- Joined
- Dec 7, 2008
- Messages
- 7,187
A while back another wood supplier posted a thread with some handle material questions.
One of the knife makers used it as an opportunity to complain about the cost of stabilized Maple burl blocks. Going as far as to call it criminal and that the seller was a thief. He had mentioned maple blocks selling for over $50. While he did not name names, I took it personal. So I figured I should do what I can to give all of you an alternative.
When I was growing up my dad taught me and my brothers that if you complain without doing anything about it, then you are just a whiner. But if you did something about it, that was part of growing up and being a man.
Now that I have finished complaining, here is a solution for those of you who want save or make money by doing it themselves. My information is based on 8 years of providing handle material to the knife makers here on blade forums. My feeling is that those who are vocal saying that people are being ripped off should be offered an alternative. Maybe sharing this information will help them to get started providing low price handle material to other knife makers. Or maybe they just like to complain. I am betting on #2.
Obtaining the raw wood
Good figured wood and burl is something that you are not likely to find in a lumber store so you have to look elsewhere.
Sometimes you can find decent wood on ebay. My success rate is about 50% with what I have purchased there. Not that there was a lot of bad wood but what is wanted for handle material and what is used for turning or other crafts can be totally different. Most of the time the wood will need more drying time.
Another source is Craigs List. Sometimes you can find decent raw wood but more often you can find old burl furniture that you can repurpose by cutting it up for handle material.
Another source can be Tree Service companies. Sometimes they will sell you whole logs at firewood prices.
Processing the raw wood
Unless what you find has been kiln dried or cut and allowed to dry for a few years you will need to cut and dry the wood.
Drying: When you mill the wood you need to allow at least a year of air drying time per inch of thickness. Some woods take longer. Based on my experience walnut takes about double the time needed for maple. Denser woods take even longer.
After the wood is dry (under 10% moisture content) you can cut and trim your pieces to go to the stabilizers. I suggest using K&G because I feel they are best. Some might want to try to save a bit by using a cheaper stabilizing company or do it themselves using over the counter stabilizing solutions. Based on my experience there is a big difference in what you get by having K&G do the stabilizing.
Getting the wood stabilized
When you have a batch ready for the stabilizers you will need to ship the blocks to the stabilizers. After they are done they will call and tell you what you owe. You pay a per pound rate based on the after stabilizing weight of your wood. Also the cost of shipping back to you.
Preparing the stabilized wood
When the stabilized wood comes back to you, you will need to clean it up so you can see how the wood turned out. There can be some loss during the stabilizing process. Not the fault of the stabilizers. Since you are dealing with a natural material you don't know how things will turn out until you see how things turn out. The blocks will be covered with cured stabilized solution kind of like dried fiberglass resin. The wood can warp or twist a bit during the curing process. You will need to sand or trim away the cured gunk as well as flatten and square up the wood.
If you plan to sell
To sell the wood you will need to take good photos and make them available to purchase on the forums or on your own web site.
After you get paid you need to ship the pieces to the purchaser. If the order gets lost in the mail or impounded by customs that is your loss, not the purchaser.
The tools you will need
While you might be able to manage with less equipment these are what I consider the minimum needed.
You can pay to have large burls and log sections milled. Around here you pay $75 to $100+ per hour for milling time.
Bandsaw for cutting blocks. A 14 inch bandsaw is the minimum.
Sanders. Disc sander for flats and squaring. Drum sander to even up the thickness, especially for scales. Stationary belt sander for finer grit sanding. Then a palm sander for final, finer grit sanding. This is not to mention a dedicated wood working and storage area or other equipment like a dust collector.
To sell you will need a decent digital camera and computer so you can list the stabilized wood for sale.
When determining your selling price you need to consider the following things.
Cost of the raw wood.
Cost of stabilizing.
Postage for shipping to and from the stabilizers.
and......maybe a little bit for overhead, cost of tools and your time.
Sounds easy enough. Now those who were complaining have an opportunity to make lots of money while providing handle material at a reasonable price. So if you complained and don't want to be thought of as a whiner, here is your chance to do something about it.
Disclaimer
Most of the knife makers (99%) who purchase from me are wonderful people who understand the cost to produce good handle material as well as the need to be paid for my time and labor. I will do my best to continue to provide them with what they want. Over the past eight years they have treated me better than I deserve. Thank you for making it possible for me to do something that I enjoy and provide for my family at the same time.
