Do I have the right taps, or do I need something different?

jonnymac44

jonnymac44

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Sep 27, 2007
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I'm in the midst of a batch of fixed blades, but I'm getting things lined up to start working on some folders. I have some .066" Ti that I plan on using for liners. My initial design was set up with threaded barrel spacers so that I didn't have to do any tapping, but I know that I should be able to tap my own threads if I'm going to be serious about this, so I picked up a tap wrench and made myself a tap guide out of a block of aluminum. I have some 2-56 taps that a buddy of mine gave me, USA made, I believe from Greenfield. The tap set has three different taps in it, each with a slightly different look to it. One is fairly thick, the second is a bit more tapered and the third is more tapered than the second. Do I need to use all three, or just one. Are they each made for different materials or do I use them progressively? I haven't tapped threads before.

Also, I should add that I will be trying this by hand for now and have a ratcheting tap wrench to try for now. I would love to grab a tapmatic, but that won't happen for a little while yet. Too many other needs in the shop at the moment.

Any advice?

Thanks!
 
the one with the most taper is the starting tap, then the plug tap and the bottom tap,
usually you can get by with just a plug tap, the bottom tap is for making threads to the bottom of a blind hole. being that ti is tough, i would start with the starting tap and follow thru with the plug, and if its a blind hole the bottom tap will be used.
 
Also, 1 to 2 sizes larger drill for TI is often recommended. If you stick or break a tap in TI good old ferric cloride will eat the tap without bothering the TI
 
If it's a through hole you can just run the tapered tap through it. It will cut the threads the most gradually so you can use the right sized bit and get the best fit. You may want to tap a scrap piece first and see how the fasteners you have will fit. And if you don't already have cutting fluid for titanium then Hoppes Elite is the best titanium fluid I have ever used. I don't know what they put in it but it works better than cutting and tapping fluid made specifically for titanium.
 
Be very careful tapping a 2-56 by hand without a guide. Those taps are very fragile, go slow and take your time with lots of lube.
 
I just broke a 2-56 tap in a piece of Ti yesterday. I was able to unthread the broken piece but those 2-56 taps are tiny and fragile. Thanks for starting this thread JohnnyMac, it's taught me a lot.
 
If you have a drill press you a chuck up on the tap and use it to tap by hand. Lay the liner on the table and spin the chuck by hand. This will keep the tap straight. Tapping crooked will break a tap quicker than anything.
 
LOL, Brian....already have spares, and I did already make a guide. I'm starting to think that I'm going to break down and just buy a Tapmatic very soon!:D
 
To get by, you can place the tapitself in a drill press, pull out the power cord on it, set up the table so the material is close to making contact, hold the quill down with one hand and turn the chuck with the other. It should help prevent broken taps.You can also buy a fixture that is made to go into a drill press and turn by hand for $20.00 or so that work very well and for smaller sizes too. Frank
 
I'm late to the party, but I'll add my .02.

The main trick to hand tapping is to keep the tap aligned with the hole, and keep your forces rotational around the axis, no bending. That and a good tapping fluid will get you through. Moly-dee is the best tapping fluid I have used. Stay away from things like wd-40.

If it is a through hole, use the most tapered tap.

Taps dull. Don't be tempted to squeeze one last hole out of a dull tap on an important piece.

Get some good tapping fluid and use your tapping fixture correctly and you'll do fine.


I have a bunch of 2-56 holes I have to thread today that are in shallow square bottomed holes and the thread goes all the way to the very bottom, full form. I'm going to have to mill them, and thread milling 2-56 makes my sphincter pucker. I'm envisioning some broken thread mills in my near future. $$$ meh...
 
HOLY SMOKES, thread milling 2-56 that would make it pucker really hard. Might even suck the stool right off the floor. Like many others have advised, used good quality sharp taps with a good cutting fluid. Luckily tapping through a piece of .066 is not too difficult even with a 2-56. Keep it straight and you'll be fine.
 
Thanks Brian,
I just looked into some forming taps and read an article about the difference between cutting and forming. Under $20 for a Japanese made forming tap from Grainger seems like a small price to pay if the results are better.
 
Off hand, away from the shop, I couldn't give you exact bit sizes and such. But the most used tap for me is 172, and I believe a 1/16" bit for the tap, and if I remember rite a 5/64" for clearance. That's why I write it all down. As for tapping I've tried everything short of a tapmatic and the best results I get are with a battery drill with the clutch set low.

Good luck and hope this helps
 
5/64" = .0781" it will bind, #44 is .086" and the proper tight clearance bit. #43 (.089") for close clearance fit. I just bought a bunch of these bits so I know they work and the 5/64" doesn't cuz I had it and tried. Also the 5/64" will give .005" less than 50% thread.


-Xander
 
Last edited:
fast14riot said:
5/64" = .0781" it will bind, #44 is .086" and the proper tight clearance bit. #43 (.089") for close clearance fit. I just bought a bunch of these bits so I know they work and the 5/64" doesn't cuz I had it and tried. Also the 5/64" will give .005" less than 50% thread.


-Xander
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, Xander. I had read somewhere that the bit I should use for a 2-56 was a #50. Is that correct, or should I be closer to the #44 or #43 that you mentioned?
 
2-56 major thread diameter is .086" for 75% thread #50 (.0700") is the correct bit. #44 is for clearance non-threaded holes, like in pocket clips and back spacers.

Here is everything you need:

Tap Drill Chart


-Xander
 
What about Ti makes tapping difficult? I have a project I am going to be starting on soon as well that I will need to tap Ti and am wondering why the different specs.


-Xander
 
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