do you prototype your knives first?

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Apr 12, 2004
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I'm curious how many folks here prototype a knife before creating the finished product. If so, what material do you use to make your prototype? Wood seems like a good choice but there are probably plenty of plastic type materials that would work well too.
 
Every knife I make is a prototype for the next one :) I have several standard models, but do them all by eye individually. I don't have any profiled patterns or prototypes.
 
I'm new at this, but I don't have any standards yet. Each one is a progression from the last. I usually have 6 or so on the go, but the disadvantage is as you get better, you realize something on a knife that is nearly done could be a lot better. I'm learning to make peace with that, especially since I am giving away the first 10 "reasonably well done" knives as testers to make sure I haven't been screwing up HT, or assembly. If I am having problems, I want to know before I take someone's money.
 
Wood is good for mocking up.
I usually cut out on cardboard first, if that feels alright I'll make one out of wood.
If the real knife, when done, is a design I really like I'll make a template out of aluminum or a cheaper steel like 1084.
 
I do, it normally starts out with a solid works drawing, then print it out and cut it out of cardboard. Then back to the drawing board with the changes I need to make.
 
I most often make up out of thin counter top micarta a new outline for every folder I make and then go from there if I want to change it . Frank
 
I'm new at this, but I don't have any standards yet. Each one is a progression from the last. I usually have 6 or so on the go, but the disadvantage is as you get better, you realize something on a knife that is nearly done could be a lot better. I'm learning to make peace with that, especially since I am giving away the first 10 "reasonably well done" knives as testers to make sure I haven't been screwing up HT, or assembly. If I am having problems, I want to know before I take someone's money.

Good on you for getting some knives out there for testing before turning profit with an un-proven product.
 
I doodle my knives up with a scratch stick and some paper, then I usually scan and print it, transfer to either wood or cardboard... then... then... well I haven't gone further, BUT i just got my steel in from Aldo, so if I can get a few free days I'll let you know how the rest my process works out =)
 
Prototype to me is a strong word. I just had one in folders for sale that was my
first drawing, mock up, (in mild steel) and finished product . I could easily have
marked it proto but consider it a design issue more that a 1st knife that I made.
Certain people get credit for designs but I'll bet if we go back to busted rocks
and flint there's a whole lot of shapes out there.
Ken
 
I have made 100's of prototypes for some designs, it all depends.

Once you have a proven handle or blade shape you may be good to go right from the start, other designs may take a year or so.
 
i normally look at a piece of steel and see a knife in it someplace,,,, i start grinding,,, and i will be darned, a knife starts taking shape, sometimes i like it so well i try and recreate it , but only come close the 2nd time
 
I start with paper cutouts first to get a general idea of the size and handle shape. Paper cause I usually go through about a dozen or so of these and it's quicker. Then when I am satisfied I'll move to cardboard cutouts. Usually takes about 2-3 of those before I get it right. Then I'll leave the cardboard cutout on the living room table and play/look at it from time to time for a few days. Sometimes that will show me little things that can be improved. And that's about all the "prototyping" I do.
 
I start with a hand drawn sketch which I scan into the computer or start with a design I've created on the computer. I work out the proportions so they fit my hand well then print it out. I check how the proportions of the print out look/feel in relation to my hand. If needed I'll adjust sizes or proportions in the computer until I'm reasonably satisfied. That print gets some spray adhesive and then applied to the smooth side of a piece of Masonite board. The same can be done with acrylic sheet or other kind of board. I like Masonite board as it is similar dimension to the steel I'll be using. It is stiffer than cardboard and it cuts/sands easily. I cut out the template leaving a little room outside of the lines. The template is then profiled exactly the same way I would with steel on a variety of sanders. This gives me a durable reusable template that has similar proportions to the steel I'll be using. I can play with it in my hands for a few days if necessary to get a feel for the intended product and make changes easily if needed. I apply Dykem to my steel blank then line up my template on the steel and secure it with a couple of vise grip pliers. Trace the template with a carbide scribe and you're good to go. The template is of course saved for duplicates if desired. Really though, once you get to working on the actual knife, you are going to adjust as you go. All the knives I'm making now are prototypes. Once they are tested they will either become one-offs or patterns that can be replicated if a customer asks for that design.

Here is a quick example:



I started with the template on top but as you can see I made design changes along the way. I decided I preferred a full flat grind for reduced weight and better slicing as well as a much larger hole in the tang for better handling and visual balance. I thought the template would make a nice little utility knife but with the changes I made it really turned out to be a light, quick handling little slicer.
 
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