Here you go. You are going to get many differing opinions on the subject. Many prefer the older models for various reasons, nostalga being one of them.
In my opinion, the newer models with the radiused handles and bolsters are by far the most comfortable in actual use. The resin impregnated laminated handle material "should" be more impervious to moisture due to the way its constructed and is very handsome. The 420HC in the newer versions is a great and highly respected blade steel that is far easier in my opinion to sharpen than the 440C for the average user with less than expert sharpening skills.
However, I see that you didn't ask for opinions, just facts, so here's what you asked for:
"112 Spec Sheet
Introduced May, 1972 as the “little brother” to the very popular #110 Folding Hunter.
• Folding rear lockback.
• 3.25” Stainless steel blade, hollow ground.
• Brass bolsters and frame.
• All other specifications are included in the following variation descriptions.
CATEGORY I: 1972
VERSION I:
• Mark side blade stamp, BUCK, USA
• Black Micarta inlays
• 440C Stainless steel blade
• Two small brass inlay rivets, 1/16” diameter
• Stainless steel rocker rivet
• Brass spacer/spring holder
VERSION II:
• Same as Version I, but spacer/spring holder changed to stainless steel.
CATERGORY II: 1972-1974
VERSION I:
• Mark side blade stamp, BUCK, 112, USA
• Stainless Steel rocker rivet
• 440C Stainless steel blade
• Black Micarta inlays
• Two, small brass inlay rivets
• Stainless steel spacer/spring holder
VERSION II:
• Same as Version I, but inlays changed to Sequa Wood
VERSION III:
• Same as Version I, but inlays changed to Macasar ebony.
CATEGORY III: 1974-1980
VERSION I:
• Mark side blade stamp, BUCK, *112*, USA
• Stainless steel rocker rivet
• Stainless steel spacer/spring holder
• Macasar ebony inlays
• 440C Stainless steel blade
• A single dot on each side of the model number tang stamp indicate an internal change in the shape of the blade tang.
• Two, small brass inlay rivets
VERSION II:
• Same as Version I, but inlay rivets now number four.
VERSION III:
• Same as Version I, but inlay rivets now number three.
VERSION IV:
• Same as Version I, but inlay rivets number three, and are larger, measuring 1/8” in diameter
CATEGORY IV: 1980-1981
VERSION I:
• Mark side stamp, BUCK, *112**, USA
• Stainless steel rocker rivet
• Stainless steel spacer/spring holder
• Three, large brass inlay rivets
• Macasar ebony inlays
• 440C Stainless steel blade
• The third dot added after the model number on the tang stamp indicates the design modification involving the addition of a bushing to the hinge pin.
VERSION II:
• Same as Version I, but the nail notch was added to the spine of the blade.
VERSION III:
• Same as Version II, but handles and bolsters have slightly radiused (hand radiused) edges. No radius of thumb depression area of rear bolster where lock bar is accessed.
CATEGORY V: 1981-1986
VERSION I:
• Mark side blade stamp, BUCK, **112**, USA
• Stainless steel rocker rivet
• Stainless steel spacer/spring holder
• Three, large brass inlay rivets
• Fully radiused handles and bolsters introduced, but some production still used previous hand radiusing.
• Macasar ebony inlays
• 425 Modified stainless steel balde
• Fourth dot added after the model number on the tang stamp indicates the design modification involving the change of blade steel to 425 Modified stainless steel.
1986 TO PRESENT VARIATIONS:
• Dots no longer used in the model number of the tang stamp. Rather, a year mark is used after the model number which indicates the year of manufacture. The only exception is for the year 2000, when the model number was completely left off the tang stamp, and an anvil was put in its place.
• In about 1981, the finger grooved handle was introduced.
• In 1994, the blade steel was changed to 420 HC stainless steel
• In ???? , the handle inlays were changed to a wood grain laminate material.
This article covers primarily standard factory production Folding Rangers. Many other variations exist that were made as special order, Custom Shop, Limited Edition, and as employee service awards. They involve the use of a variety of materials for handle inlays, different blade steels and the use of nickel silver for the frame and bolsters. David Yellowhorse designs of the Folding Ranger exist. It is not uncommon to come across a Folding Ranger, or Folding Hunter, that has had its frame, handles and bolsters radically thinned out by the use of a belt sander and then polishing. Many a BUCK employee actually did this to their personal knife. It is rumored that it was done to make pocket carry lighter since wearing the knife in a sheath on one’s belt in a machine shop could prove to be dangerous. “Thinning” out of 110’s and 112’s became popular during the 1970’s. One could even find articles in sporting/science/motorcycle publications that detailed how to make the modifications.
SHEATHS
The Folding Ranger has always been sold with a sheath. The earliest knives had sheaths made of two pieces of black leather sewn together, with a belt loop sewn on the back. Typical pouch design sheaths. BUCK was stamped on the top flap, and BUCK was stamped across the snap which secured it. The earliest sheaths had no model number markings on them. They were slimmer, and the top piece of leather constructing the pouch was cur higher on the frame of the knife. In addition, the belt loop was sewn just below the top of the closed flap.
Subsequent sheaths were also two piece black leather. They were wider. BUCK was still stamped on the flap, and on the snap. “112” was stamped on the rear of the sheath, below the bottom of the belt loop. The top piece of the leather pouch was cut lower on the frame of the knife, making it easier to grip the knife to remove it. The top of the belt loop was sewn very high on the back of the sheath, usually with its top being above the top of the closed sheath’s flap. My personal theory is that BUCK, who at the time was sewing its own sheaths, using the same belt loop for both the Folding Hunter and the Folding Ranger.
Brown leather sheaths were introduced with the finger grooved model in 1988.
Later model knives saw sheaths still constructed of leather, black for standard models and brown for the finger grooved version. Still two piece, but the top piece of leather constructing the pouch was cut higher on the knife’s frame, the belt loop was sewn down lower on the back of the sheath, and BUCK was stamped both on the flap, and all the way around the diameter of the snap. Current manufacture sheaths are leather, fold-over designs with one stitch line, an uneven flap and a brass snap with BUCK stamped all the way around its diameter. The new BUCK logo is stamped on the flap.
Other sheaths are possible. Examples include; natural colored leather, custom “holster” style sheaths, flaps stamped with different names that were included with knives manufactured as special orders, and cordura nylon.
BOXES
All Folding Rangers up to approximately 1988 came in the old style yellow boxes. I have also heard their color described as tan, or cream colored. Early on they were a two piece design. Later they became a one piece design with a flap closure.
Subsequent manufactured knives came in a variety of boxes including black and green/tan. Standard cardboard boxes, with opening flaps at both ends. Current manufactured knives come in a white box with highlights of red, yellow, blue and green. The different colors represent BUCK’S merchandising system identifying the type of knife by the color. Some current knives have boxes that are yellow with BUCK KNIVES written all over them in black lettering.
Folding Rangers also have been sold in plastic clam packs.
The boxes have always been packed with paperwork. That paperwork has included warranty information and registration, “Use and Care” instructions, and the famous “Message from Al BUCK”, which recognizes GOD as the Senior Partner of BUCK KNIVES INC.
