Does anyone still use sharpening stones ?

I had been using a Lansky for some time, but still have and use a Smith Tri-hone. That works great, and gives me good practice 'honing' :D my sharpening skills.

I finish off with a strop after...
 
I prefer arkansas stones for my carbon steel blades. For the higher alloys, like D2, S30V, VG-10, etc, I use diamond stones. I have tried arkansas stones on some of the higher alloy steels, but it is a real challenge.
 
That's only 30,000 grit. A strop loaded with .25 micron diamond paste would be needed to smooth out the coarse edge it would leave.
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hahahaha, no kidding!

BTW thombrogan, I've been looking into this some more and discovered something interesting.

(I'm not talking total edge geometery, just the final finishing.)

I think you can make 3 categories for final finish:

1. Stroping
2. 'Scary Sharp' system (SC paper over glass)
3. Stones

1: Stroping is going to create a convex edge. Even if you use stones for the most part that flex in the leather will roll it over a bit. Nothing wrong with that!!! That's what I do it and blades are crazy sharp and last that way.

3: Using Stones thru the complete process (like that 30,000 grit baby!) creates a different sort of edge.

(Now comes my revelation)

2: Using SC paper, over glass or attached to an edgepro is somewhere in between. I used to think you could use SC paper on glass and get the same effect as a stone. However! That paper has some give to it. It will not make as flat an edge as a stone will. It doesn't take much give when we are measuring in Microns!

I'm not knocking any of these methods all work and have their place. But using a superfine grit stone is going to make a different sort of edge than you're going to get with stopping or SC paper.

Does that make sense?

Steve
 
So you're saying that (considering the sharpener has the ability to keep the blade at a constant angle, unlike me, and that the stone is not dished out) a stone will give a flat edge, a strop will give a convex edge, and a paper/film over a hard backing will give an almost flat convex edge?

If that's what you're saying, although it will be difficult and painful, I can live with that.
 
Yup, I think we've connected.

I've looked in the microscope after going to a 2000 grit waterstone. The marks are all the way to the edge. Then after using a leather belt with green chrome only the very tiniest part of the edge is polished.

I don't think it's painful!! No one ever considered a barber's razor as anything less than sharp.

The Japanese woodworkers are the only ones I know of that get so anal about a completely flat edge. Those are the guys that buy the $700 stones.

The sharpest knives I've done are with 2000 grit stone and a stropped edge. I in theory I think that edge will last longer, but I'm not spending $700 to find out!

Steve
 
First an off-topic comment: I clicked through Sando's website link in his signature and looked at his hunting knives. The Bird and Trout model knife at the top of the page is maybe the most beautiful knife I've ever seen!

http://knives.mylamb.com/hunting.htm

Back to where the topic was drifting when last sighted...

I have tended to worry about the impact of loose abrasive slurry when finishing an edge on a water stone. It seemed to me that there would be some tendency for the grit to get clumped and piled in spots and microscopically ding the edge. Sharpening "experts" have used this as a reason to recommend against using oil on hones. If there was any truth to that warning it would somewhat be true for a water stone. I believe that water stones are somewhat better off since they use an extremely uniform grit, but still I don't like to see a lot of slurry build up at the finishing stage.

When I am finishing a superfine edge I like to continuously clear my hone surface. One of the nice intrinsic features of a V-rod honing system (like a Sharpmaker) is that debris can fall off of the near-vertical rod surfaces as you work. When I do my last pass on my extra-fine diamond bench hone I like to work under running tap water above the kitchen sink. I sometimes do the same for the last few strokes on my 6000 grit water stone. Yes, it slows down the surface renewal process on the water stone, but it doesn't make much difference for a few finishing strokes.
 
Jeff!! Your comment is embarrassing enough, but coming from you I'm totally red faced!!:o :o Don't really know what to say, other than Thanks!

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Re the stones.

I only have one 'true' waterstone. As you say it's the slurry kind.

In contrast the Shapton stones are not designed to work with a slurry. They are like an oil stone in that sense. But they are built to use water. I use lots of water on there after a 5 minute soak. The 'dust' just floats away. The fine grit stones stay very flat.

Shapton's really are in a class by themselves.

Steve
 
Art338WM,

Welcome to the Forums!

Please let me apologize. My pa-in-law gave me a Norton Coarse/Medium India combo stone. He probably got in Lawrence, MA. I don't know the best place to get 'em.
 
I have Arkansas stones and water stones. I use ceramic rods and the like for touch-up only, the serious sharpening is done on stones.
 
I sharpen my knives freehand using norton stones, waterstones, and DMT diamond hones depending on the blade steel. Maintaining the edge with EZE-lap diamond steel for larger knives and sharpmaker 204 for smaller ones. Like others have posted I just enjoy working on the stones more. Probably the reason with I've resisted getting the edge-pro for so long. Knives may get sharper but just would not be as satisfying I think.
 
Originally posted by Jeff Clark
First an off-topic comment: I clicked through Sando's website link in his signature and looked at his hunting knives. The Bird and Trout model knife at the top of the page is maybe the most beautiful knife I've ever seen!

http://knives.mylamb.com/hunting.htm
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Absolutely. That pair of "Hunters" are stunning as well but it could be cause they're backdropped by those ugly-assed boots that look old enough to vote :)


bill
 
smegs, You got something against old boots?

hahahaha

You're right I did put those beater on there to contrast the new blades.

Glad you like the knives. My designs are admittedly a little off the path. Being a fairly new maker I'm still finding my way, so the encouragement is quite welcome.

Steve

PS You're right, the boots have just reached voting age. I'm think I'll get them registered.
 
Originally posted by Sando
My designs are admittedly a little off the path.
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Well, in your case, a little off must mean a lot right. Hopefully one of those beautys will wend it's way down my path soon. :)

I like using a ceramic rod as a steel. I'm gonna have to check out those shapton stones.
 
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