Dollar store stainless liners???

[jwesthurl]

Hey everybody, I'm in the process of sloooooowly building my first slipjoint and I ran across these Chinese stainless cake spatulas at the dollar store and they are the perfect size and thickness for liners.

Now, obviously I have no idea what type of stainless they are and I figured there has to be some type of heat treat on them since they are flexible and springy.
The only other thing I know about them is that they are magnetic. Is there any way to anneal them? Spot anneal with a torch where I want to drill? I know these probably aren't ideal but I had to give them a try for a buck.

Sent from my 0PM92 using Tapatalk

 

[Bill DeShivs]

You shouldn't need to anneal them.

 

[milkbaby]

Thanks for the tip, now I'm headed to the dollar store ASAP!

 

[jwesthurl]

You shouldn't need to anneal them.

Thanks Bill. I'll give it a try. I sawed through one with with a hacksaw and it seemed "chippy"- I guess that's the best way to describe it. I'll try drilling it next.

Thanks for the tip, now I'm headed to the dollar store ASAP!

No problem! If it helps, the store was a Dollar Tree.

Sent from my 0PM92 using Tapatalk

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Any thin metal will cut "chippy" with a hacksaw, because the saw teeth are too coarse for the thin material.

 

[jwesthurl]

Any thin metal will cut "chippy" with a hacksaw, because the saw teeth are too coarse for the thin material.

Makes sense, thanks again!

Sent from my 0PM92 using Tapatalk

 

[S.Alexander]

I'd imagine that it's a 300 series stainless. High corrosion resistance but gummy when you grind it.

 

[Busto]

The 400 series stainless is magnetic 300 series should not be magnetic.

 

[KnuckleDownKnives]

Thanks Bill. I'll give it a try. I sawed through one with with a hacksaw and it seemed "chippy"- I guess that's the best way to describe it. I'll try drilling it next.

After your cut is started you can decrease the angle of your blade so you aren't cutting 90* to the material. This will make more of the blade come in contact with more metal and possibly give you a smother cut since you are using a hacksaw. I do this on my bandsaw sometimes when cutting this stock. I cut some small wedges of wood to raise the back off the material I'm cutting to reduce blade chatter and just cut through the wedge at the same time, plus it will help prolong the life of your blade. Sometimes cutting this stock where the blade chatters a lot you can run the risk of breaking teeth off the blade, I've even had bandsaw blades break.

 

[jwesthurl]

After your cut is started you can decrease the angle of your blade so you aren't cutting 90* to the material. This will make more of the blade come in contact with more metal and possibly give you a smother cut since you are using a hacksaw. I do this on my bandsaw sometimes when cutting this stock. I cut some small wedges of wood to raise the back off the material I'm cutting to reduce blade chatter and just cut through the wedge at the same time, plus it will help prolong the life of your blade. Sometimes cutting this stock where the blade chatters a lot you can run the risk of breaking teeth off the blade, I've even had bandsaw blades break.

Nice tip. I use a portaband but I didn't want to break a blade trying to cut the handle off. I'll try the wedges when I cut out the profiles. Thanks!

Sent from my 0PM92 using Tapatalk

 

[Alpha Knife Supply]

The 400 series stainless is magnetic 300 series should not be magnetic.

Some 300 series will attract a magnet just a little. Nothing like 400 series stainless steel sticks to a magnet.

Chuck

 

[Busto]

Some 300 series will attract a magnet just a little. Nothing like 400 series stainless steel sticks to a magnet.

Chuck

True...all those years at NASA working with Stainless you carried a PTFE covered magnet (beaker stirring magnet) for a quick reference check on material that some how lost their material certs and were usually put on a separate rack outside of bonded storage used for fixtures and non-critical mock ups.