Does D2 make a good chopper ?

C

carbonsteelfan

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I was recently deciding on taking my Jimmy Lile First Blood survival knife ( in D2 tool steel) on a six week camping hunting and fishing trip. I may have to use the knife as a chopper for wood and stuff. I was wondering if any one else uses D2 in knives for chopping. Could you please enlighten me on how it performs ? Is D2 tough enough for chopping; splitting and batoning wood ? Or will it chip like many say D2 will ? A lot of people say that D2 lacks tough ness bit l want expert opinions. I know they are very good at edge holding ( l currently EDC a Bob Dozier large folding hunter in D2). But how are they in terms of toughness? Is it more tough than 154CM ?
 
D2 is a good tool steel, i've never personally had any trouble with one chipping. The few that I have seen chipped were pretty thin at the edge and might have chipped in almost any steel. You should have no troubles with your Lile they have a good heat treat and design.
 
Some years back I got to do a lot of chopping of both green and well dried logs with a large bowie style knife (D2) made by Uwe Hoffman in Canada, and had absolutely no problems with the edge. That being said the performance of any knife depends on the skill of the maker, blade geometry and heat treat, no matter what the steel is. John
 
I wouldn't be afraid to use D2 as a chopper. Chopped down this 8 in tree with BM 275 folder. No chipping and still had a descent cutting edge after (300-400 whacks?). I've had other steels chip but not D2 and use D2 frequently. It's tough but not as tough as some other steels. Somebody will come along with more knowledge than what i about it though.
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I have a Viper Carnera, which is a 9,5" chopper in D2, and it has held up fine so far. I chopped through some really tough,thick particle board recently and it didn't even dull much.

My Boker Vox Rold is another great knife in D2 steel. I think D2 is tougher than it gets credit for. From reading the interwebs, you'd think D2 will crumble to dust if you look at it too hard. :rolleyes: D2 has been around for a long time for a reason, its a very good steel.

It is not a "baton cinder blocks" or "cut cars in half" steel, true. But with a good HT, it definitely won't break or chip when working wood, unless you grind the bevel to acute. I wouldn't go below 20° per side for outdoor use.

Check out nutnfancy's review of the Vox Rold, he gives it a nice workout in the cold. Even if you can't stand the guy, that video is quite good.

[video=youtube_share;5oMvFTiu8Bs]http://youtu.be/5oMvFTiu8Bs[/video]
 
carbonsteelfan said:
I was recently deciding on taking my Jimmy Lile First Blood survival knife ( in D2 tool steel) on a six week camping hunting and fishing trip. I may have to use the knife as a chopper for wood and stuff. I was wondering if any one else uses D2 in knives for chopping. Could you please enlighten me on how it performs ? Is D2 tough enough for chopping; splitting and batoning wood ? Or will it chip like many say D2 will ? A lot of people say that D2 lacks tough ness bit l want expert opinions. I know they are very good at edge holding ( l currently EDC a Bob Dozier large folding hunter in D2). But how are they in terms of toughness? Is it more tough than 154CM ?
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Being you're a fan of Bob Dozier's work, let me add this:

When Bob makes big knives designed for tough tasks like chopping he prefers A2 over his excellent D2.


Just saying.




Big Mike
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with using a D2 knife as a chopper...

I DO think there is a problem with using a sawback hollow handle knife as a chopper though!
1. Those saw teeth weaken the blade overall so it's not going to be as strong as a full thickness blade.
2. The hollow handle to blade interface is another problematic potential "weak spot".
3. The Lile Rambo knives are so collectible... I'd hate to see it damaged/destroyed - it's not like you can send it in for repair!

I wouldn't hesitate to USE the knife, but I would hesitate to use it on something that could potentially damage it! I might recommend an ESEE or a Becker for chopping and the Lile for the collection or lighter use, but that's just me :D
 
Properly made hollow handle knives, which the Lile is are not weak the the blade handle joint. As for saw teeth making the blade weaker, well I've chopped battoned and on occasion sawed with them with no ill affects at all. They are a valuable item but I'd use it, I did when I had a Lile and enjoyed it otherwise why have it.
 
