Does someone make a grinding jig?

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Another vote for the bubble jig. And it can be used on a 1x30, just not with the file guide Fred sends. The bubble jig can be stuck directly to the blade for that matter.
 
amc5 said:
Hope this is the right place for this. Working on my first knife. I have ran across many issues that I have tried to fix. Main issue so far, getting an actual decent looking bevel/grind on the blade. I made my own jig. I am using a 1x30 cheapo belt sander from Harbor Freight (which may be the issue) and just doesn't seem to be working. However, it could be me. The top line of bevel doesn't get straight across. Kind of goes up and down. The blade itself also doesn't look to smooth. Looks as if i put the blade against the belt at 4 or 5 different positions. I know that may be hard to picture.

I think it may be my jig. I cannot do it by hand yet. Current jig is just a piece of metal shaped like an "L" with a few bolts in the rear to tilt it back or forward. Just been attached the blade on the front with a vise type tool. Maybe it's because the knife may not be in the right spot on the front of jig?

Thanks for your help.
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A buddy of mine Bruce Bump MS. makes the best File Jig I know of. I have two of these because I make my knives in batches.

Go here http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?24339-FILE-GUIDE-and-how-to-use-it

Check out the Bruce Bump file guides. Bruce is a master Smith and a very accomplished Knife maker too!

Laurence
 
A file guide with carbide faces, like Bruce Bump makes, is a great tool for getting even plunges and tang shoulders. But the bevels on a blade should be ground by hand. Using Fred's bubble jig is a good way to learn to grind by hand. No fixed jig is going to do it for you with any success. It takes practice and effort. If you can't get it right on your 1X30 grinder, then only use that for profiling and roughing in the bevels. Go to files and a hard block with sandpaper to finish the bevels. A shoulder jig for filing the plunges will help, but getting the main bevels dead flat and even is just time and paying attention.
 
There is a picture on the thread I linked to of the Bruce Bump file guide or another of Bruce's concerning his file guide that shows someone using a bubble jig on one of his carbide lined file jigs. I prefer the Bump file jig because it has two screws on it so you get even pressure across the steel blank.

The only thing that is really going to teach you to grind well is doing it again & again. A 2 x 72" variable or adjustable speed grinder along with ceramic belts sure helps a lot too.

Bladsmth's mention of using files and a hard sanding block is correct. I started knifemaking with hand files, sanding blocks and a lot of sand paper.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
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