pro apex
I have small pocket knifes nothing fancy that I use for whatever life throws at me. My main concern are my kitchen knives that have never been sharpened since the day I bought them.
I use a steel and keep them useable but they need a good sharpening. I tried a carbide pull through on them until I found out how bad that is.
My chefs and carver knives are 8" and most of the others are 4 and 6".
I do not have the talent for freehand and would like a system to get them sharp , not hair splitting sharp so to say but nice and sharp.
I realize it's a long learning curve but would like to start in the right direction with the right tools.
Would the dmt work well on those longer knives?

Thanks
Joe
 
wilejoe said:
.............................Would the dmt work well on those longer knives?
Thanks
Joe
Click to expand...

Yes... but not well nor easily. You would have to continually move the clamp along the blade as you sharpened. If you are looking for something that will work easily and well for longer knives, yet not break the bank, consider a Sharpmaker with diamond rods added. Almost no learning curve. Extremely easy to use. And perfect for weekly or monthly touch-ups. The Sharpmaker WILL require that you spend a little longer on the very first sharpening, to set the bevels to match the angles of the rods, but after that, it's a 5 minute job to re-sharpen the knife. If you are not looking for that hair-splitting edge, then no need to purchase the extra-fine rods, but the diamond rods should be considered as imperative. Otherwise, that initial matching of angles will take much longer.

Stitchawl
 
Another alternative is to use the DMT Aligner clamp on the kitchen knives, but with a larger bench stone. I think the DMT clamp is actually at it's best in that setting. Could also substitute wet/dry sandpaper on an elevated block of wood or other hard surface (glass), in place of the bench stone. For typical kitchen knives in simple stainless or carbon steel, a basic aluminum oxide or silicon carbide bench stone would handle those easily. Wouldn't have to invest in a diamond bench hone for those. DMT has a video demonstrating how the clamp can be used this way:

[video=youtube;iZOM_3Xi8O0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=iZOM_3Xi8O0[/video]


David
 
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I have a DMT aligner that I bought for reprofiling blades as much as anything. It works well for knives with 1" or taller blades. I think it would be hard to get low angles with a 1/2" tall blade on a traditional, just because of the thickness of the DMT clamp. Also the DMT doesn't offer a lot of angle choices but I think a person could make their own part for that.

I worried about how the clamp would work on a blade that didn't have parallel faces at the top such as a FFG spyderco or a Becker BK14, but it seems to work fine as long as you eyeball the centering of the blade when you put the clamp on.

The DMT stones work well for reprofiling. I made a strop attachment for mine by cutting a piece of balsa wood the same size as a DMT stone, gluing on a piece of leather, and putting some compound on it.

I know how to sharpen, or at least I think I know how to sharpen, but when I actually try doing it it just doesn't work out as well in reality as it does in theory. And I am too impatient to buy some stones and spend a lot of time actually learning, so I bought the DMT. I put some sharpie on the edge, work on it with the coarse stones until I've hit the apex, work a little with the finer stones, then the leather, and it is very sharp and nearly polished.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Another alternative is to use the DMT Aligner clamp on the kitchen knives, but with a larger bench stone. I think the DMT clamp is actually at it's best in that setting. Could also substitute wet/dry sandpaper on an elevated block of wood or other hard surface (glass), in place of the bench stone. For typical kitchen knives in simple stainless or carbon steel, a basic aluminum oxide or silicon carbide bench stone would handle those easily. Wouldn't have to invest in a diamond bench hone for those. DMT has a video demonstrating how the clamp can be used this way:

[video=youtube;iZOM_3Xi8O0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=iZOM_3Xi8O0[/video]


David
Click to expand...


I watched that video myself and was wondering if it's as easy as it looks.
The aligner and the 3 pack of 6" dmt diamond stones was one of my considerations.
 
wilejoe said:
I watched that video myself and was wondering if it's as easy as it looks.
The aligner and the 3 pack of 6" dmt diamond stones was one of my considerations.
Click to expand...

With a typical kitchen knife in carbon or basic stainless, the 'upkeep' of such a blade could be that easy, as shown on the diamond bench hone. They demonstrate what is basically 'maintenance sharpening' (6 passes per side, or so), without fully re-bevelling. BUT, the valuable takeaway from that vid is, the very light pressure demo'd is exactly how a diamond hone works best, especially on softer steels. A coarse or fine diamond used as such on a kitchen knife, could leave a very nice & toothy utility edge that'd work well in the kitchen.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
With a typical kitchen knife in carbon or basic stainless, the 'upkeep' of such a blade could be that easy, as shown on the diamond bench hone. They demonstrate what is basically 'maintenance sharpening' (6 passes per side, or so), without fully re-bevelling. BUT, the valuable takeaway from that vid is, the very light pressure demo'd is exactly how a diamond hone works best, especially on softer steels. A coarse or fine diamond used as such on a kitchen knife, could leave a very nice & toothy utility edge that'd work well in the kitchen.


David
Click to expand...

Thanks David.
And if needed re-beveling sounds like it would just take more passes.

Joe
 
wilejoe said:
Thanks David.
And if needed re-beveling sounds like it would just take more passes.

Joe
Click to expand...

Yes, and on most kitchen knives, even that would go pretty quickly on a coarse or fine diamond hone. Those steels don't put up much of a fight, on those hones. That's partly why feather-light pressure is so important on diamond, as too-heavy on soft steels is counter-productive (other reason being, with high-wear steels, it saves wear & tear on the hone).


David
 
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