Don Hanson, Damascus blade colouring help needed, please

F

Frank Niro

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Sep 10, 2000
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Don, I enjoy your folders so very much. I sure would appreciate, and I'm sure many others would too, your proceedure for the "colouring" you place on your blades and bolsters. Thanks. Frank
 
Hmmm, is it a very short etch, and do you have an addition step to protect or set that finish? Thanks again, Frank
 
Don, do you then rub it down with very fine steel wool or sand paper and cover it in oil to "set" it? I have being leaving mine for several hours in a solution of just water and baking soda right after etching and then going over with some oil. I don't want to be bothering you but I'm hoping to do more in this manner rather than colouring with heat. Thanks again.
Thanks for the input Karl. You are another great maker that really knows what it`s all about ! Frank
 
Frank, I rinse with water, go over the damascus good with windex, rinse again then dry and oil, or wax. I do rub lightly with 1500+ grit paper after etching. No steel wool or anything soft, as that will pull more dark out of the low spots. Some of my damascus gets a light buff, some just a rub, sometimes another few minutes in the etch. Depends on what it looks like. There is no single recipe for this stuff. :)
 
You certainly do it right ! I am acquainted with that this time I will try this but last time I just did that ! Thank you again ! This will certainly help give me more room to do. Frank
 
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I hang most of my pw blades in a pot of water saturated with baking soda and boil for afew minutes. Take 'em out, wipe off and oil while still hot with WeaponShield. It sets the colors and I'm ready to go.
 
Don, when you sand the high spots, do you use a hard backing to support the sandpaper so it doesn't dip into the low spots?
 
Patrice Lemée;11714519 said:
Don, when you sand the high spots, do you use a hard backing to support the sandpaper so it doesn't dip into the low spots?
Click to expand...

Patrice, I just use my hand and don't press down very hard.
 
Thanks Don, I did the same but used 2500 grit so the paper might have been too flexible. I'll give 1500 a try.
 
After I hot-blue my blades, I sand the bluing off the 15N20 with a semi-hard backer and 3000 grit.

Here's one right out of the bluing tank:

BFf1.jpg


And this is after 3000 sanding.

I realize you may not be hot-bluing, but the effect is similar.

BFg1.jpg
 
I thank you all ! This is the information I was looking for. I will try the boiling in water and baking soda as well. Thanks Pat for asking about the "backing" thing. Frank
 
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