Does the sheath on the Buck 110 force the blade into the backspacer?

LimpCroissant said:
They come with a little rougher finish. I took a little sand paper to them to make them shine more and develop a shinier patina.
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Thanks for the rec! Dang, didn't know Flytanium went that low, 70 bucks for PM2 scales! The copper I have on mine is from Spyderco, though 😁 I was wondering how to take the patina off if I wanted to get the initial shine back, I like the patina but may wanna make it shine again. Sand paper, hmm? I wonder if scotchbrite like material, scouring pads would work, or if I would need a chemical.
 
Hashishiin said:
Thanks for the rec! Dang, didn't know Flytanium went that low, 70 bucks for PM2 scales! The copper I have on mine is from Spyderco, though 😁 I was wondering how to take the patina off if I wanted to get the initial shine back, I like the patina but may wanna make it shine again. Sand paper, hmm? I wonder if scotchbrite like material, scouring pads would work, or if I would need a chemical
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Wet and dry sandpaper or a scotchbrite pad would work. I used sand paper on a hard backing because I wanted just the flats shiny and the edges the dull stock color. Scotchbrite works good too but it tends to make the edges brighter than the flats, which is a cool look too.
 
This is what it looked like when I first sanded it a couple months ago.

VXPY7LU.jpg
 
I carry a 110 and 112 and the sheaths don't push the blade into the back spring or spacer. On a leather sheath you can soften it up by scrunching it in your hand like a hand exerciser.

But if you have a 110 with a tight spring it is possible to slam the blade shut and cause the tip of the blade to contact the rear back spacer.
I've slightly damaged the edge , near the tip on my 110 , by accidently slamming the blade closed. The force was enough to make the blade over travel.

Also there's an exposed rivet ( back of the snap) inside the leather sheaths that will gouge the brass , so cover it with a piece of felt.
I don't know why Buck doesn't do this, but I've learned the hard way.
 
When I inherited my grandpa old "whittlin'" knives ( a couple of tree brand stockmans) they had an oil soaked toothpick lodged under the blade. No rust but plenty of patina! No lint either, guess twenty years in a box kept them clean and dry. Might be different if carried in an overall pocket daily. I never thought about backspace contact dulling blade but maybe that was the reason. They looked well used and had been sharpened many times. I think I posted in the traditional forum, but likely no pics. That would have been a hot minute ago.
 
Btw, with regard to the stop pin inside Tri-Ad knives that keeps the edge off the spacer and spring: I have a few A.G. Russell traditional styled back locks (Chinese made line) from several years ago that have this feature too, though they are otherwise traditional back locks. This is a really nice feature that I wish was included in more back locks. 👍

edit: Here's one of the Russell's. Second pic you can see the pin.
https://imgur.com/4MtdCVC
https://imgur.com/HPDNJvL
 
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CVamberbonehead said:
It only happens when you let the blade fall into the handle at full force. It doesn't happen on all knives. People call it blade rap.
Even if using the sheath pushed the blade into the backspring, it wouldn't do much honestly. The leather or nylon of a sheath has more "give" in it than the metal of the knife does, so even if it pushed the blade in it wouldn't be that hard. You are worrying over nothing honestly, it is really no big deal. There are roughly 1 gazillion Buck 110s out there in the world riding in sheaths every day and they last for years and years with no ill effects. The problem would solve itself in a couple of sharpenings (as you remove metal from the blade) anyway if there was a problem. Its all good, just carry your knife and enjoy! You'll be set for life with a Buck 110 and a Leatherman! :)
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That's alot of legit advice. Though I think CV may have underestimated. I'd heard it was getting close to the two gazillion mark! That's partly because, unless you're just trying to be abusive and destroy them, a Buck 110 usually outlasts it's first owner. Add to that a good full size Leatherman, like a Wave or a Rebar, and you really are set.
eveled said:
OP. No the 110 sheath doesn’t push the blade into the spring.

All those planning to use a piece of leather inside a knife that hits. I’d use something different leather absorbs moisture and even dry it causes corrosion.
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Good point. I didn't think about that until you mentioned it, but I agree. One hot sweaty day and just a little sweat soaked in the leather in your knife, and it could really ruin your knife. Not all at once obviously, but I'd still rather not risk it.
 
sharpguytoo said:
When I inherited my grandpa old "whittlin'" knives ( a couple of tree brand stockmans) they had an oil soaked toothpick lodged under the blade. No rust but plenty of patina! No lint either, guess twenty years in a box kept them clean and dry. Might be different if carried in an overall pocket daily. I never thought about backspace contact dulling blade but maybe that was the reason. They looked well used and had been sharpened many times. I think I posted in the traditional forum, but likely no pics. That would have been a hot minute ago.
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Thanks for the tip! That seems way better than leather. Maybe canvas would also be something to put in the back of a Higonokami. Love those Boker (tree) slipjoints in carbon steel, my girlfriend sent me some pics of some that she got working at Goodwill! But she had to sent most (And a 70s era Wenger SAK) to corp like with all knives, I told her to keep the old Barlow she found as an office knife to compliment the Sage 5 and Higonokami I gave her 😁
Yo I love finding "Grandpa's Knives" though, my only good family is in Romania so none for me to discover, but my girlfriend's grandpa... Oh man, he used to be an outlaw biker! We found his old biker vest (I have a patched and studded vest too, but his is way more NSFW than mine!) .25, his SAK (which I neeed to send into Victorinox, he got gunk UNDER all the lockbars, can't clean it! Found a Frost doctor knife, and a Colt skinner, and a cheap modern Elk Ridge skinner but it's full tang and shaped like a Sharpfinger.
 
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