• Happy Thanksgiving to all of you! I hope that you all have something to be grateful for this year and for many years to come

  • The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/

  • America has reached 250 years, and I am grateful to be here, in the best country in the world. Thank every one of you who helps make this country a better place, those who have gone before and risked it all, and those who've paid the ultimate price to make the United States what we are today.

    Happy Birthday America! Let Freedom Ring for all time!

DMT magna guide tips?

R

r.lynn

Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Messages
35
After snooping around in here a little while I just ordered the DMT magna guide kit with the EE/E/F/C stones.

I have always just used a small pocket stone to sharpen my pocket knife and always sharpened until I could shave hair.

Any tips or suggestions to get me on the right track to scary sharp and how far will this kit get me?

For the what are you sharpening question: I carry a Spyderco Endura now and have a few Case folders but I have plans on a bigger camping knife in the future. I would also like to buy a glock knife eventually.
 
The aligner will work with blades up to around 7in or so, small blades like those found on a SAK can be done but your better off just using a small stone or freehand with the diamond's.


First forget about the bevel that is on the knife, you will be completely re-setting it. The factory bevel on most all knives will not even be close to the angles the aligner will produce and for this reason you must grind in the bevel the aligner wants to make. Placement of the clamp has a sweet spot usually just a hair back from half way to the tip.

In this section place a piece of masking tape, this will allow the clamp to better grip the blade. You can also trim off the stop tabs on the clamp because they will get in the way with some knives and allows you more angle adjustment by changing the distance from the edge. With the clamp loose pinch the jaws on the blade, tighten the metal screw to finger nail tight then back off a 1/8 or less turn. You want the clamp the take the angle of the blade sides for best alignment.

After the metal screw is set tighten down the plastic screw until your fingers hurt. Check by trying to wiggle the clamp, if it does not move your good.

For a saber ground endura you would use a level 5 and if its FFG a level 6. Start with your coarse stone (XC would be good to have) and place your index finger on the guide rod using light pressure to hold it down and in one possition. Use your other fingers to support the stone and with just the weight of your fingers as pressure start creating your new bevel.

You can use a zig zag over lapping pattern or single swipes, whatever feels best for you. Work the side evenly and not one all at once. Grind with your coarse stone until you have created a perfect "V" in the blade, as you get closer to this "V" a burr will start to form on the edge. When the edge has been formed the burr will move side to side with each opposing stroke of the stone. Use decreasing amounts of pressure until it feels as though you are not even making contact and this burr will go away.

After the bevel setting process with the coarse DMT your edge will be very toothy and sharp, shaving sharp easily. You continue to process with each finer stone using the same reduction of pressure technique and by the finish of the EEF your edge will be hair splitting sharp.

If the stones are fresh don't expect greatness from the start, they take time to break-in. You will still have a very sharp knife but with time it will only get sharper.

Give her a go and let us know if you have any problems.
 
Wow, I just learned a ton from that post. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.

Thanks for the effort you put into answering questions here.
 
Last edited:
knifenut1013 said:
For a saber ground endura you would use a level 5 and if its FFG a level 6.
Click to expand...

First of all, thanks for the advice. I was hoping you(Knifenut) would chyme in as I have read a lot of your posts. How do I know which one of these bad boys do I have(saber or FFG? It is a regular blade with no serrations.
 
Saber ground would be a grind reducing the full thickness of the blade starting at around the half way point of the blade. FFG is a complete flat grind down the side of a blade.

Both of these are saber ground

Picture1467.jpg


This is a Full Flat Grind
Picture1367.jpg
 
Well my kit showed up and the blue/red stone is broken. They were never glued/welded together properly. I called DMT and they were very nice about it. They are sending me a new one. I have done some filing and tried to get it to snap together but I can't get them to go together.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Start with your coarse stone (XC would be good to have) and place your index finger on the guide rod using light pressure to hold it down and in one possition. Use your other fingers to support the stone and with just the weight of your fingers as pressure start creating your new bevel.
Click to expand...

One more queston......
I am trying to get the feel using the fine stone and I don't understanding how you hold the stone.

Could you explain this in a bit more detail?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top