DMT aligner vs high end systems

wilejoe said:
Would the dmt work well on those longer knives?

Thanks
Joe
Click to expand...

No I do not think they will work for longer knives

Sorry for the delay

Becuase the clamp is placed in the cneter of the blade, the angle of the stone changes the further it is from the center
This means the grind angle at the tip and front of the blade are significantly more acute
I really like having the front and tip of the blade more acute as this suits my cutting style

But for I would not want this for a long kitchen knife where the push cut will be equal through out the cut
And even moving the clamp to sharpen 'twice' will not produce an even grind

So the longest I have done is on a 3 1/2" D2 Queen Hunter
But If you are okay with the changing grind angle , then a 4 1/2" knife would work fine
 
Thanks
I think Im going to go with what obsessed with edges recommended
The dmt aligner clamp.with benchstones
Ill probably get the dmt 3 stone box of 6" stones
This hopefully will be a good starting point
 
Freehand all along! I know, there is a learning curve (that never ends ...) but you will not only be able to sharpen your knife to satisfying degrees of sharpness (and polish it), you will also be able to reprofile your knives to your likings eventually which no other system can offer you!! What good is a sharp and polished edge if the stock is too thick, uneven etc. and you can't actually cut anything with it? I would however recommend a Spyderco Sharpmaker since this device can actually teach you quite a bit about how to move the knife on the stone, how to get to the tip, how to remove a burr etc.

Again, you have to aquire those skills first but isn't that also the fun of it?
 
I would love to be able to freehand that's one of the reasons I'm going with the benchstones
I'll practice on the cheepo knifes once I get a good edge on them
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
. For typical kitchen knives in simple stainless or carbon steel, a basic aluminum oxide or silicon carbide bench stone would handle those easily. Wouldn't have to invest in a diamond bench hone for those.



David
Click to expand...



Sorry I completely overlooked this part.
I was thinking of diamond stones because they would be quicker and have little maintenance.
I'm welcome to thoughts and suggestions


Thanks
Joe
 
wilejoe said:
Sorry I completely overlooked this part.
I was thinking of diamond stones because they would be quicker and have little maintenance.
I'm welcome to thoughts and suggestions


Thanks
Joe
Click to expand...

If most or all of your knives aren't high-wear 'super steels' like S30V, ZDP-189, etc., you could likely manage very well with something like a Norton Crystolon (silicon carbide) or Norton India (aluminum oxide). That's what I had in mind, in that earlier comment. Even if you do get a diamond hone, I'm inclined to think the Norton stones would add some versatility to your sharpening kit.


David
 
If I go with the Norton what grit should I get ?
I have a really cheap combo stone that glazes over quite easily
Will these Norton stones glaze over and how do I fix them
Alot of questions but thanks for the help
 
wilejoe said:
If I go with the Norton what grit should I get ?
I have a really cheap combo stone that glazes over quite easily
Will these Norton stones glaze over and how do I fix them
Alot of questions but thanks for the help
Click to expand...

The safest way to keep the oil stones from glazing over, is to make sure you use them with oil or other lubricating fluid (some like to use water + dish detergent for this). Also be sure to avoid letting them get too dirty; too much grime can start to clog the stone if neglected too long. Using oil stones dry seems to glaze and/or clog them very quickly, so I'd keep them lubricated, one way or another. OR, at the very least, make sure to clean them thoroughly after each and every sharpening session. Cheap oilstones seem to glaze very easily (I have a couple myself).

Depending what type of combo stone you have, it may be much more prone to glazing anyway. Quality of the abrasive makes a big difference, and Norton has a good rep for quality, especially in the Crystolon and India stones. Don't know if I've ever heard of anybody not liking these stones, and that's saying something.


David
 
wilejoe said:
So if one of my combo india stones is 100/320 what should my next stone be
Thanks
Click to expand...

From what I've heard about the India stone, many seem to be pretty happy finishing with that stone alone (allowing for stropping afterwards). Might have a look at this linked thread:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/881201-Norton-India-stone-review-w-pics

In particular, the thread's input from members 'HeavyHanded' and 'David Martin' should be helpful. These guys have a lot of experience with these stones, and have contributed frequently in many threads, on their use. With some luck, they may chime in here as well.


David
 
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