Although there are many fine knives made with D2 and plenty of examples of people using the knives for chopping without damage, if you are asking about the properties of the steel in general terms, then no, it might not be your best choice for this application. If you use it for chopping you might experience chipping or other damage with a higher probability than with some other tool. There are many steels which are much tougher and better suited to chopping. D2 is great for long edge holding in many other kinds of cutting tasks. If you are just thinking you might do a bit of light chopping you could probably use this knife, but it's really not the best tool for the job.
 
cricketdave said:
Properly made hollow handle knives, which the Lile is are not weak the the blade handle joint. As for saw teeth making the blade weaker, well I've chopped battoned and on occasion sawed with them with no ill affects at all. They are a valuable item but I'd use it, I did when I had a Lile and enjoyed it otherwise why have it.
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I didn't say the saw teeth were WEAK... I said they aren't as strong a solid, straight piece of steel - this is just physics. I also wasn't trying to say the hollow handle/blade interface was "weak" either... It just isn't as strong as a solid, full tang knife which again also basically amounts to physics...

I agree with you that there isn't much point in having stuff if you aren't going to use it, but I wouldn't be using something that's (somewhat) irreplaceable in a way that might increase the risk of breaking it, like batoning or chopping could. The forums are full of pics of quality, broken knives from these kinds of activities using knives that don't have sawbacks and hollow handles! It's the OP's knife and I think he should use it whatever way makes him happy- I was just pointing out potential risks so he could make an informed decision! :)
 
I can't thank you guys enough for the great replies. So l guess l shouldn't worry about using D2 for wood chopping and the like. It is very sad how some people can exaggerate and say that D2 is a " Runt in terms of tough ness " . Yeah l actually met an idiot who said that. I don't abuse my knives and l take pride in saying that l have never let any of my knives ( even the 5160 ones ) rust. I guess l will use it for chopping confidently.
I see that a lot of you guys are worried about me potentially damaging a collectors piece. Don't be. I have three of them.:) l must also tell you guys this
Don't under estimate hollow handle knives. I don't blame you. I used to hate them too. Then my sisters fiance gifted me a 440c Robert Parrish Hollow handle 8 inch combat survivor and the knife was built like a tank. Of course now l use the Lile because l like D2 more in terms of edge retention and ease of sharpening ( provided you use an EZE Lap DT stone )
 

It is less tough than many other steels. But there are many variables. If the knife is designed for chopping, it can chop.
You can't use a chart like this to say "D2 is unsuitable for chopping."
 
mtangent said:

It is less tough than many other steels. But there are many variables. If the knife is designed for chopping, it can chop.
You can't use a chart like this to say "D2 is unsuitable for chopping."
Click to expand...

I do not think that chart for comparison. D2 being a tool steel and the rest being stainless. However, as you can see from the chart, no matter what steel you get, there is always a compromise. A lot has to do with heat treat. I don't know what the source of this chart is, but in my experience D2 has performed far greater than S30V. Its all subjective. Talk to Ankerson about steel comparisons--he knows his (insert expletive here).
 
K.O.D. said:
I do not think that chart for comparison. D2 being a tool steel and the rest being stainless. However, as you can see from the chart, no matter what steel you get, there is always a compromise. A lot has to do with heat treat. I don't know what the source of this chart is, but in my experience D2 has performed far greater than S30V. Its all subjective. Talk to Ankerson about steel comparisons--he knows his (insert expletive here).
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I think these charts are too simplistic. But I've never found a comprehensive chart.
Anyway, the basic point is, a knife is not just a piece of steel.

Out of interest, KOD, if the "toughness" test is the same for each subject, why shouldn't tool steel be compared to SS?
 
As a metallurgist I find that using tables as absolutes is not the best thing. Each steel has it's own properties and that's dependent on HT and type of edge . D2 BTW is sometimes called semi-stainless. It also has large carbides which produce a certain type of edge Some prefer that , some don't . My EDC test is to carry a folder for one year and cut what ever needs to be cut .Slow but far better than a quick test.
 
mtangent said:
I think these charts are too simplistic. But I've never found a comprehensive chart.
Anyway, the basic point is, a knife is not just a piece of steel.

Out of interest, KOD, if the "toughness" test is the same for each subject, why shouldn't tool steel be compared to SS?
Click to expand...

Well, I was just thinking since he was looking at a tool steel in the first place, it would be reasonable to assume he'd be interested in other tool steels. When I look at "choppers" I usually see them with either a tool steel or carbon steel. Particularly D2, O1, CPM-3v and 1095. Those steels are particularly valuable as they are high in impact resistance/toughness. The trade off of course is in edge retention and corrosion resistance.
 
I would not choose D2 for a chopper, but if it's what you have, it should work. I'd be careful about rough cutting low to the ground where you might hit some hidden stuff that could damage it.
 
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