Does anyone make a 1/8" small wheel?

S

setlab

Joined
Apr 11, 2012
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134
Why?... Because I want one! :D

Now that question is out of the way, is it possible to make a wheel that small with some hardened steel? Or would such a small diamiter just cause too much stress on the belts?
 
I think this could actually be done if you used a solid carbide rod, and only used finer grit j-flex belts. I think most of the problem would be in the joint area.

You would have to be very careful with tension, and belt selection would probably determine success or failure. The bearings would also need to be quite good. Wider needle bearings or stacked traditional bearings on each side would add support to the ends and reduce flex in the center.
 
Why not use a file? Cause I don't wanna. It seems like it would be handy to have, and I have a need to add another wheel to my collection just collecting dust.

Wouldn't just the standard "small wheel KMG style bearings with some hardened tool steel that's been tempered to a springy quality work? I doubt it would withstand any serious bearing down on it, but just enough to cut with the abrasives?
 
The KMG bearings have an inside of 3/8.. I had a machinist friend make a brass bushing to go from 3/8 to 1/4 and it worked well. I suppose you could make a 1/8 inch axle but it would spin the bearings at a high rate of speed from a 4 inch drive wheel so you would have to go super slow.
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a 1/8 th chain saw rotary file attachment for a Dremel tool would be much easier to use but if you must, you must. Good luck and be sure to post a photo.
 
It can be done, how well it would work is the question. I think the best approach would be to reduce the belt width to 1/2" unless you need something wider. This would allow a wheel with a larger dia for the majority of the length with only a 1/2" wide section that's 1/8". It would be stronger and more rigid then a full 2" long 1/8" rod.
 
I'm with Wil D on this.

First - Why? A 1/8" carbide burr or other 1/8" tool in a flex shaft or Dremel will do the task far better than one mounted on a grinder.
Second - Use a 1" wide belt. A 1"X.125" roller will be much stronger than one 2" wide. It needs to be absolutely concentric with the bearings.
 
Okay, so we're talking about 1/16" radius which is a square edge broke over. If I remember right I've seen both Wayne Goddard, and Kyle Royer with set ups on their grinders that run the belt over the edge of a platen. Also years ago Wilton made small radius device for the Square Wheel Grinder that was air cushioned (and cooled). Just hook it to your air compressor.
 
Tru-Grit used to sell one called the "Rand-Dandy" It was made of steel. It had to be run at a slow rpm, and the splice bump made it difficult for me to use. It would probably work better with a Norax belt, but I forgot I had it until this post.
 
Another thing to keep in mind when dealing with radii this small, whether you try the wheel route or the edge of a platen...the thickness of your sanding belt will matter...

OTOH 1/8" burrs and Dremel bits are all about the same diameter, regardless of grit
 
We had an old home made bench grinder on the farm, that ran at modest speed with a stone or a/o wheel. I took off the grinding stone and replaced it with a worn down chop saw blade. This gave me a bench mounted powered alternative to chain saw files, and was great for getting into tight spots.
 
I stopped by a local machine shop today and asked them to give me a quote on what it would be to make a 1/8 and 3/16 wheel building it like LARRYZ10's wheel. Hopefully it'll be reasonable to make. I like the idea of not having much work in hand sanding by using my smaller grit belts with the small wheels.
 
Mahoney said:
Another thing to keep in mind when dealing with radii this small, whether you try the wheel route or the edge of a platen...the thickness of your sanding belt will matter...

OTOH 1/8" burrs and Dremel bits are all about the same diameter, regardless of grit
Click to expand...

Good point, wasn't thinking too much on that. I guess for what I want to use it for belt thickness isn't that important to me though.
 
setlab said:
I stopped by a local machine shop today and asked them to give me a quote on what it would be to make a 1/8 and 3/16 wheel building it like LARRYZ10's wheel. Hopefully it'll be reasonable to make. I like the idea of not having much work in hand sanding by using my smaller grit belts with the small wheels.
Click to expand...

this is a good project for some one with cnc lathe. if it worked out well, these could be made for us all.
 
I tried doing one like that, 1/8 is just too flexible to press in without bending up the rod.

1/4" is reasonable

3/16 is possible

somebody mentioned solid carbide rod, that's brittle not appropriate


I think that the 1/16" radius corner on a flat platen is the best way to go
 
Seems like an awful lot of fiddling around just to make a notch. :confused: If you have to do a bunch of them, just drill the 1/8" hole centered on your scribe line and cut or grind down to it. Then again at that point there's always waterjet to consider...
 
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