DMT Double Sided Diafolds

[Hengelo_77]

Don't count your strokes.
You sharpen one side untill you get a burr on the other side.
Then move to the other side.
Do that side untill you have a burr and move up to a finer gritt.

No magic, voodoo or secret recepies, just patience

 

[Jason B.]

You know, I forgot all about it. I have 3 of them, the two others, a new Izula hasn't been touched but the one I carry all the time, I've resharpened. It'll shave and definitely slice through copy paper in wavy motions - sharp.

With this one - the edge doesn't feel anything like the other and it already has a huge scratch line on it. I assumed that everything would be the same. The more I think about it, you're probably right. I'm probably still shaving off the shoulders and should have stayed on the diamond rods until it was very sharp.

knifenut1013 said this 1095 was "something else" (about being hard steel) that is.

Though you followed the directions you did about 1/10 the amount of strokes truly needed.


Yes, rowen 1095 has the best HT I've seen of any 1095 and also takes noticeably longer to grind and sharpen.

 

[cziv]

Though you followed the directions you did about 1/10 the amount of strokes truly needed.

I'm waiting until my coarse DMT Diafold gets here then, it already shipped yesterday, should be here Saturday. The Izula can wait until then, it should be a good break-in for the stone right?

 

[Jason B.]

I'm waiting until my coarse DMT Diafold gets here then, it already shipped yesterday, should be here Saturday. The Izula can wait until then, it should be a good break-in for the stone right?

Yep, that and about 20 other knives

 

[cziv]

Yep, that and about 20 other knives

I don't really get you knifenut1013. Won't they work well for awhile? I don't know what to expect from your posts about the "break in" of these sharpeners. Will they not work right? Will they take off a lot or not very much metal off when they're new? Thanks

 

[Jason B.]

I don't really get you knifenut1013. Won't they work well for awhile? I don't know what to expect from your posts about the "break in" of these sharpeners. Will they not work right? Will they take off a lot or not very much metal off when they're new? Thanks

When the stones are fresh its like they have too much diamond on them and they will feel very gritty. The finish will be dull and hazed and though the edge will be sharp you will see vast improvements when the stones break-in. Its all stated in the directions best so make sure you read and follow them.

Compared to a broke-in DMT stone new ones feel awful.


P.S. Break-in CAN take some time, one knife is not going to do it.

 

[cziv]

Thanks knifenut1013,

The pics looked so small that I couldn't tell if they had instructions or not. I guess the hard answer I was looking for can't be explained any better than you did. It must be experienced!

BTW, if you're by this thread again. I bought two new strops:

I went with 1 and 0.5 micron diamond spray for each of my Mr2Blue stops

I bought these would you concur with FlaMtnBkr on this or leave one bare? Do you just do a Google search for the spray/s?

I want to use them on other knives as well if that matters.

 

[Jason B.]

Not unless you plan on shaving, bare leather is not really a practical step for knives.

 

[cziv]

Not unless you plan on shaving, bare leather is not really a practical step for knives.

What do you strop with? Anyone? I've been using the green compound only.

 

[Jason B.]

I have 6,3,1,0.5,0.25, and chromium oxide on many strops. It all depends on what you finish the blade too before stropping, you must always follow the grit progression for the next grit to be effective.


If you stop sharpening with a fine DMT then use a chromium oxide strop your wasting you time because the 0.5 micron cr is not capable of properly removing the existing scratch marks. All your doing is surface polishing and not actual sharpening.

 

[cziv]

If you stop sharpening with a fine DMT then use a chromium oxide strop your wasting you time because the 0.5 micron cr is not capable of properly removing the existing scratch marks. All your doing is surface polishing and not actual sharpening.

Since all of my folders are new edges except my EDC, I plan on using the fine, x-fine, then xx-fine before stropping.

That would be if stropping after the xx-fine is of any further help?

I don't plan on any re-profiling at this point. I have very wide bevels on some of my new Benchmades but they're still crazy sharp.

 

[Jason B.]

most factory edges are set with a 320 belt so I would start with the coarse.

 

[THG]

I don't really get you knifenut1013. Won't they work well for awhile? I don't know what to expect from your posts about the "break in" of these sharpeners. Will they not work right? Will they take off a lot or not very much metal off when they're new? Thanks

When the stones are fresh its like they have too much diamond on them and they will feel very gritty. The finish will be dull and hazed and though the edge will be sharp you will see vast improvements when the stones break-in. Its all stated in the directions best so make sure you read and follow them.

Compared to a broke-in DMT stone new ones feel awful.


P.S. Break-in CAN take some time, one knife is not going to do it.

Listen to him. Once when I first got my DMT EF, I posted how disappointed I was in it compared to my DMT F. I said that there was no noticeable difference in sharpness.

A year later, this EF stone gets my knives WICKED sharp. I can split coarse hairs using just this stone.

Now I just got a DMT F 11.5" x 2.5" stone. It was VERY gritty when I got it. I was actually thinking it was a coarse stone and they accidentally mislabeled it. A few weeks later, it feels much smoother, but I can't really get a sharp edge with it yet.

