Does the RC blade really need to be reprofil ?

Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
403
What do you recommand with the RC5,3,Izula..

Do most of you reprofil your edge on your RC ? If so, i really need to find a pro to do it, or buy the tool to make it myself.. im not well equipped for sharpening knives..
 
i think my izula cuts fine, if you want it to be insane then reprofile it, but out of the box i think it is okay.
 
No need IMO, they are plenty sharp for almost anything. Reprofile if you want scalpel-like performance, but if you want scalpel-like performance, you should probably look for a different type of knife altogether.
 
No one really "needs" to reprofile their RC blade, but I did reprofile mine. To each his own and I am sure pleased with mine...now.
 
Peoples perception of sharp amazes me, what most here would consider sharp I see as dull. Factory edges are just something to start a knifes life, a properly sharpened edge is like putting a turbo charger on your car. To have scalpel like performance with any blade is not hard you just have to do it right. A DMT aligner would probably be a good choice to start unless you want to freehand.





If you were in the states I'd say send'em to me.
 
the factory edge on most knives works for the most part, but I feel i can get much better performance by re-profiling. with the exception or bark river all my production knives have needed to be reprofiled to get full preformance out of the blade.
 
I've never had a factory edge i didnt like....problem is they don't last at all. I usually wind up taking my blades down. I suggest getting a set of stones and learning how to use them on cheap knives.
 
Peoples perception of sharp amazes me, what most here would consider sharp I see as dull. Factory edges are just something to start a knifes life, a properly sharpened edge is like putting a turbo charger on your car. To have scalpel like performance with any blade is not hard you just have to do it right. A DMT aligner would probably be a good choice to start unless you want to freehand.





If you were in the states I'd say send'em to me.



Good post. +4







It is an issue of desire determining preference, and understanding determining desires. If you aren’t familiarized enough with the characterizes of metal and sharpening your own blade, then jumping right to a “re-profiling” (any sharpening you do is changing it from its originally received state.) But to change the angle is going to be ahead of your base and ultimately somewhat unnecessary at this point. Allow your needs to determine your course in life and so the same with the care of your blade.
It does not benefit everyone to re-profile the angle of grind but for some it can make a world of difference.
 
Great info.. I don't really care about reprofiling but im really interested in getting my hand on a great sharpening system|technique for my RAT knives.

On my next wilderness expedition, i'll carry at least 2 RAT and 1 golok.. and I think that my RC5 is cutting.. yes.. but not that much (i know its awesome possibilities but the blade need a lil work). I not absolutly talking about scapel grade sharpening but something really sharp in required for what I do.

I'll (of course) keep reading this forum for sharpening advice but so far, knifenut1013 suggested a DMT aligner. I was told that the super cheap way (that cant be good) was at least useing a lansky or gerber pocket sharpener.. better than nothing situation i guess.
 
The factory Izula edge comes very sharp. It's just not a real acute angle for taking paper thin slices out of an onion for example. Just so you know how sharp they come, our secretary is headed to urgent care for stitches right now due to a new Izula edge. Nasty cut! (Update, 5 stitches and a note from the Doc. to get out of work). I guess she learned how not to un-sheath a knife the hard way. BTW systems are fine but you don't need any system, just sharpen at a different angle until you achieve the desired edge.
 
Last edited:
BTW systems are fine but you don't need any system, just sharpen at a different angle until you achieve the desired edge.


I agree completely, I’m glad I've learned to sharpen with nothing more than a stone, knife, advice and my own hands. I have along the way acquired strops and various grade stones to integrate into my own sharpening system. I also have a set of varying grit automotive sandpaper for my convexed edges. If you would prefer buying a complete set there are many options such as DMT, SpydercoSharpMaker, and Arkansas Oil Stones to name just a few.

After thought- And in regaurd to angle, I rarely keep track of a specific number, as hoopster stated "just sharpen at a different angle until you achieve the desired edge" It is by feel for me.
 
DMT aligner[/B]. I was told that the super cheap way (that cant be good) was at least useing a lansky or gerber pocket sharpener.. better than nothing situation i guess.

If you sharpen with bench stones, the DMT Aligner would be a good buy for around $10 and you can reprofile/sharpen your blade to a consistent angle using most any stone. I reprofiled an RC-5 using a KME Sharpener to set the new angle, then finished with bench stones. The rc-5 you have does have awesome possibilities and you can get it there easier than you think.
 
Thank you once again for the info..

I too believe (hope so) it can be achieved with a simple "system" (way to do it). Reminder, i just started researching on knife sharpening so keep the info/advices coming guys :)

I bought a double sided stone last week from Sail Baron in Canada, I threw away the packaging but it was the kind of packaging that are sold at the Canadian Tire survival/camping gear section.. i'll try to get the specific numbers..

do you think its something that could be use on my precious RAT RC5 ?
dscn0214s.jpg

dscn0216c.jpg

dscn0219.jpg
 
I typically put a more acute bevel on every knife I buy.

I freehand sharpen on oil stones or DMT diamond, depending on the steel (carbon steel - oil stones, D2 & Stainless Steels - Diamond). I finish all edges by stropping to a mirror finish.

Since I freehand sharpen. I tend to put the same angle on all my blades due to muscle memory. They are also easy to resharpen by me, due to the muscle memory.

Every RAT Knife I have bought has been "shaving sharp" from the factory. For my uses, I still put a more acute bevel on them, and get that mirror edge.
 
We have a Maintenance, Tinkering, & Embellishment forum here for sharpening questions. You can browse there also.

Don't begin learning to sharpen on a good knife. It takes time and practice, something the experts here have gone through, but may have forgotten. "Feel" is a matter of experience, not just rubbing a blade on a benchstone.

Until you know what you're doing, you can do more damage than sharpening with a pocket sharpener. Once you know what sharpening is about, you can use almost anything.

Read up on the Sharpmaker and on stropping, also.
 
Will do.. i knew there are a tones of thread about sharpening, its not a chore for me, its a plesure to get proper knowledge..

and for practice, i got plenty of old knife .. and old machete.. i'll look into it and thank to everyone for your input, appreciated :thumbup:
 
ESEE knives even though they have a thick edge cut as good as just about any knife I have ever bought. They all come shaving sharp and IMO only need a light stropping to keep them that way. They are definately great user knives.
 
i was reading the post of my friend here and people were talking about the Spyderco sharpmaker.. lets say i was in a rush for a sharp edge without getting a degree in sharpening or opening my own sharpening store.. would the spyderco sharpmaker make a good sharpening device for begginer ?
 
Back
Top