Does anyone have plans or a cad for a disc work rest they wouldn't mind sharing?

[Kevin Powers]

I have pictures of the prototype that I use which isn't as nice as this one. I'll see what I can come up with.
The difference is the angle plate didn't need to be as big and it contacted the frame on extreme angles, and to be honest I don't even have a bolt in the radius slot to lock the angle. I just tighten the bolt on each side of the table and it works just fine. 2 bolts per side to lock the table arms is excessive as well. Only one is needed. I tacked the nut on the little tab so all I have to do is grab my cordless and pull out the bolt and the table comes off. The one reason I like my table more than others I have seen is that the table articulates more, and when the table is removed you have unobstructed access to the disc. You can grind a plunge cut face on a sword on my disc and you wont hit the frame. The frame is smaller than a 9" wheel.

The table will articulate up to -10 or -15 degrees all the way to 60 or 70 can't recall. All the holes are undersized to allow you to drill to your size hardware, and plasma doesn't cut a round hole well. I use 5/16" hex countersunk bolts without countersinking anything and it works great. The base plate doesn't really need to be quite as big as drawn but its nice and stable. I literally have it clamped to the bench and it works beautifully.

 

[Kevin Powers]

Thanks a lot! What thickness of plate did you end up using?

3/16" HRPO- Hot Rolled Pickled and Oiled. It is was cheaper than cold rolled and works just as good.

 

[Josh Rider]

Kevin, you are the man. Thanks!

 

[Kevin Powers]

Kevin, you are the man. Thanks!

Hope you like it. Post it when you're done! I've gotta weld one up soon so I'll take pics and show how I put it together.

 

[kc custom]

A couple of pics of one, I got the idea from Terry Davis. Really simple, seconds to adjust,
or just drop the workrest to change paper. The block under the machine square is a wearplate.
I'm pretty sure I've got less than $10 in 3 of them on my discs. And it bolts to the motor face.
Ken.

 

[Josh Rider]

Ken, that looks very simple and effective,
Thanks for the pics.

 

[kc custom]

Ken, that looks very simple and effective,
Thanks for the pics.

Its a piece of 1/4" thick angle with 2 flat ends welded on it. With a protractor or the machine
square its seconds to adjust. I usually make a half turn with the allen wrench and its either locked
in place or unlocked.
Ken.

 

[plas62]

Kevin - Thanks for uploading the file. Someone should offer this as a kit like the GIB. I think ir would be a real seller especially if they could revise it for drill and tapping to bolt together, for those of us who can't weld.

 

[Kevin Powers]

I threw one together today and as promised documented it.

First I tack the very outside sides of the motor plate, that allows you to square things up easier.

Then I weld the plate, alternating sides to fight distortion and weld the tabs that poke through to the bottom of the base plate. That allows the base plate to stay flat. We want tostadas not tacos.

Put the next pieces in. They only fit one way, if there's a gap between the motor plate and these tabs, spin them 180*.

Weld them through the bottom as well.

I then tack a nut inside of these tabs to allow for easier removal. Then it's time to mess with the table. It takes a little messing with to get it in the right spot so the table doesn't ascend past center of the wheel when tilted. It will get a big gap between the table and wheel when tilted, but that's one reason the whole thing slides. When getting the table tacked together, I recommend having the motor and wheel in place. Tack it and try it. Repeat until you like where it sits. And for all those that want this but can't weld, I'd be going against my career if I didn't tell you that most community colleges offer welding and it's a very cheap way to learn. It could be completely bolted together easily with angle iron pieces.

 

[Fred.Rowe]

I built this horizontal disc sander last year.