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DMT aligner vs high end systems
- Thread starter Lennyo3034
- Start date
No I do not think they will work for longer knives
Sorry for the delay
Becuase the clamp is placed in the cneter of the blade, the angle of the stone changes the further it is from the center
This means the grind angle at the tip and front of the blade are significantly more acute
I really like having the front and tip of the blade more acute as this suits my cutting style
But for I would not want this for a long kitchen knife where the push cut will be equal through out the cut
And even moving the clamp to sharpen 'twice' will not produce an even grind
So the longest I have done is on a 3 1/2" D2 Queen Hunter
But If you are okay with the changing grind angle , then a 4 1/2" knife would work fine
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2008
- Messages
- 1,647
Freehand all along! I know, there is a learning curve (that never ends ...) but you will not only be able to sharpen your knife to satisfying degrees of sharpness (and polish it), you will also be able to reprofile your knives to your likings eventually which no other system can offer you!! What good is a sharp and polished edge if the stock is too thick, uneven etc. and you can't actually cut anything with it? I would however recommend a Spyderco Sharpmaker since this device can actually teach you quite a bit about how to move the knife on the stone, how to get to the tip, how to remove a burr etc.
Again, you have to aquire those skills first but isn't that also the fun of it?
Again, you have to aquire those skills first but isn't that also the fun of it?
Sorry I completely overlooked this part.
I was thinking of diamond stones because they would be quicker and have little maintenance.
I'm welcome to thoughts and suggestions
Thanks
Joe
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
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- 13,574
If most or all of your knives aren't high-wear 'super steels' like S30V, ZDP-189, etc., you could likely manage very well with something like a Norton Crystolon (silicon carbide) or Norton India (aluminum oxide). That's what I had in mind, in that earlier comment. Even if you do get a diamond hone, I'm inclined to think the Norton stones would add some versatility to your sharpening kit.
David
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
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- 13,574
The safest way to keep the oil stones from glazing over, is to make sure you use them with oil or other lubricating fluid (some like to use water + dish detergent for this). Also be sure to avoid letting them get too dirty; too much grime can start to clog the stone if neglected too long. Using oil stones dry seems to glaze and/or clog them very quickly, so I'd keep them lubricated, one way or another. OR, at the very least, make sure to clean them thoroughly after each and every sharpening session. Cheap oilstones seem to glaze very easily (I have a couple myself).
Depending what type of combo stone you have, it may be much more prone to glazing anyway. Quality of the abrasive makes a big difference, and Norton has a good rep for quality, especially in the Crystolon and India stones. Don't know if I've ever heard of anybody not liking these stones, and that's saying something.
David
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,574
From what I've heard about the India stone, many seem to be pretty happy finishing with that stone alone (allowing for stropping afterwards). Might have a look at this linked thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/881201-Norton-India-stone-review-w-pics
In particular, the thread's input from members 'HeavyHanded' and 'David Martin' should be helpful. These guys have a lot of experience with these stones, and have contributed frequently in many threads, on their use. With some luck, they may chime in here as well.
David