Do you keep the original edge??

I usually try to keep the original edge, but though freehand sharpening on DMTs I suppose it will eventually turn somewhat convex? Most important for me is that it cuts what needs cutting, I don't really care about exact edge angles, if it slices paper I'm happy :)
 
I run the factory edge until it needs that first resharpen and then I put my own edge on it--unless it's a Mora. Those get a high polish straight away just because I can. :)
 
Oh, it varies. I thought I had a preference a long time ago, but it turned out to be borne of ignorance. Most of my sharpening was freehand until I got into modern steels, had to get better stones, and educated. Thanks, fellow knife nerds on the internet. I still like to freehand my D2's, 1095's and 420's on old stones, but I like to try and keep the angles more consistent and not just erode the metal.

My modern steels, unless something chips or rolls, I'm only stropping. Mostly. Right now the only diamond I have is a rod, but it can be fixed to match angles. I don't aim to reprofile if I don't gotta. And if I do gotta, I'll see if the manufacturer will fix it first. For instance, I got a Buck Onset that I do like, still factory sharp enough for me, but the edge looks like each side was ground by a different bladesmith on different days. On different machines. In different factories. When it eventually needs touched up, I reckon it won't hurt to call and see if I can get just one person to service it before lunch.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
No, I don't. I hate shoulders, even guided systems leave prominent shoulders. I blend them free hand into a convex, this allows me to maintain via strop for long periods of time.

On my pricier knives, I do a more subtle blending instead of going full hog.
Click to expand...

I sometimes use a guided system to get nice perfect bevels on both sides, then convex. Some of the factory grinds are really bad at the tip and the heel. The guided system helps to put that right quickly and makes a great starting point for shoulder removal.
 
Mostly I do keep the original edge . . .anymore.

Latley, I have lost patience with stroking knives to a shaving sharp edge. I don't cut much more than packages from Amazon or snack food wrappers.. I used to put a 17 degree edge on my Buck 110s and polished that to 1000 grit. I enjoyed the amazed reaction from non knife coworkers when cutting stuff up at work (a hospital). But nowadays I just touch up the edge on my multitool once a year or so, usually just before Christmas.

RE snack food wrappers: In my youth products came wrapped in a protective film (cellophane?) that was sturdy enough but easily removed. Often there was a little red bit of stronger stuff that let you rip it off more easily. Today, everything comes hermetically sealed and vacuum packed in Kevlar plastic film. I have difficulty opening a bag of chips without using my teeth . . .or my EDC multitool.
 
I use a fixed angle sharpener and, like the OP, the first step is to determine the factory edge angle using a sharpie. The sharpie also tells me how inconsistent the edge is heel to tip and side to side. Generally speaking, most knives have wonky factory edges, even premium knives. As mentioned, these blemishes can be fixed, it's just a matter of removing enough steel (shortening blade life).
 
donnord donnord , I used to thin the edges quite a bit, much as Wandering_About Wandering_About has done, above, but as my collection slims down to traditionals from France, Italy, and Finland, I am leaving them as they come. Generally, I agree with your approach. Except with Opinels! I use Opinels all the time and as much as I love them beyond measure, they come with terrible edges. The carbone models take a screaming lethal edge, though.
 
Some makers are talented, outstanding at their craft. Their grinds and bevel setting deliver almost perfectly symmetrical bevels. I don't need to do much with these particular knives when it comes time to sharpen. They literally gave me a guideline to work with. Easy. Other makers, well, they got some things right. I have to straighten the bevel and reduce the angle by 2-3 degrees or per side.
 
I touch up until I feel the need to do a full blown sharpening. Then I reprofile to my own standards. Matching the factory edge seems like overkill to me considering that it’s no more difficult to create my own edge.
 
I typically keep factory edges sharp with freehand 1000 grit diamond stone. So little in the way of reprofiling. Buck is different than Benchmade and Spyderco is different than both. They are all well and truly sharp.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top