One of the knife makers used it as an opportunity to complain about the cost of stabilized Maple burl blocks. Going as far as to call it criminal and that the seller was a thief. He had mentioned maple blocks selling for over $50. While he did not name names, I took it personal. So I figured I should do what I can to give all of you an alternative.
When I was growing up my dad taught me and my brothers that if you complain without doing anything about it, then you are just a whiner. But if you did something about it, that was part of growing up and being a man.
Now that I have finished complaining, here is a solution for those of you who want save or make money by doing it themselves. My information is based on 8 years of providing handle material to the knife makers here on blade forums. My feeling is that those who are vocal saying that people are being ripped off should be offered an alternative. Maybe sharing this information will help them to get started providing low price handle material to other knife makers. Or maybe they just like to complain. I am betting on #2.
Obtaining the raw wood
Good figured wood and burl is something that you are not likely to find in a lumber store so you have to look elsewhere.
Sometimes you can find decent wood on ebay. My success rate is about 50% with what I have purchased there. Not that there was a lot of bad wood but what is wanted for handle material and what is used for turning or other crafts can be totally different. Most of the time the wood will need more drying time.
Another source is Craigs List. Sometimes you can find decent raw wood but more often you can find old burl furniture that you can repurpose by cutting it up for handle material.
Another source can be Tree Service companies. Sometimes they will sell you whole logs at firewood prices.
Processing the raw wood
Unless what you find has been kiln dried or cut and allowed to dry for a few years you will need to cut and dry the wood.
Drying: When you mill the wood you need to allow at least a year of air drying time per inch of thickness. Some woods take longer. Based on my experience walnut takes about double the time needed for maple. Denser woods take even longer.
After the wood is dry (under 10% moisture content) you can cut and trim your pieces to go to the stabilizers. I suggest using K&G because I feel they are best. Some might want to try to save a bit by using a cheaper stabilizing company or do it themselves using over the counter stabilizing solutions. Based on my experience there is a big difference in what you get by having K&G do the stabilizing.
Getting the wood stabilized
When you have a batch ready for the stabilizers you will need to ship the blocks to the stabilizers. After they are done they will call and tell you what you owe. You pay a per pound rate based on the after stabilizing weight of your wood. Also the cost of shipping back to you.
Preparing the stabilized wood
When the stabilized wood comes back to you, you will need to clean it up so you can see how the wood turned out. There can be some loss during the stabilizing process. Not the fault of the stabilizers. Since you are dealing with a natural material you don't know how things will turn out until you see how things turn out. The blocks will be covered with cured stabilized solution kind of like dried fiberglass resin. The wood can warp or twist a bit during the curing process. You will need to sand or trim away the cured gunk as well as flatten and square up the wood.
If you plan to sell
To sell the wood you will need to take good photos and make them available to purchase on the forums or on your own web site.
After you get paid you need to ship the pieces to the purchaser. If the order gets lost in the mail or impounded by customs that is your loss, not the purchaser.
The tools you will need
While you might be able to manage with less equipment these are what I consider the minimum needed.
You can pay to have large burls and log sections milled. Around here you pay $75 to $100+ per hour for milling time.
Bandsaw for cutting blocks. A 14 inch bandsaw is the minimum.
Sanders. Disc sander for flats and squaring. Drum sander to even up the thickness, especially for scales. Stationary belt sander for finer grit sanding. Then a palm sander for final, finer grit sanding. This is not to mention a dedicated wood working and storage area or other equipment like a dust collector.
To sell you will need a decent digital camera and computer so you can list the stabilized wood for sale.
When determining your selling price you need to consider the following things.
Cost of the raw wood.
Cost of stabilizing.
Postage for shipping to and from the stabilizers.
and......maybe a little bit for overhead, cost of tools and your time.
Sounds easy enough. Now those who were complaining have an opportunity to make lots of money while providing handle material at a reasonable price. So if you complained and don't want to be thought of as a whiner, here is your chance to do something about it.
Disclaimer
Most of the knife makers (99%) who purchase from me are wonderful people who understand the cost to produce good handle material as well as the need to be paid for my time and labor. I will do my best to continue to provide them with what they want. Over the past eight years they have treated me better than I deserve. Thank you for making it possible for me to do something that I enjoy and provide for my family at the same time.
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