Do you use two different edge geometries on 2-blade folder?

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Jul 29, 2006
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A comment some time back peaked my curiosity, as a old hunter and woodsman commented one day that he put a steeper edge angle on one blade of his bullet type knife, the one he used for general purposes, and a flatter edge on the other blade, that he used for delicate work like skinning and whittling. Have any of you heard of this concept, and maybe do it yourself?
 
That absolutely was a thing some years ago. Case for instance did some spey blades like this
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I put different edge angles and finishes on my traditional folder blades. Makes them a bit more versatile imo
 
Heard of it. I don't practice it. I can really only remember one knife I used to do something along that line.

Some decades ago as a young engineer part of my job called for trimming sheets of a silicone rubber material which had been applied to a Mylar backing such that the two materials were exactly even on the edges. Cutting into the Mylar would ruin the piece. I found that the best way to ensure that the Mylar was not cut was to use a dull blade for that trimming operation. So I dulled out the spey blade on the little Buck Cadet I used to carry everyday and used that.
 

Do you use two different edge geometries on 2-blade folder?​

No I remove one of the blades for a cleaner uncluttered grip on the handle . (usually remove the Spay blade on my Trappers . I don't need to spread peanut butter with it .)
ALL of my edges I prefer to have stupid acute ~ 12 degrees per side and 10 thou behind the edge. If I mess up the edge , I am using it wrong (I don't recall that ever happening ).👍👍👍

One specialized knife I have is way more acute ; haven't measured it but it is a zero ground Swiss Army Bantom (must be like 9 degrees per side Polished edge) . . . I was showing off cutting hard white plastic wire ties that were about 1/2 inch wide and the edge got a tiny bit wavy from it . BLEW THROUGH THE WIRE TIES NO PROBLEM THOUGH over and over.
!
I once was using a Temple Builder's Paring chisel (blue paper steel) . It was a chisel grind , obviously , and at twenty degrees "inslusive" . I was using it on some crazy hard and tough Purple Heart wood and the edge was showing a little bit of dinging / rolling .
I increased the total angle to 22 degrees and the thing cut for days parring VERY LARGE dovetail joints with no further edge problems .

So that works out to 11 degrees per side in a pocket knife .
hmmmmm

Can't think of anything else I would do that would need a more obtuse edge . Outside of metal working .

Here is the chisel
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Here are the joints by the by.
Lots of cross grain / end grain cutting . That is what beats on the edge.
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