Do You Have A Cut-Off Point In Blade Steels?

[dsmegst]

I have tried these steels as of recently.

VG10 - spydercos, does not take a really good edge, holds whatever you put there quite long, and is "usable" for a long time once it degrades, chips very easy, sharpens very slow, stains fast. All in all it looks good on paper with the tough cobalt in there but in reality its not better than 12c27, its actually worse. And alot more time consuming.

VG-10 doesn't take a good edge? That's news to me. My VG-10 Spydies take a really good edge. Better than S30V in my experience. How are you finishing the edge, I'm curious.

 

[bcornelis]

I have a couple of older knives in 440A. I wouldn't buy a knife in that steel anymore based on the ability of the steel to hold an edge.

 

[Mitchell Knives]

VG10 and 154CM/ATS34 take a fantastic edge and will hold it for a decent amount of time.

 

[ultrafine]

VG-10 doesn't take a good edge? That's news to me. My VG-10 Spydies take a really good edge. Better than S30V in my experience. How are you finishing the edge, I'm curious.

With the spyderco sharpmaker, first 30degrees all 4 variations, then 40 degree all 4 variations, then sometimes on a spyderco ultrafine benchstone. Rough jobs with 300 and 5-600 grit diamond plates.

Actually it takes a good edge, but not as good as s30v or 1095/O1 or any sandvik steel. and to make matters worse it chips just as bad as s30v, and stains the worst of any stainless I have used, overall this is the worst stainless steel "package" I have had experience with, its probably superb for japanese kitchenknives at 61-62 hrc, but in the condition spyderco heat treats it (cutting corners, underhardening it) it just sucks IMO. common sense would dictate an even harder VG10 would chip out even worse but this is not always true, sometimes this is not linear and I have not read much negative on full hard japanese VG10 kitchen knives.

IMO you should always harden at max hardness, want softer/cant afford to make harder/cant mass produce at these required temps, get a lower alloyed steel and harden that to max hardness instead.

 

[sodak]

Rostafrei!!!! I'm not worthy!

I might have to steal that gif, thanks!

It's been awhile since since I studied German, but I think rostafrei= rostfrei= rustfree= stainless. You are worthy, but you may not want to be.

Here's the thread for you to read (it's worth the time, mon ):

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168550&highlight=rostafrei

Seriously, I like both the high end and the ordinary. I've come to appreciate the proper grinds more than anything!

 

[Jpalmer1988]

I wouldn't use any established steel lower then AUS6. I do like trying out new and different steels.

 

[JNewell]

I fully understand that us knife nuts are going to want better blade steels &, usually do. That's why we spend the $ we do on nicer knives. Most of us don't really want or use say, 440A or AUS-6 or below steels, etc.

Do you have a cut-off as to what blade steel you'll use & what's enough?

My point here is that while we probably all like the longer edge holding of, say, ZDP-189, SG2, etc, what's our minimum & really acceptable for a decent folder?

I've had knives with ZDP-189, SG2, M4, M390, etc. While I've liked the edge holding of these steels, there's not as many different types of knives with these steel. Lately, I've been finding myself using knives with ATS-34, 154CM, S30V, etc steels & am fine with them. Their edge holding is acceptable & I can get these knives plenty sharp within a reasonable time (Not that sharpening higher RC steels is that bad, just that the aforementioned steels are easier to sharpen).

Recently, I've really been impressed with the Hogue/Elishewitz EX01 folders (I have a 3.5" & 4" version). They use 154CM steel. While it's a perfectly acceptable steel, it's not a "super" steel & seems to have fallen out of favor, partially due to CPM 154. This got me thinking about what steel type is enough.

FWIW, these days I seem to be fine with ATS-34/154CM steel or so. I do have & use knives in other steels, but don't feel like I have inferior steel when I use the ones listed.
Any thoughts on this & what's enough?

I have S90V, 110V, CPM-M4, ZDP-189...but I agree, ATS-34 and 154CM were darned good when they were introduced and they're still darned good. :thumbup:

 

[tiguy7]

It sounds to me like the Wootz makers missed the boat. They put mulberry leaves in their melt. They should have used Jamaican herbs.

 

[sodak]

It sounds to me like the Wootz makers missed the boat. They put mulberry leaves in their melt. They should have used Jamaican herbs.

Ja mon.

 

[lava_lamp]

It's not so much that I am super picky about steels, but the best knives (and the ones I'm looking for at this point) tend to have at least VG-10, S30V, or 154 CM. There are a few that I've considered and then didn't buy because they were AUS-8, such as the Cold Steel American Lawman.

 

[NeoClassic]

When something is advertised as "400 series" steel or "surgical" steel, I know they're being dishonest, don't have pride in their product and I won't buy from them.

I have avoided buying scores of crappy knives using this rationale. :thumbup:

But there are knives I will buy and have bought that do use "generic" steel:
-Victorinox
-Mora
-Opinel

I'm a casual knife user, so the benefits of super steels are purely academic to me.

The fanciest steel I have is 440C. I plan to get some Fallknivens with laminated VG10. That's about as exotic as I need to go right now.

If I ever require the added performance of higher-grade steels, I'll be sure to get a knife made with one.

EDIT---

Design and ergonomics are more important to me than steels, since I rarely use a knife hard enough between sharpening to really notice the superior edge holding qualities of the super steels.

My sentiments exactly. I will pick a knife with good ergos and middling steel over one with bad ergos and super steel any day. My hand always fatigues faster than the steel when I'm whittling.