Do i have to hold 1080 steel at austenite state?

[SethO]

Like the title says do i have to hold 1080 steel at austenite state for any period of time? I know i made other threads asking about other metals but i decided to go with 1080 for my first steel. So once i get to 1500 F i can quench it? SO when i reach non magnetic and look at the color red/orange of the blade, should i go a couple shades darker, then hold or just quench? I posted another thread about 1095 and this is what i was told, also will a shadow pass on 1080 steel like with 1095 or is this for all steels that reach critical temp? I was thinking about getting a temp gun for this, does anyone have any experience using a temp gun while heat treating?

 

[viral]

Go a shade or 2 past non magnetic and quench. 1080 is a simple carbon steel so it does not need a soak. 1095 needs more accurately controlled temps. There is plenty of info on it already on the forum.

 

[samuraistuart]

Seth, the 1080 and 1084 steels really do not need any soak. You must remember tho that the magnet will stop sticking around 1414°F....however you need to be AT 1475°F-1500°F. So if you quench AT non-magnetic, you will not have enough carbon in solution. So, yes, go "a shade or two more past non-magnetic". Make sure the entire blade is at an even heat and quench. If you are able to hold for a minute or two, even better. Just remember....the point where the magnet stops sticking is not hot enough. You need another 75°F or so to quench.

Yes, you will also notice decalescence with 1080 as well....and decalescence is way more accurate than the magnet. Decalescence will tell you exactly you have reached critical temp. If you can watch those shadows...go with that method over the magnet.

Temp guns, like the IR kind, are great for tempering and judging tempering temps, but they aren't going to work well to judge hardening temp.

 

[SethO]

Alright thanks for all the help. I will be making my knife next week hopefully, if all the stuff i ordered online comes in on time.