**Does Renaissance Wax prevent rust & corrosion on bead blast finishes?**

Yes. It does a great job. My personal preference is to clean the blade with Flitz, then put on a coat of Rennassaince wax.
 
I agree with lifter.

One trick I use to get the excess wax off is to put the knife in my trunk on a warm day so it will soften (liquify) a little. It then can be wiped off with a soft cloth to keep the finish even without streaks.

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" The real art of living is to keep alive the longing in human beings to become greater versions of themselves." Laurens Van der Post in memory of James Mattis
 
Speaking of protectants that have a wax component, has anyone tried Boeshield T-9? It was developed in conjunction with Boing to protect jet parts. Just wondering.

DPD
 
Where is Renaissance Wax sold on the internet? Does it leave buildup and residue? How many times do you apply it on a knife that is stored in a year?
 
You can get Boeshield T-9 at a bicycle shop (they use to to protect bike chains). There are also some other varriations. Right now I use Krytech. It's a parafin wax in a liquid solution, coat the metal and in a few minutes the solution dries and you have a nice even coat of parafin wax. These are marketed for bicycles but parafin wax makes a nice protectant for anything metal.
 
You can also get Boeing T-9 from Brownell's. It attracts dirt like mad, though. Corrosion X is much better, and a far better lubricant as well with a coefficiant of friction half that of Teflon-based lubes like Break Free CLP. www.corrosionx.com www.brownells.com
 
Polishing your blade is a good idea...Flitz or Simichrome work well.

If you really want to ensure the little pores of the bead blast are free of stuff, after Flitzing, wipe down, or better, spray down, bathe your blade with solvent, then wipe thoroughly with a clean paper towel or lint free rag. Acetone, MEK (paint section at Home Depot), or Brake Cleaner from autoparts store for example... that should help either dissolve finger oils, sap, other sticky stuff, or flush out any water hiding in the cracks.

If you use WD-40 to "Water Displace", then go back with solvent to get that stuff out too, then apply Renaissance Wax.

Renaissance is expensive... $20 for a 2" by 3" tall round tub, 200ml = 7oz tub. You don't have to use much.

Wax isn't exactly durable under use, but works great for storage IF you solvent clean up front.

Just don't dribble the solvent on mammoth or walrus ivories, or wood, you'll strip out the natural or mineral oil that the maker soaked into the handle ...they'll crack.

One reputable maker told me he uses Turtle Wax. The automotive guys sure try to make "non yellowing" wax also, and while I haven't tried auto wax since I have a ready stash of Renaissance, it sure as hell is a lot cheaper.

Renaissance claim to fame is that the English developed it for preserving museum pieces... had to be totally white, totally clear, no yellowing, thin coat.

[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 05-10-2001).]
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by rdangerer:
Renaissance is expensive... $20 for a 2" by 3" tall round tub, 200ml = 7oz tub. You don't have to use much.
</font>
Click to expand...

I've been using one of those 2"x3" tins for over 2 years now, and I imagine it will last me into next spring/summer. Expensive is a relative term.

As I said, I've been using Ren Wax for over 2 years, on stainless, carbon steels, and damascus. My knives are kept in the open, on a table in my office. Ren Wax absolutely protects against rust. Additionally, with Chicago's humidity swings, my woods and ivories have benefitted greatly from Ren Wax's protection. No drying or cracking, and checking is minimal.

As regards the cleaning/polishing, my non-damascus knives get MAAS silver polish 2-3 times per year as needed.
 
Try looking here for Renaissance Wax.

Make sure that you click on the "product description" links that are highlighted in red. Very good detailed information supplied.

--The Raptor--
 
I've been using my can of Rennassaince wax for about 6 years and it's only half empty. Not too expensive in the long run.

Dave
 
Thanks for the info on the Boeshield and alternatives. One prominent knifemaker told me that neutral Kiwi shoe polish also works well, but I haven't tested the suggestion.

DPD
 
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