Does HI do custom Kukris?

the deal of the day blades, if you watch them
the ones that have 3 rivets down the wood handle and have an
obvious bit of steel at the end are pretty much going to be "full Tang"
the non full tang often show no attachment method from the outside at all

bear in mind full tang means full feedback to the user as well, the Kukri blades have
traditionally used the half tang to offer some shock absorbing in the handles for the users comfort
ask anybody who uses a western machete all day, and they will tell you that you feel it in the bones later
 
the deal of the day blades, if you watch them
the ones that have 3 rivets down the wood handle and have an
obvious bit of steel at the end are pretty much going to be "full Tang"
the non full tang often show no attachment method from the outside at all

bear in mind full tang means full feedback to the user as well, the Kukri blades have
traditionally used the half tang to offer some shock absorbing in the handles for the users comfort
ask anybody who uses a western machete all day, and they will tell you that you feel it in the bones later

I own partial tangs, rat tail tangs, and full tang HI kukris.

I prefer the rat tail or partial tangs over the full tangs.

The partial tangs tend to have the best feel and best balance. The rat tail tang is the most often seen tang and produces excellent balance without the "frailty" of a partial tang.

The full tangs are the strongest, but the balance isn't "right" unless you are talking about a ASTK which offers a tapered (thickness wise) full tang. I find the ASTK's balance almost like the rat tail tangs.

Full tangs are nice, but aren't really needed on a kukri. The "rat tail" or what I like to call the "tree stump" tang of a standard HI blade will last several lifetimes if the horn/wood is taken care of with oils or other rehydrating substances.

I guess its up to personal opinion but the whole "full tang" thing has been played out. A lot of cheaper companies like to produce full tang blades as a selling point even though much of the steels used to make these "full tang survival knives" are garbage stainless steel. Full tang is just a marketing ploy used my many makers.

HI's tree stump tang is stronger than most "full tang" survival or machete's knives being produced by other makers.
 
GB,

I completely respect that, and I wish in this instance that I could opt for a rat-tail. The full tang is quite frankly to accomodate my knowledge and abilities with attaching slabs for the handle. If I felt confident I could handle a rat-tail with my tools and talents I would.
 
GB,

I completely respect that, and I wish in this instance that I could opt for a rat-tail. The full tang is quite frankly to accomodate my knowledge and abilities with attaching slabs for the handle. If I felt confident I could handle a rat-tail with my tools and talents I would.

That indeed makes a lot of sense.
 
Agreed. Several have said rehandling a rat tail is easier than a full tang but I don't fully swallow that.

They be a challenge in their own special way.
 
GB,

I completely respect that, and I wish in this instance that I could opt for a rat-tail. The full tang is quite frankly to accomodate my knowledge and abilities with attaching slabs for the handle. If I felt confident I could handle a rat-tail with my tools and talents I would.

You might be surprised at how easy it is to make a new rat tail tang handle versus a chirruwa slab style. I'd rather replace a rat tang anyday.

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Aint a khuk but same thing:D

Drill or burn one hole through the middle carve out the shape slide it on glue it and peen the keeper. For slabs, carve out the shape, split the wood in halves, drill in three places, carefully pin without splitting and start all over again if you screw up. Distal taper on a Chirruwa is not flat. Not only is it tapered the length of the knife it is also tapered the width of the handle. Its a compound plane and if you break it in the field you need more tools to repair it than you would if it was a stump of wood only needing a hole burned through it and a piece of rock to peen it. You are more likely to bust the scales off than you are loose the knife because of a failed rat tail.
 
Kamidog is correct. Much easier to replace a standard handle than to replace chiruwa handle slabs.
 
Imagine the handle falls off and you need to use your blade right right now. No time to make new handles. Which one will be more "comfortable"? Stick tang or full width tang? :D

HI is doing some magic. :cool:
Both style of tangs have their balance points at the same distance from the guard. :eek:How does this work with a heavier full width tang? Probably by increasing the thickness / weight on the other side of the guard, the Blade.
So while a full width tang Kuk is overall probably heavier than a stick tang Kukri they are still balanced the same and added weight per length is a plus for hard woods. Probably no coincidence that the light KVLUK which excels at light brush has a stick tang.
Now the heavy ASTK for hard woods would be hard to picture with a lighter stick tang handle. Way to forward heavy then. It's just perfect with full width tang.


Kami magic was also applied at the "Himalayan Razor" Sher Attitude. That's a Kukri in clever disguise but more about that later in a review when I get to upload a few pics.
 
I have nothing against a chiruwa handle if its done right. I have a 20" AK by Lachhu and a 20" CAK by Bhakta that feel almost identical in heavy chopping ergonomics. Both are awesome blades and I have many hours on each blade now.

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Since they are in the same class of choppers I thought id see which I liked best then sell the CAK. Well Bhakta is a master at his trade and his CAK's are done right. Both blades get to stay because I cant decide which I like better. The CAK has my total respect but not because I think its stronger than the rat tail but because it is has been designed to perform as well as the rat tail and it does. If you just have to have a full tang Chiruwa then the HI kamis know how to do it. Feel confident with your choice but you do have to understand that working with natural materials there is always the rare possibility of a natural structural defect that you may want to correct in the field versus taking it home to repair it. Just something to consider.
 
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