So yeah, they do take a while to break in. Also, for some reason, I have a feeling that the perforated stones either get knives sharper, or they break in faster (maybe, because there are fewer diamonds.)

 

[Jason B.]

They break-in faster, my ef diafold feels as smooth if not smoother than my well broke-in eef plate.

 

[cziv]

DMT Diafolds Arrived this afternoon. They are less than 1/2 what I paid for my SharpMaker and all of it's accessory rods. (what was I thinking?)

These things are the bomb! :thumbup:

I spent about 1/2 hour feeling them out and wetting them and going through all 4 grits (that I bought) twice. Freehanded and now the dull Izula is sharp as a tack. It probably took me about 1/4 the time as a single session with the Sharpie which would not get them Sharp.

They're the greatest thing in sharpening I've ever owned. Love 'em

I'm going to get my strops loaded with diamond spray or paste - haven't decided yet. That will give me a 3 strops one with chromium oxide, one with 1 micron diamond and one with 0.5 micron diamond.

Time to get out my wifes knives and play around with them - mine are all as sharp as I need them now.

 

[hoopster]

I love the Diafolds also, they work greath and their portability is a big plus. I carry a coarse/fine in my backpack and do a lot of sharpening with it. I need to order the fine/extra fine now.

 

[sodak]

The coarse/fine (blue/red) are almost all I use anymore. I don't like the fine (green), and really don't like the ceramic - the dots stick up and catch my edge. It's probably my technique, but the blue/red work fantastic, and if I'm needing a finer finish, I use a Spyderco ceramic, usually in fine.

If I strop, my favorite paste is the Thiers Issard on a canvas strop. It's my last sharpening for my straight razors before they go to bare leather.

 

[Modoc ED]

Thanks guys. Today I took another stab at the Sharpmaker and my dull Izula.

I did according to their manual exactly!

For a back bevel 30*

20 each corner of diamonds = 40

20 each side of diamond flats = 40

20 each corner of brown/gray = 40

20 each side of brown/gray flats = 40

20 each corner of white fine = 40

20 each side of white fine flats = 40

20 each corner of white x-fine = 40

20 each side of white x-fine flats = 40

40* Working Edge - Repeat above w/o Diamond rods

Do the math and this sucker still won't easily cut paper! Rips it, rolls across the top of it and sounds like a chalkboard. Cuts once in awhile.

Is that 560 strokes or is my math off? My shoulder is sore - Sharpmaker blows IMHO :barf:

Leave out the diamond rods and leave out the x-fine rods.

Use the grey medium and white fine rods only.

Before you start, wash the rods with Comet Cleanser, green Scotch Brite pad, hot water.

Use the 30º rod positions

Don't use heavy strokes.

Slow, even, light, strokes work best. Stop the blade BEFORE it leaves the rod when using the flats. This will keep your blade point sharp/pointy. If you keep slipping it off the rod on each stroke you will get a blunt point.

If you use your knife mostly for utility work, the 30º rod position is best.

If you use your knive for finish work, slicing food, etc. the 40º rod position is best.

Do you have the DVD that comes with the Sharpmaker? If not, order one from Spyderco for about $5.00 . Pay attention -- especially the part where Sal shows you how to stroke new rods together in order to break the surface.

 

[cziv]

Leave out the diamond rods and leave out the x-fine rods.

Use the grey medium and white fine rods only.

Before you start, wash the rods with Comet Cleanser, green Scotch Brite pad, hot water.

Use the 30º rod positions

Don't use heavy strokes.

Slow, even, light, strokes work best. Stop the blade BEFORE it leaves the rod when using the flats. This will keep your blade point sharp/pointy. If you keep slipping it off the rod on each stroke you will get a blunt point.

If you use your knife mostly for utility work, the 30º rod position is best.

If you use your knive for finish work, slicing food, etc. the 40º rod position is best.

Do you have the DVD that comes with the Sharpmaker? Pay attention -- especially the part where Sal shows you how to stroke new rods together in order to break the surface

Leave out the diamond rods and leave out the x-fine rods

Okay.

Use the 30º rod positions

On the Izula I'm just hitting shoulders at this position

If you use your knife mostly for utility work, the 30º rod position is best.

If you use your knive for finish work, slicing food, etc. the 40º rod position is best.

Why do you say this? 30* is sharpest right, no matter what you do with the knife?

Do you have the DVD that comes with the Sharpmaker

Yes, I'll watch it again and I do scour the the rods if they get discolored or slippery.

stroke new rods together in order to break the surface

I must have missed this? Thanks!

 

[cziv]

Modoc ED,

Re-watched the video where Sal is sharpening a SAK (anybody could do that in their sleep..lol) but in fairness, I only used the prescribed rods and followed your/his directions and the 1095 ROWEN Izula laughs at it - not one bit sharper.

Benchmade S30V and D2 laughs at it too, the S30V a little harder though.

The only thing the Izula really responds to is the coarse DMT Diafold. I'll be buying the x-coarse and xx-coarse for re-profiling and quick removal of hard or excess stock.

Thanks anyway though it was fun, I like to sharpen YMMV