One also needs to consider the following:
EDGE geometry is the key factor whether one's blade stock is "thick" or "thin". I've worked with lean, mean, lightweight blades whose makers did not understand how to properly create the appropriate (task driven) edge. You can have a "thick" edge on a thin stock blade which defeats the purpose of the "thin" stock, or a "wire" edge on a "thick" blade that rolls off under moderate to hard tasking(s).
Years ago I attempted to work with one very popular/famous combat knife designer/maker's premier fixed blade model. The blade stock was moderate but the edge geometery was all wrong. It simply did not have a more than "present" edge and could not be reconfigured by the world renowned custom maker Ted Dowell, of Oregon. Ted told me after giving up in disgust that the maker in question clearly did not know how to properly grind an edge! I later learned from someone close to the maker that in his early years he was never taught the value and skill of proper edge geometry...so his early edges were poor and he relied upon telling his clients they could "fine tune" the as-is edge to meet their specific needs...which most - to include Ted Dowell on my behalf - could not.
And yes, since then the maker has learned how to "do" wonderful edge geometry and his knives are truly SHARP in the appropriate manner...whether battle blade or gentleman's folder.
The proper tempering process for the blade/edge is likewise a critical factor. The RC at a knife's edge is often different than the RC at the ricasso, or at the blade's back. The rough blank may be RC'd to XXX, but after being ground, and the edge finished/polished by grinding, the RC at these locations on the blade will differ...often tremendously. At FK I once had a certified expert tear down a number of the same style knife and test the RC at different points on the blade...to include their edges...to see if what I'd been told about this was true or not. It's true. This is one reason makers are loathe to regrind or reconfigure an already put in place cutting edge (especially from someone else) because unless done exactly right one can destroy the temper at the edge and in conjunction change the RC rating at this/these points...with the result being sometimes dramatic changes in edge holding/performance.
It is not enough to simply offer that a "thin" knife is better than a "thick" knife. Those on the mark here are right to offer one's NEEDS for the knife and preferences for ease of storage or carry are often the first criteria considered. From here the truly wise consumer will research the sources of the knives he or she is considering, and ask good questions or seek smart answers from all those info points available.
Finally, re: no one being "dumb" enough to use a lockback folder to bust an ammo or MRE band.
Many who have chosen and paid for exceptional hard-use lockback folders for such potential taskings have used them in this manner with no problem when and where it becomes necessary. I've popped ammo crate and MRE bands handily with my STRIDER tac-folder due to its truly beefy construction and superior lock system. The original AMK SERE was likewise envisoned by COL Nick Rowe and manufactured by Al Mar to attend successfully to such tasks. Many times the clip carry SUPER TAC FOLDER is what you have handy 'cause your LBE/LVE with your sheath knife is off / unavailable, or the SOG POWER TOOL is being used by someone else needing a hand nearby. Would I attempt to pop an ammo band with a Spyderco ENDURA? Probably not. Wrong construction for the job. An MRE band? Sure. Made of plastic (the band) the ENDURA blade snaps right through it when pushed beneath the band, cutting edge up, and simply lifted against the extraordinary tension the band is under. POP!
Know your task; Know your needs; know your tool/weapon; apply the proper tool/weapon capability to the task at hand; it ain't rocket science.
GW
Kuwait
